How to Build a REAL Bomber Jacket (Full 3-Hour Flight Jacket Course)

Full Transcript

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f93tayHUJJI

[00:00] I've wanted to build this sewing pattern.
[00:01] I've wanted to build this sewing pattern for a long time.
[00:04] It's not just another bomber jacket.
[00:05] It's not just another sewing pattern.
[00:07] It's a full flight jacket system built around helping you tell your own story and paying homage to what the reason these garments were meant to be engineered in the first place.
[00:15] Hello, my name is Jack and I've been sewing for the last 10 years.
[00:20] Over the last year, I've been building modern sewing patterns in hopes to make sewing feel more familiar for the next generation.
[00:27] Modernizing old systems and helping people create the garments they've always wanted to.
[00:31] The Aero system is a modular flight jacket framework inspired by the MA1, MA2, and cold weather aviation garments.
[00:38] Engineered to teach structure, not just assembly.
[00:40] This isn't about copying one singular jacket.
[00:42] It's about understanding why the sleeves curve forward, why the body is cropped, why the ribbon controls volume instead of removing it, and why pilots needed space before fashion ever got involved.
[00:55] In this video, I'm going to take you through one complete construction path from drafted panels to finished Aero
[01:00] from drafted panels to finished Aero Classic jacket, breaking down not just what I'm doing, but why I'm doing it this way.
[01:06] In this build, we're focusing specifically on the Aero Classic.
[01:08] We'll look at classic versus the rough cut build.
[01:13] Modular pocket systems, neck architecture, insulation logic, and structure creates silhouette.
[01:19] By the end, you won't just have seen a jacket come together.
[01:23] You'll understand the architecture behind it.
[01:25] And by the way, if you are interested in exploring any other pathway that isn't shown in this video, there are two additional tutorials available.
[01:33] One built out of Italy with my co-designer Gio sewing in the streets in collaboration with Neki and the other built by a good friend of mine called Made by Macko.
[01:41] He takes you through his spin on it, too.
[01:43] There's a lot of depth here.
[01:45] The goal isn't speed, it's clarity.
[01:47] If you stick around, I'll show you how to build your own version without losing the engineering that made these garments iconic in the first place.
[02:02] Hello everybody and welcome back to a brand new video.
[02:07] In today's video, I'm going to teach you how to make the arrow jacket.
[02:10] I hope you enjoyed the brand new intro showcasing the history and what we're sort of trying to do here with this pattern.
[02:16] I've got the two A4 patterns right here.
[02:18] I'm going to take you through the pages and the modularity and all the different sort of things you can do with these two patterns, the point of two PDFs, and then I'm going to very roughly show you how to cut your size, and then we'll move on to the actual construction, which I've already done over here.
[02:34] So, there is a little bit of pre-production that needs to happen before we fully start making a bomber jacket, and that is cutting out all of the pattern piece.
[02:42] This is my very own pattern.
[02:44] Me and my co-designer, Gio, have worked super super hard to create this.
[02:48] As the intro says, we're trying to create patterns that feel more sort of modern and new and sort of push away all that rubbish and all the old sort of sewing patterns and deliver amazing projects for you guys to jump straight into.
[03:00] If you're brand new at sewing and you're using a machine like this, then you can still make both of
[03:04] this, then you can still make both of these jackets.
[03:06] And me and Gio are kind of living proof for this.
[03:08] We just went to Italy and made the Arrow rough cut,
[03:11] which is up there, on a domestic machine, just to prove that with minimal tools, you can build this jacket.
[03:15] So, if you're brand new to sewing, you can jump straight in with the classic.
[03:17] Watch this tutorial because I'm only going to take you through the Aero Classic, this pattern right here in this video.
[03:24] And then, uh, there is an additional two videos which will be linked below.
[03:29] One of them is traveling through Italy.
[03:31] You can follow that completely and understand how to make the arrow rough cut or you can watch Max made by Maco.
[03:36] He has another tutorial which is the community sort of tutorial on the page and you can watch that tutorial and sort of understand how to do the ribnit collar and just he basically takes you on his spin of the pattern.
[03:49] Anyway, let's dive into this.
[03:51] I'm going to show you the pages and then we'll get straight to work.
[03:57] So before we jump and dive right into the construction and before we show you the
[04:05] construction and before we show you the pages, I just wanted to let you know
[04:06] pages, I just wanted to let you know that there is a few different formats
[04:08] that there is a few different formats and some of them might get confusing.
[04:10] and some of them might get confusing. There is the A4 tiled format which
[04:13] There is the A4 tiled format which basically you can print off the pattern
[04:14] basically you can print off the pattern yourself and then go through all of the
[04:16] yourself and then go through all of the different instruction pages and then at
[04:18] different instruction pages and then at the end you can see that there is tiled
[04:21] the end you can see that there is tiled pages to stick together. That is in A4
[04:24] pages to stick together. That is in A4 and there is also a US letter format.
[04:26] and there is also a US letter format. There's a size difference between A4 and
[04:28] There's a size difference between A4 and US letter. Or alternatively, there is an
[04:31] US letter. Or alternatively, there is an A0 you can print out yourself. You can
[04:34] A0 you can print out yourself. You can go to a copy or a print shop and print
[04:36] go to a copy or a print shop and print the large format A Z size yourself. All
[04:39] the large format A Z size yourself. All of them files, the A4, the US letter,
[04:41] of them files, the A4, the US letter, and the A0 included in the digital
[04:44] and the A0 included in the digital downloads. If you're interested in
[04:46] downloads. If you're interested in getting me to print it for you, I now
[04:48] getting me to print it for you, I now have a large format A Z printer in the
[04:51] have a large format A Z printer in the studio where I'm printing all of the
[04:53] studio where I'm printing all of the physical copies and shipping them out to
[04:55] physical copies and shipping them out to you. I think it's more positive if you
[04:57] you. I think it's more positive if you choose the second option and get me to
[04:59] choose the second option and get me to print it for you. Mainly because it is
[05:01] print it for you. Mainly because it is five sheets of A0 paper or if you're
[05:04] five sheets of A0 paper or if you're doing the A4 obviously right here it
[05:06] doing the A4 obviously right here it shows you the assembly map of what you will create.
[05:11] So this is around 100 pages of A4 paper.
[05:14] So yeah, getting me to print it five sheets of A shipped directly to your door is a little bit more expensive than if you pay for the digital download.
[05:20] However, the digital download might cause you a little bit of stress or getting me to ship it for you, you know, might be a little bit too expensive for you.
[05:28] Basically, the decision is yours.
[05:30] You can either choose to get me to print it, ship it, or you can download the files and it has all of the files.
[05:35] You can choose which one you want to print and jump into.
[05:38] The A0 is definitely easier.
[05:44] This is what the pattern pages should look like.
[05:46] And I'm basically just going to take you through the first sort of few pages explaining the whole story of this bomber jacket and why we are doing this.
[05:53] Essentially, as I mentioned, there is two pattern sheets.
[05:55] There is the Aero Classic and the Aero Rough Cut edition.
[06:00] So, this right here is the Aero Rough Cut.
[06:02] It has all the paneling under here.
[06:04] It also has on the back, which is super
[06:06] It also has on the back, which is super super nice.
[06:08] It has this pleat that runs all the way down the middle of the jacket and then the yolk, which is basically the bottom of it detached.
[06:14] And it has these sort of tabs here which is super nice too.
[06:16] I love the Aero rough cut.
[06:18] It was a design that me and Gio made and this just perfectly represents what I love about like rough cut and the paneling and the pocket details and all that sort of thing.
[06:29] So that is that pattern.
[06:31] So you can kind of see this as being the easier version and this being the slightly harder version.
[06:35] But realistically both these patterns have tutorials.
[06:37] It's more of a design choice rather than a skill level.
[06:40] So, you can jump into either jacket.
[06:42] Whichever one takes your fancy, you can jump into.
[06:44] But we're going to just focus on this one today, which is the Arrow Classic.
[06:46] And I'm just going to take you through the pages real quick and basically just describe to you what we're trying to do with these patterns.
[06:49] There's a contents page.
[06:51] There's an intent and approach page.
[06:52] So, basically, we're we're taking you through the system of building a original like heritage inspired bomber jacket, an actual bomber jacket.
[06:57] There's
[07:07] jacket, an actual bomber jacket.
[07:09] There's a lot of reproductions out there that are not too good.
[07:11] They kind of slim down the fit and they just sort of take away what the history of the jacket is.
[07:15] A lot of the fast fashion brands tend to do that.
[07:17] So, we're basically trying to keep the heritage and the sort of, you know, original design ideas of why an MA1 bomber jacket was created alive.
[07:23] So, it essentially goes through the idea that like the volume and the cold weather means for different designs in the jacket and everything is functional within what we're about to do.
[07:36] It says you won't be alone.
[07:37] So it basically goes through all the different tools that nothing is mandatory.
[07:39] You can build this how you want.
[07:41] Support is built in.
[07:43] You know, you can take it slow and use this pattern as a learning object.
[07:45] The flight jacket evolutions.
[07:47] This page just goes through what jackets we have been inspired from.
[07:50] The A2 flight jacket, the lever A2, the original 1940s, the N2B fishtail hood jacket, the MA1, and then the later on MA2 flight jacket with the collar.
[08:03] And then obviously after that it turns into the fashion.
[08:06] And then now
[08:08] Turns into the fashion.
[08:10] And then now we've got the aero jacket system which is just been released.
[08:12] Obviously you've got it.
[08:13] Yeah. Basically takes you through the system of all of these jackets put together.
[08:16] This is the volume silhouette and fit logic.
[08:18] It basically goes through the idea of why the ribbing is important.
[08:22] Control volume during like sitting curved arms for you know being able to be in a cockpit for a long period of time and have your arms stretched out to hold the controls.
[08:31] And then it basically shows you down here like a modern slim reproduction and why they're rubbish versus an old functional MA1.
[08:38] This goes through the neck systems.
[08:41] So if you're interested, all of the different pattern pieces are integrated into the pattern.
[08:44] You can do a rib knit, which is the MA1.
[08:47] You can do the insulated collar, which is the MA2, or you can do the fishtail hood, which is the N2B.
[08:53] And yeah, it basically just goes through all of this.
[08:55] You can read these pages.
[08:56] I won't go through and bore you.
[08:58] This page basically goes through the fixed structure of the jacket and what doesn't change which is the overall shape of a bomber jacket.
[09:03] And then this is the modular systems on the right which basically say you can do whatever
[09:09] which basically say you can do whatever you want through the design process.
[09:11] you want through the design process.
[09:11] Pocket systems.
[09:11] You got the MA2 pockets.
[09:14] Pocket systems.
[09:14] You got the MA2 pockets.
[09:14] You got the inner lining pockets, the sleeve pockets, the welt pockets.
[09:16] You got the inner lining pockets, the sleeve pockets, the welt pockets.
[09:18] sleeve pockets, the welt pockets.
[09:18] All of this is included in the pattern and you can do what you want.
[09:21] this is included in the pattern and you can do what you want.
[09:21] There is quilting and insulation systems.
[09:23] can do what you want.
[09:23] There is quilting and insulation systems.
[09:23] So, I would be showing you through the different quilting densities, but in this tutorial, we're just going to focus on the open quilting, this gives it a bit more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:25] and insulation systems.
[09:25] So, I would be showing you through the different quilting densities, but in this tutorial, we're just going to focus on the open quilting, this gives it a bit more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:27] showing you through the different quilting densities, but in this tutorial, we're just going to focus on the open quilting, this gives it a bit more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:27] quilting densities, but in this tutorial, we're just going to focus on the open quilting, this gives it a bit more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:28] quilting densities, but in this tutorial, we're just going to focus on the open quilting, this gives it a bit more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:28] but in this tutorial, we're just going to focus on the open quilting, this gives it a bit more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:30] tutorial, we're just going to focus on the open quilting, this gives it a bit more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:30] we're just going to focus on the open quilting, this gives it a bit more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:32] the open quilting, this gives it a bit more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:32] this gives it a bit more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:34] more movability, but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:34] but the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:36] dense you make your quilting, the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:36] the more sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:38] sort of, you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:38] you know, warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:38] warmer your jacket's going to be.
[09:38] Size measurements.
[09:39] going to be.
[09:39] Size measurements.
[09:39] Obviously, you've got your measurement table.
[09:40] Obviously, you've got your measurement table.
[09:40] This will be on your pattern yourself.
[09:42] table.
[09:42] This will be on your pattern yourself.
[09:42] You can read this and jump in where it works for you.
[09:44] yourself.
[09:44] You can read this and jump in where it works for you.
[09:44] I'm making a large in this video.
[09:47] where it works for you.
[09:47] I'm making a large in this video.
[09:47] materials.
[09:50] large in this video.
[09:50] materials.
[09:50] This goes through all of the outer shell, but I recommend stuff like, you know, nylon, polyester.
[09:51] goes through all of the outer shell, but I recommend stuff like, you know, nylon, polyester.
[09:51] but I recommend stuff like, you know, nylon, polyester.
[09:54] I recommend stuff like, you know, nylon, polyester.
[09:54] polyester.
[09:54] I'm using a wax polyester that I got in Rome in Italy for this video.
[09:57] polyester.
[09:57] I'm using a wax polyester that I got in Rome in Italy for this video.
[09:57] And then the inner lining, you want to find sort of like a lightweight polyester.
[09:59] that I got in Rome in Italy for this video.
[09:59] And then the inner lining, you want to find sort of like a lightweight polyester.
[09:59] I'm using a sort of like a velour type thing just because it's all I've got in the studio.
[10:01] video.
[10:01] And then the inner lining, you want to find sort of like a lightweight polyester.
[10:01] I'm using a sort of like a velour type thing just because it's all I've got in the studio.
[10:02] want to find sort of like a lightweight polyester.
[10:02] I'm using a sort of like a velour type thing just because it's all I've got in the studio.
[10:02] And I think that
[10:05] polyester.
[10:05] I'm using a sort of like a velour type thing just because it's all I've got in the studio.
[10:05] And I think that
[10:08] I'm using a sort of like a velour type thing just because it's all I've got in the studio.
[10:08] And I think that
[10:10] I've got in the studio.
[10:10] And I think that the orange will work really really nice with the brown.
[10:14] You've got your hardware.
[10:14] So, main zipper, pocket zipper, snap fasteners, optional upgrades.
[10:17] This goes through everything you could include in this jacket.
[10:22] Shows you the length of the zipper, too.
[10:25] So, all of the different sizes and the length of the main zipper that you'll need.
[10:28] Tools, notions, and my pick.
[10:30] So, obviously, like the thread, the sewing machine, doesn't matter.
[10:34] And then presser foot, and then QR build support.
[10:36] So, down here, I put a little QR code.
[10:38] You can go and check that out.
[10:39] It basically takes you through the different materials I've referred to you based off where you are in the world.
[10:45] Print stick cut guide.
[10:46] I'm not going to take you through this.
[10:48] If you're confused about how to tile my pages together, then scan this QR code.
[10:52] It does not butt the pages up like this.
[10:55] The pages overlap.
[10:58] But if you want more details, scan the QR code.
[11:00] Pattern basics.
[11:03] Every single pattern, if you're using the tiled or the A0 version, every single pattern is sewn at 1 over4 in
[11:10] Single pattern is sewn at 1 over 4 in seam allowance.
[11:12] So a/4 of an inch seam allowance.
[11:14] You basically want to keep that throughout the whole pattern unless you're doing the top hem of a pocket or you're doing something that needs a flat fell seam, which there isn't many of them in this pattern.
[11:24] Don't add extra seam allowance when cutting.
[11:26] It's already included.
[11:28] This is another really important one.
[11:30] You don't add seam allowance.
[11:31] For example, you've got your pattern over here.
[11:34] You're cutting directly on the line that you're choosing for your chosen size.
[11:38] You're not adding extra seam allowance.
[11:40] You're cutting directly on the line.
[11:42] Next, there is the assembly map.
[11:44] This goes through the pages and how they tile.
[11:47] It basically goes numerically down and alphabetically across.
[11:49] So, A1 all the way to N1 and then A2 all the way to N2.
[11:56] You just follow this guide and then you should have the full pattern printed and stuck together.
[11:58] Finally, there is the pattern glossery.
[12:02] This goes through everything you're going to see in this pattern.
[12:03] Basically, cut two mirrored means that your good sides of your fabric are facing together.
[12:07] So when we
[12:11] fabric are facing together.
[12:13] So when we turn the fabric outside in, then you turn the fabric outside in, then you basically have a sewn together piece.
[12:16] So basically have a sewn together piece.
[12:17] So cut two mirrored is probably the thing that you're going to see a lot.
[12:19] I always use the term front facing or good sides together, but that will be used a lot in this tutorial.
[12:22] It basically just means your front side and then your other front side or your sleeve and then your other sleeve.
[12:27] That is your pattern glossery.
[12:29] You can read over that.
[12:30] It basically just shows you what pieces are what.
[12:32] And then this is where your tiling starts.
[12:34] So that is your Aero Classic and both pages on the patterns are exactly the same with the Aero rough cut and the Aero Classic.
[12:36] They're both the exact same.
[12:39] But what I have done is I have basically just got an A Z right here that I'm just going to show you one little thing before we get into the full tutorial of construction.
[12:41] I basically printed out the five sheets of A0 paper and I cut my desired size.
[12:43] So, at the top you've got your size guides, an extra small all the way up to 3XL.
[12:45] And they are coded by different dotted and dashed and solid lines.
[12:47] I'm cutting this
[13:12] Dashed and solid lines.
[13:12] I'm cutting this one right here, which is my large.
[13:14] So, one right here, which is my large.
[13:14] So, I'm following this line right here, here.
[13:17] I'm following this line right here, here in the middle.
[13:19] From the inside of your garment, you know the extra small.
[13:21] Small, medium, large, which is the one I'm cutting, and then the rest is XL, D.
[13:24] XL, triple XL.
[13:26] So, you've got all your sizes covered here.
[13:29] Again, cut directly on the line.
[13:31] Don't cut extra seam allowance and do all that with your fabric.
[13:34] This is your pattern pieces.
[13:36] It's five pages.
[13:37] It is an in-depth pattern, but if you choose to not want to use certain parts of the pockets, you only need to print the base body parts and then you can design whatever you want.
[13:40] But if you're jumping in with me, I have basically cut all my fabric already.
[13:41] Remember where it says stuff like cut to mirrored, you're basically cutting two mirrored.
[13:44] These are pocket flaps.
[13:45] And then obviously where it says cut one, you're cutting one.
[13:47] And you're doing all of that for the outer shell and the lining.
[13:48] And now we're going to pick up where we're starting the construction.
[13:51] Two more things.
[13:53] This is some really, really nice heavyduty
[14:12] some really, really nice heavyduty ribbing.
[14:15] I've put a link to this down on the QR resources, which is on that tools, materials, and hardware page.
[14:19] This is really nice.
[14:21] It It has really quick shipping to the UK.
[14:24] I'm not sure where exactly they're based.
[14:25] to think they're based somewhere in the UK, but if you're in Europe, I would recommend buying this because it's proper bomber jacket, military grade ribbing.
[14:30] The second thing I'll say is when you're choosing your main zipper for your bomber jacket, make sure you go for something that is quite heritage base.
[14:39] This is a reproduction of a Talon zip and it has that super nice brass feel to it.
[14:44] The zipper is super super nice.
[14:47] The tape on the zipper is super wide, which is nice when you're sewing it together.
[14:51] Make sure you're going for like a super nice zip because when you're making a jacket that's meant to sort of replicate that bomber jacket feel, you don't want to just make a crazy looking jacket and then sort of halfass it on hardware.
[15:03] So, I'm using a Talon zipper.
[15:06] This is a reproduction of a Talon zipper, but it's still super super nice.
[15:11] So, yeah, good ribbing, good zipper, good outer shell
[15:13] ribbing, good zipper, good outer shell fabric.
[15:15] There should be some options on fabric.
[15:15] There should be some options on the QR resources.
[15:18] Now, let's get to the QR resources.
[15:18] Now, let's get to construction.
[15:24] So, I've laid everything out on the table so it all makes sense to me.
[15:28] I'm sort of just going to run you through very briefly what each panel does, what we're going to start sewing first.
[15:34] And, you know, and then when we get to construction on each of the categories of things that we are doing, say we're going to focus on the arms or we're going to focus on the back and the front or the facings, then I can kind of explain what's going on with all that different stuff.
[15:47] So, we're going to start with sewing the lining.
[15:50] And this is quilted.
[15:53] It has quilting on the underneath.
[15:54] I would recommend when you're making a jacket like a bomber, try get some thick, not too heavy, but thicker sort of fabric for the outer shell.
[16:01] And then for the lining, I would go for a really thin polyester and then a 4 to 6 oz wading.
[16:09] That's what I would recommend mainly because it when it you know you have that heavy outer shell,
[16:14] know you have that heavy outer shell, the thin inner lining and then that 4 to
[16:17] the thin inner lining and then that 4 to 6 oz wading in the middle which is sewn
[16:19] 6 oz wading in the middle which is sewn to the lining.
[16:21] Then it all sort of fills itself out and you have a really sort of
[16:23] itself out and you have a really sort of heavy bomber like the one that I made in
[16:26] heavy bomber like the one that I made in Italy.
[16:27] This is going to be the exact same as the one I made in Italy, but I'm
[16:29] same as the one I made in Italy, but I'm going to do a hood for this one.
[16:31] I need to cut the hood panel pieces out.
[16:33] I haven't done that yet cuz I was going to
[16:34] haven't done that yet cuz I was going to do a rib knit around the neck, but Max
[16:37] do a rib knit around the neck, but Max has stolen that idea and he's doing that
[16:39] has stolen that idea and he's doing that for his tutorial, which you can go and
[16:40] for his tutorial, which you can go and check out over here.
[16:42] Basically, I've got very minimal fabric left over cuz this
[16:44] very minimal fabric left over cuz this is leftover fabric from that jacket up
[16:46] is leftover fabric from that jacket up there.
[16:49] So, yes, we're going to focus on the lining first.
[16:50] I'm going to show you how to implement the facings and do the
[16:52] how to implement the facings and do the quilting.
[16:53] And then we're going to get into building the outer shell of the
[16:55] into building the outer shell of the jacket together, which shouldn't be too
[16:57] jacket together, which shouldn't be too long.
[16:59] I'm going to show you how to integrate the pockets with the quilting.
[17:02] integrate the pockets with the quilting.
[17:04] They're kind of like insulated pocket.
[17:06] And then we will get on to the main construction.
[17:07] construction. Putting the outer lining with the outer shell, constructing the
[17:10] with the outer shell, constructing the hood, putting the zipper in with the zip
[17:12] hood, putting the zipper in with the zip cover, and then attaching it all
[17:14] cover, and then attaching it all together with the bottom ribbing.
[17:16] together with the bottom ribbing and then the sleeve cuffs.
[17:18] then the sleeve cuffs.
[17:18] And we're basically just going to show you the whole process, how to make the jacket.
[17:22] Again, if you don't find what you need in this video, go watch the other tutorials.
[17:25] I take you through the different processes in Italy, and Max takes you through some of the other processes, too.
[17:31] But let's just jump right in cuz it's about time we start.
[17:38] So, so the pattern pieces you're going to need for the inner lining are obviously your front panel, your other front panel, which should be the opposite mirrored one.
[17:49] You've got your back panel, and then you've got your two big sleeves, and then you've got your two small sleeves.
[17:52] And then we are going to show you how to connect the facings.
[17:58] These facings are really, really useful.
[18:00] I would very recommend adding the facings.
[18:02] Well, you kind of don't have a choice because we built the pattern that way, but basically the facings help the zip not get caught on the inner lining.
[18:10] They also just make it a little bit more cleaner on the inside when you're opening the jacket.
[18:13] It's also easier to
[18:15] opening the jacket.
[18:18] It's also easier to implement your zipper to the same fabric as your outer shell.
[18:20] We've built this with a facing that runs all the way from the bottom round the neckline.
[18:22] So, that is these three panels right here.
[18:25] But we'll get to them in a minute.
[18:27] We can throw them to the side at the moment.
[18:29] And we're going to focus on quilting this.
[18:31] This is the quilting density.
[18:33] So, what I'm going to do is I'm basically going to focus on one of the pieces.
[18:35] I think I'm going to first focus on the back piece cuz it's the biggest one to quilt, which is this one right here.
[18:37] And we're basically going to run some diamond stitching all the way across this piece of fabric that basically molds it perfectly together with the inside of the insulation.
[18:39] What I have done when I was cutting the pattern pieces is I basically cut them out at the same time.
[18:40] So, the insulation was underneath, the lining fabric was on top, and then I've basically just cut it out perfectly.
[18:42] Throw some pins in.
[18:45] Now, we're going to mark out the diamond quilting.
[18:47] We're going to do like a very like sort of low density quilting for this because we need the mobility.
[18:49] It's
[19:16] this because we need the mobility.
[19:18] It's more of a fashion piece.
[19:18] It doesn't need to be too, you know, crazily sort of dense with the how warm the jacket is and stuff like that.
[19:24] We're going to focus on quilting.
[19:26] This is quite self-explanatory, but the idea is you want to grab yourself a ruler and a tape measure.
[19:32] And we're basically going to start our first sort of diamond by starting at the top of the side seam.
[19:39] It would really help if you had a dissolvable pen.
[19:42] Because the idea of this is we're going to draw these lines in with this wax just like this.
[19:47] And then we're going to stitch these lines down.
[19:50] The reason we got the tape measure is so we can sort of measure out where the next diamond's going to be.
[19:54] So, I'm going to do them probably around like 3 and 1/2 in away.
[19:58] So, for this, I'm just going to mark another 3 and 1/2 in.
[20:01] And then I'm just going to go across this 3 and 1/2 in.
[20:03] And then we can sort of match them up with the ruler afterwards.
[20:11] And it what's positive about this is that I'm using wax.
[20:13] If you use chalk, I always find that it's an absolute
[20:16] always find that it's an absolute nightmare to take the chalk off the
[20:20] nightmare to take the chalk off the actual garment itself. But with wax, you
[20:22] actual garment itself. But with wax, you can literally just hit it with a steam
[20:23] can literally just hit it with a steam and then it comes straight off, which is
[20:25] and then it comes straight off, which is positive.
[20:42] Once you've quilted one direction, or
[20:44] Once you've quilted one direction, or not quilted, but once you've sort of
[20:45] not quilted, but once you've sort of marked out where your quilting is going
[20:46] marked out where your quilting is going to be one direction, you're then going
[20:48] to be one direction, you're then going to go the complete opposite. So, you're
[20:50] to go the complete opposite. So, you're just going from the other side seam,
[20:53] just going from the other side seam, marking your first line, and then just
[20:55] marking your first line, and then just marking 3 and 1/2 in is what I'm
[20:57] marking 3 and 1/2 in is what I'm marking. But you could do yours denser
[20:59] marking. But you could do yours denser or wider or none at all. You could just
[21:02] or wider or none at all. You could just do some wavy lines, and it does the
[21:04] do some wavy lines, and it does the exact same thing. It's quilting. It's
[21:06] exact same thing. It's quilting. It's all quilting, but I'm just trying to
[21:07] all quilting, but I'm just trying to make this one a bit more historic to the
[21:09] make this one a bit more historic to the main MA1 and MA2 jacket. So, yeah, we're
[21:11] main MA1 and MA2 jacket. So, yeah, we're going to carry on quilting this with our
[21:13] going to carry on quilting this with our pen and just marking out our quilt
[21:15] pen and just marking out our quilt lines, and then we will start sewing it.
[21:18] lines, and then we will start sewing it. I've got the arms and the main body to
[21:20] I've got the arms and the main body to do. So, we're probably going to cut
[21:22] do. So, we're probably going to cut through this until we get to the end cuz
[21:25] through this until we get to the end cuz it's quite a long process.
[21:35] So, I am over here stitching all of this
[21:39] So, I am over here stitching all of this together. The way you want to do it is
[21:41] together. The way you want to do it is you essentially just want to follow the
[21:43] you essentially just want to follow the lines that you marked. And what I like
[21:45] lines that you marked. And what I like to do is I start with one line, sort of
[21:48] to do is I start with one line, sort of head all the way to the end, and then
[21:50] head all the way to the end, and then sew around a little bit. Start with
[21:52] sew around a little bit. Start with another line, and you should be close to
[21:54] another line, and you should be close to another line, and then just keep going
[21:56] another line, and then just keep going all of the lines. And then at the end,
[21:57] all of the lines. And then at the end, you just close it off round the sides.
[21:59] you just close it off round the sides. But when you close it off, you just want
[22:01] But when you close it off, you just want to do quite a small seam allowance. I'm
[22:03] to do quite a small seam allowance. I'm using this like felt velour sort of
[22:05] using this like felt velour sort of fabric. As you can see, it uh frays
[22:08] fabric. As you can see, it uh frays quite easy, so I'm making a tiny bit of
[22:10] quite easy, so I'm making a tiny bit of a bigger seam allowance. But you want to
[22:11] a bigger seam allowance. But you want to make very small seam allowance around
[22:13] make very small seam allowance around the outside once you've sewn along the
[22:16] the outside once you've sewn along the lines to close up the quilting. And
[22:18] lines to close up the quilting. And whilst I'm doing that, let me introduce
[22:20] whilst I'm doing that, let me introduce you. I've got Eloise from the Keystone
[22:22] you. I've got Eloise from the Keystone Denims helping me film today, which is
[22:24] Denims helping me film today, which is really good. She's behind the camera.
[22:26] really good. She's behind the camera. And when we've got tedious work like
[22:28] And when we've got tedious work like this right now, she's helping me draw
[22:30] this right now, she's helping me draw out the lines so it's easier for me to
[22:32] out the lines so it's easier for me to sew.
[22:48] So, whilst you're quilting, I just
[22:51] So, whilst you're quilting, I just wanted to mention a few things. So, I've
[22:52] wanted to mention a few things. So, I've got a little tool and basically it's
[22:54] got a little tool and basically it's this. You might have one, you might not.
[22:57] this. You might have one, you might not. I bought it off Amazon and basically it
[22:59] I bought it off Amazon and basically it connects to the back of the sewing foot
[23:00] connects to the back of the sewing foot and then it keeps a guide for the
[23:02] and then it keeps a guide for the quilting. Mine doesn't go out too far,
[23:04] quilting. Mine doesn't go out too far, so I'm not actually going to use this.
[23:06] so I'm not actually going to use this. So, I've just drawn my lines, but all
[23:07] So, I've just drawn my lines, but all you're doing is you're, as I mentioned,
[23:09] you're doing is you're, as I mentioned, stitching across. If you've got thick
[23:11] stitching across. If you've got thick fabric like this, thicker than normal
[23:13] fabric like this, thicker than normal polyester, then you can get away with
[23:15] polyester, then you can get away with just stitching the lines as you go and
[23:17] just stitching the lines as you go and then closing up the outside. Or you can
[23:19] then closing up the outside. Or you can close out the outside first with that
[23:21] close out the outside first with that small seam allowance that I mentioned.
[23:23] small seam allowance that I mentioned. But if you've got thinner fabric and
[23:25] But if you've got thinner fabric and you're doing this with like some super
[23:26] you're doing this with like some super thin polyester, then I recommend
[23:29] thin polyester, then I recommend probably doing the outside first. And
[23:31] probably doing the outside first. And then when you get to doing the inside,
[23:32] then when you get to doing the inside, I'll do an example of what you should do
[23:34] I'll do an example of what you should do cuz your fabric might bunch up quite a
[23:36] cuz your fabric might bunch up quite a bit. So as you're going along, you just
[23:38] bit. So as you're going along, you just want to be pulling it apart
[23:41] want to be pulling it apart and just pulling it apart as you're
[23:42] and just pulling it apart as you're going along. A good alternative to this
[23:45] going along. A good alternative to this is you can get a sewing foot which has a
[23:46] is you can get a sewing foot which has a wheel on the bottom and it sort of sits
[23:48] wheel on the bottom and it sort of sits your foot slightly higher and leaves a
[23:51] your foot slightly higher and leaves a tiny bit of a gap and then it just means
[23:52] tiny bit of a gap and then it just means the roller foot sort of works with the
[23:55] the roller foot sort of works with the feed dogs and as you go along it sort of
[23:57] feed dogs and as you go along it sort of doesn't pucker the fabric. But if you
[23:59] doesn't pucker the fabric. But if you don't have that, then you can kind of
[24:01] don't have that, then you can kind of just pull the fabric out the way.
[24:04] just pull the fabric out the way. Make sure it's not bunching. It's quite
[24:05] Make sure it's not bunching. It's quite nice on this velour, especially the
[24:07] nice on this velour, especially the color thread that we've got. Even though
[24:08] color thread that we've got. Even though it gets slightly lost in the fabric, but
[24:10] it gets slightly lost in the fabric, but yeah, carry on all the way around. When
[24:12] yeah, carry on all the way around. When you get to an end, what I like to do is
[24:15] you get to an end, what I like to do is just stop sewing, make sure the needle
[24:17] just stop sewing, make sure the needle is in the fabric, and then you can just
[24:18] is in the fabric, and then you can just sort of make your way up,
[24:21] sort of make your way up, stop, change direction again,
[24:24] stop, change direction again, make your way down.
[24:26] make your way down. And it is a really really simple process
[24:28] And it is a really really simple process to quilt.
[24:36] Then any gaps that you have left after
[24:38] Then any gaps that you have left after doing that kind of technique I just
[24:39] doing that kind of technique I just showed you, you can just sort of close
[24:40] showed you, you can just sort of close up and go once more round. It won't hurt
[24:42] up and go once more round. It won't hurt as long as that seam allowance is quite
[24:43] as long as that seam allowance is quite small.
[24:49] And then you should have something that
[24:51] And then you should have something that looks a little bit like that. I'm using
[24:52] looks a little bit like that. I'm using thicker fabric, so this quilting won't
[24:55] thicker fabric, so this quilting won't come out as sort of like puffed up as
[24:57] come out as sort of like puffed up as you would if you were using a little bit
[24:59] you would if you were using a little bit heavier insulation, thinner fabric. But
[25:01] heavier insulation, thinner fabric. But I'm really really happy with this cuz
[25:03] I'm really really happy with this cuz it's going to be super super nice when
[25:04] it's going to be super super nice when you're wearing it. The velour is super
[25:06] you're wearing it. The velour is super smooth.
[25:19] So, we've just finished quilting all of
[25:21] So, we've just finished quilting all of the panel pieces, and I think it looks
[25:22] the panel pieces, and I think it looks really, really nice. This sort of burnt
[25:24] really, really nice. This sort of burnt orange fabric is so nice, and the
[25:27] orange fabric is so nice, and the quilting works really, really well. We
[25:28] quilting works really, really well. We managed to find some really nice orange
[25:30] managed to find some really nice orange thread. I was going to use brown. We
[25:32] thread. I was going to use brown. We tried it, it didn't work very well. And
[25:34] tried it, it didn't work very well. And then we have this sort of like more
[25:35] then we have this sort of like more burnt stuff. I've used two sort of bits
[25:38] burnt stuff. I've used two sort of bits of velour. I found them in a scrap store
[25:40] of velour. I found them in a scrap store for like I think it was like 50p a
[25:42] for like I think it was like 50p a meter, which is crazy. It's like
[25:43] meter, which is crazy. It's like remnants of a company that's local to us
[25:46] remnants of a company that's local to us called like Limwood Fabrics. It's like a
[25:48] called like Limwood Fabrics. It's like a curtain shop. Anyway, we're going to
[25:50] curtain shop. Anyway, we're going to focus in on these two front panels right
[25:53] focus in on these two front panels right now. And I'm going to show you how to
[25:55] now. And I'm going to show you how to attach the front facings onto them. So,
[25:58] attach the front facings onto them. So, you should have two that are opposing
[26:00] you should have two that are opposing each other. So, they sort of, you know,
[26:02] each other. So, they sort of, you know, mirror each other perfectly. And we're
[26:04] mirror each other perfectly. And we're basically going to grab a front facing.
[26:06] basically going to grab a front facing. And I'll show you first on this side.
[26:08] And I'll show you first on this side. So, we're going to focus in on these two
[26:10] So, we're going to focus in on these two panels right here. We've got our center
[26:12] panels right here. We've got our center front facing, and we have our front
[26:14] front facing, and we have our front lining piece. Basically, you can see
[26:16] lining piece. Basically, you can see that this curve of the front facing is
[26:19] that this curve of the front facing is the exact same curve as the lining. What
[26:21] the exact same curve as the lining. What you want to do is we basically just want
[26:23] you want to do is we basically just want to good sides together, put the fabric,
[26:25] to good sides together, put the fabric, and then we want to run a stitch so this
[26:27] and then we want to run a stitch so this curve matches up. And then when you turn
[26:29] curve matches up. And then when you turn it the right side, this will be sewn
[26:32] it the right side, this will be sewn perfectly together. And then we can
[26:34] perfectly together. And then we can finish it off with a nice top stitch
[26:35] finish it off with a nice top stitch that runs all the way down. I've already
[26:37] that runs all the way down. I've already got the orange in this machine, so I
[26:39] got the orange in this machine, so I think a really nice orange top stitch
[26:41] think a really nice orange top stitch would be super nice all the way down
[26:42] would be super nice all the way down this. And then we're going to do the
[26:44] this. And then we're going to do the exact same process for the other side.
[26:45] exact same process for the other side. So when you're stitching this front
[26:47] So when you're stitching this front facing down, obviously make sure it is
[26:49] facing down, obviously make sure it is the good sides of the fabric facing each
[26:52] the good sides of the fabric facing each other. It's kind of hard for me to see,
[26:54] other. It's kind of hard for me to see, but this is waxed on the inside and not
[26:56] but this is waxed on the inside and not on the outside. So I know that's kind of
[26:58] on the outside. So I know that's kind of my indication. And we just want to make
[27:00] my indication. And we just want to make sure we're stitching this at 1 over4
[27:02] sure we're stitching this at 1 over4 seam allowance. If I move this out the
[27:04] seam allowance. If I move this out the way, you can see that that 1 over4 seam
[27:07] way, you can see that that 1 over4 seam allowance is right here. It's the 1/4 of
[27:10] allowance is right here. It's the 1/4 of an inch number one. And your machine
[27:12] an inch number one. And your machine should have a guide for that, too. We're
[27:15] should have a guide for that, too. We're going to stitch all the way down.
[27:26] So, I'm just now going to top stitch all
[27:29] So, I'm just now going to top stitch all the way along with the loose fabric
[27:32] the way along with the loose fabric facing the front facing. Sort of facing
[27:35] facing the front facing. Sort of facing the inside center front and then the top
[27:37] the inside center front and then the top stitching is on the actual front facing
[27:39] stitching is on the actual front facing itself. So, we've stitched all of this
[27:42] itself. So, we've stitched all of this down now, and I'm now going to run a top
[27:44] down now, and I'm now going to run a top stitch with the uh top stitch running
[27:47] stitch with the uh top stitch running along the inside center front facing.
[27:50] along the inside center front facing. It's going to be running along the
[27:51] It's going to be running along the facing and not folded the other way. All
[27:54] facing and not folded the other way. All the loose fabric should be facing the
[27:56] the loose fabric should be facing the middle rather than folding it the other
[27:58] middle rather than folding it the other way. So, not that way. It needs to be
[28:00] way. So, not that way. It needs to be facing that way. And then stitch all the
[28:02] facing that way. And then stitch all the way down.
[28:09] Now we have added the center front
[28:11] Now we have added the center front facing to the lining panel. And if it is
[28:15] facing to the lining panel. And if it is a little bit longer on the top or on the
[28:17] a little bit longer on the top or on the bottom, then feel free to just cut it
[28:19] bottom, then feel free to just cut it off. It won't make too much of a
[28:20] off. It won't make too much of a difference. It might make your neckline
[28:23] difference. It might make your neckline slightly smaller, but it will match up
[28:25] slightly smaller, but it will match up perfectly. I just kind of did the seam
[28:26] perfectly. I just kind of did the seam allowance slightly wrong. So, if you do
[28:28] allowance slightly wrong. So, if you do do the seam allowance slightly wrong,
[28:29] do the seam allowance slightly wrong, you go a bit too close to the edge of
[28:31] you go a bit too close to the edge of the fabric or a bit too far in, then you
[28:33] the fabric or a bit too far in, then you might have to trim off like a millimeter
[28:34] might have to trim off like a millimeter or something or a few millimeters.
[28:36] or something or a few millimeters. Anyway, this is now perfect. I'm going
[28:38] Anyway, this is now perfect. I'm going to do this again for the other side. So,
[28:40] to do this again for the other side. So, you're pretty much just doing the exact
[28:42] you're pretty much just doing the exact same procedure again. And then we're
[28:44] same procedure again. And then we're going to focus in on making this pocket
[28:46] going to focus in on making this pocket in the center of the lining. And then
[28:50] in the center of the lining. And then that is it. We can then move on to the
[28:52] that is it. We can then move on to the back sort of facing. And then that'll be
[28:54] back sort of facing. And then that'll be our lining all completed. Maybe I'll
[28:55] our lining all completed. Maybe I'll show you how to do the arms afterwards.
[28:57] show you how to do the arms afterwards. In your pattern piece, you should have a
[29:00] In your pattern piece, you should have a inside inner lining pocket and it should
[29:03] inside inner lining pocket and it should be 6 and 1/2 in by 8 in. What I like to
[29:06] be 6 and 1/2 in by 8 in. What I like to do is I like to cut the exact same panel
[29:08] do is I like to cut the exact same panel out of the lining. And then I just like
[29:11] out of the lining. And then I just like to make it a slight bit longer at the
[29:13] to make it a slight bit longer at the bottom down here. You can see that it's
[29:15] bottom down here. You can see that it's just a slight bit longer than the outer
[29:16] just a slight bit longer than the outer shell fabric. The reason this is is
[29:19] shell fabric. The reason this is is because if you put the good sides
[29:21] because if you put the good sides together just like that, we're going to
[29:23] together just like that, we're going to stitch along this top part right here.
[29:26] stitch along this top part right here. And that is going to be the top hem of
[29:27] And that is going to be the top hem of the inside of the pocket. And then when
[29:29] the inside of the pocket. And then when you flip it the right sides up, for
[29:31] you flip it the right sides up, for example, and you flip it back around
[29:32] example, and you flip it back around once you've made that stitch with this
[29:34] once you've made that stitch with this excess, you can pull the outside fabric
[29:37] excess, you can pull the outside fabric down slightly. And then you can hit that
[29:39] down slightly. And then you can hit that with a press and you should have a bit
[29:40] with a press and you should have a bit of orange that's revealing at the top.
[29:42] of orange that's revealing at the top. And I just think if you're looking at
[29:44] And I just think if you're looking at this over here, when you sort of
[29:46] this over here, when you sort of implement the pocket into the garment,
[29:48] implement the pocket into the garment, it will have a super nice sort of
[29:49] it will have a super nice sort of burning red sort of texture on the top
[29:51] burning red sort of texture on the top of the pocket. Just like this. Yeah,
[29:53] of the pocket. Just like this. Yeah, let's do that. And then we'll get the
[29:55] let's do that. And then we'll get the iron ready and sort of iron down the
[29:57] iron ready and sort of iron down the piece. Once you have that little bit
[29:59] piece. Once you have that little bit that goes over and you've top stitched
[30:01] that goes over and you've top stitched it all around, you can actually just run
[30:03] it all around, you can actually just run a really small stitch all the way around
[30:05] a really small stitch all the way around the square two to close off the inside
[30:08] the square two to close off the inside lining with the outer shell. And then
[30:10] lining with the outer shell. And then you want to hit it with the press all
[30:11] you want to hit it with the press all the way around. Do that about a/4 of an
[30:13] the way around. Do that about a/4 of an inch. And then you can stitch it into
[30:16] inch. And then you can stitch it into the final garment over there. So I'm
[30:18] the final garment over there. So I'm going to do the top like the just the
[30:20] going to do the top like the just the seam to close this up in orange. And
[30:21] seam to close this up in orange. And then I'm going to switch around to
[30:22] then I'm going to switch around to brown. And then we'll do everything in
[30:25] brown. And then we'll do everything in the tutorial. Most of it is going to be
[30:26] the tutorial. Most of it is going to be brown now just to match the outside
[30:28] brown now just to match the outside shell. Let's do this. I'm just going to
[30:30] shell. Let's do this. I'm just going to throw two pins in here to secure that in
[30:31] throw two pins in here to secure that in place.
[30:37] Done that seam. You should have
[30:38] Done that seam. You should have something that looks a bit like this.
[30:39] something that looks a bit like this. I'm just literally just going to fold
[30:41] I'm just literally just going to fold that over. You can see the bottoms match
[30:43] that over. You can see the bottoms match up perfectly. And then if you press that
[30:45] up perfectly. And then if you press that down with the sort of seam underneath
[30:48] down with the sort of seam underneath the outer shell fabric, it will leave
[30:50] the outer shell fabric, it will leave this super nice sort of like top orange
[30:53] this super nice sort of like top orange edge
[31:02] because I am the master of never ironing
[31:04] because I am the master of never ironing anything in these tutorials. I'm not
[31:06] anything in these tutorials. I'm not going to iron this either. So, I'm
[31:09] going to iron this either. So, I'm literally just folding and then I'm just
[31:10] literally just folding and then I'm just going to throw some pins in and then I
[31:12] going to throw some pins in and then I will take the pins out and then run it
[31:14] will take the pins out and then run it through the lining. This is an inside
[31:16] through the lining. This is an inside sort of like pocket. So, to be honest, I
[31:19] sort of like pocket. So, to be honest, I don't really think it needs a good old
[31:21] don't really think it needs a good old press. And there is two layers of weird
[31:23] press. And there is two layers of weird fabric that doesn't iron. Obviously, you
[31:25] fabric that doesn't iron. Obviously, you can't iron balor and you can't iron
[31:27] can't iron balor and you can't iron waxed polyester very well. So, I'm just
[31:30] waxed polyester very well. So, I'm just going to leave it like that. And then
[31:31] going to leave it like that. And then I'm going to take the pins out and sort
[31:32] I'm going to take the pins out and sort of match it up perfectly here. Sort of
[31:34] of match it up perfectly here. Sort of lay it down. take the pin out and then
[31:36] lay it down. take the pin out and then run it back through. And you can add a
[31:38] run it back through. And you can add a pin back through like that.
[31:45] This isn't a very professional way of
[31:47] This isn't a very professional way of doing this. I'm sorry, guys. I kind of
[31:49] doing this. I'm sorry, guys. I kind of just sometimes don't even bother ironing
[31:52] just sometimes don't even bother ironing things. And yeah, like I said, this is
[31:54] things. And yeah, like I said, this is kind of a weird fabric. You wouldn't
[31:55] kind of a weird fabric. You wouldn't really iron this fabric, I don't think.
[31:57] really iron this fabric, I don't think. But there we have it. That is the sort
[31:59] But there we have it. That is the sort of patch pocket implemented. And it has
[32:02] of patch pocket implemented. And it has that super nice orange bit at the top
[32:04] that super nice orange bit at the top with the top stitching. But now we've
[32:05] with the top stitching. But now we've hemmed this, we're just going to run a
[32:07] hemmed this, we're just going to run a top stitch all the way around this
[32:09] top stitch all the way around this pocket. And as we go, we can kind of
[32:10] pocket. And as we go, we can kind of just like account for the bits where
[32:12] just like account for the bits where we've kind of pinned a little bit off
[32:14] we've kind of pinned a little bit off and just square off that bottom edge of
[32:16] and just square off that bottom edge of the pocket. Make it super clean. So
[32:18] the pocket. Make it super clean. So yeah, let's do this top stitch. Now,
[32:25] this is a last minute little thing that
[32:27] this is a last minute little thing that I'm going to do. I'm going to add a
[32:29] I'm going to do. I'm going to add a little welted pocket just onto this
[32:31] little welted pocket just onto this little edge here on the other side. I
[32:33] little edge here on the other side. I think it should go quite deep, but I'm
[32:34] think it should go quite deep, but I'm not going to teach you how to do a
[32:36] not going to teach you how to do a welted pocket. I'm probably going to say
[32:37] welted pocket. I'm probably going to say it at this part of the video so it's
[32:39] it at this part of the video so it's clear for the rest of the video. I have
[32:41] clear for the rest of the video. I have this video right here, and it is the
[32:43] this video right here, and it is the welted pocket tutorial. It's a very like
[32:46] welted pocket tutorial. It's a very like complex procedure to put into like a one
[32:48] complex procedure to put into like a one minute sort of process of a tutorial.
[32:51] minute sort of process of a tutorial. So, I'm going to leave you to if you
[32:52] So, I'm going to leave you to if you want to join me with the welted pocket
[32:54] want to join me with the welted pocket on this side of my front panel or any of
[32:57] on this side of my front panel or any of the other welted pockets that I may put
[32:58] the other welted pockets that I may put on the outside of the garment, you can
[33:00] on the outside of the garment, you can go and watch this tutorial right here.
[33:02] go and watch this tutorial right here. It's the welted pocket tutorial. Takes
[33:04] It's the welted pocket tutorial. Takes you through the full process and then
[33:06] you through the full process and then you can come back and join me. But I'm
[33:07] you can come back and join me. But I'm going to do it with my outside fabric on
[33:10] going to do it with my outside fabric on my lining. So it sort of contrasts it to
[33:12] my lining. So it sort of contrasts it to match how we've got this going on at the
[33:15] match how we've got this going on at the moment where it's like orange and then
[33:18] moment where it's like orange and then your outside sort of waterproof on on
[33:20] your outside sort of waterproof on on top of the quilting and then obviously
[33:23] top of the quilting and then obviously the welt will be the same. If you want
[33:25] the welt will be the same. If you want to join me, go watch the video, come
[33:26] to join me, go watch the video, come back after, and then you should have a
[33:28] back after, and then you should have a wel with pocket two. So I just finished
[33:31] wel with pocket two. So I just finished the pocket on the inside and I'm really
[33:34] the pocket on the inside and I'm really liking this sort of overlap of the
[33:37] liking this sort of overlap of the lining of the pocket cuz it's the
[33:38] lining of the pocket cuz it's the different fabric. It's the different
[33:40] different fabric. It's the different orange to the orange I used for the main
[33:43] orange to the orange I used for the main lining, this velour stuff. So, that is
[33:45] lining, this velour stuff. So, that is super nice. And then I just completed
[33:47] super nice. And then I just completed this welted pocket here, which is also
[33:49] this welted pocket here, which is also super super nice, too. So, that is the
[33:51] super super nice, too. So, that is the two main front lining pieces fully
[33:53] two main front lining pieces fully completed. And we can move these to the
[33:55] completed. And we can move these to the side. This is a bit of an odd way to do
[33:57] side. This is a bit of an odd way to do stuff. I never really start with the
[33:59] stuff. I never really start with the lining, but we are in this video, so why
[34:01] lining, but we are in this video, so why not, eh? We're going to move on to the
[34:03] not, eh? We're going to move on to the back part now. And again, the back part
[34:05] back part now. And again, the back part is just super simple. So, it's just
[34:07] is just super simple. So, it's just another facing. And we're just going to
[34:09] another facing. And we're just going to sew this from the bottom. 1 over4 stitch
[34:13] sew this from the bottom. 1 over4 stitch all the way around. And then it should
[34:14] all the way around. And then it should open up. Then you can top stitch it
[34:16] open up. Then you can top stitch it again. The sides of this facing right
[34:18] again. The sides of this facing right here, they will match with the sides of
[34:22] here, they will match with the sides of your front just like that. You can see
[34:24] your front just like that. You can see it sort of glides all the way. So, yeah,
[34:26] it sort of glides all the way. So, yeah, let's finish this back facing and then I
[34:29] let's finish this back facing and then I will actually move on to the sleeves and
[34:32] will actually move on to the sleeves and then we will go with all the
[34:33] then we will go with all the construction of the main outer shell. I
[34:36] construction of the main outer shell. I also just wanted to say that off camera
[34:39] also just wanted to say that off camera I cut two more pattern pieces which are
[34:41] I cut two more pattern pieces which are these two right here. It is the the
[34:44] these two right here. It is the the fishtail top hood piece and I cut the
[34:48] fishtail top hood piece and I cut the fishtail side hood. I basically just did
[34:52] fishtail side hood. I basically just did the same quilting for them where I did a
[34:54] the same quilting for them where I did a normal one. And when I did that normal
[34:56] normal one. And when I did that normal outer shell one, I just marked where
[34:58] outer shell one, I just marked where that zipper was on the pattern piece so
[35:01] that zipper was on the pattern piece so it matches up perfectly as you can see
[35:03] it matches up perfectly as you can see there. So, I marked where the zipper is
[35:05] there. So, I marked where the zipper is going to go. I've got a zipper ready
[35:07] going to go. I've got a zipper ready that is cut down to size. If you are
[35:10] that is cut down to size. If you are interested in what size it is, I will
[35:12] interested in what size it is, I will put it in the pattern, but it is 20 in
[35:14] put it in the pattern, but it is 20 in exactly. And then I just basically did
[35:17] exactly. And then I just basically did two of the outer shell and two of the
[35:19] two of the outer shell and two of the lining. We'll get to the hood a little
[35:21] lining. We'll get to the hood a little bit later, so we don't need to jump into
[35:23] bit later, so we don't need to jump into that right now. I'll show you how to
[35:25] that right now. I'll show you how to attach that fish tail sort of zip to the
[35:27] attach that fish tail sort of zip to the main center piece and then how to stitch
[35:30] main center piece and then how to stitch it all together. So, for now, we can
[35:32] it all together. So, for now, we can sort of throw that to the side and we
[35:34] sort of throw that to the side and we will focus on stitching this back piece
[35:37] will focus on stitching this back piece with the facing and then we'll move on.
[35:40] with the facing and then we'll move on. So, let's do it.
[35:54] Just like your center front facing,
[35:56] Just like your center front facing, we're just going to make sure the top
[35:58] we're just going to make sure the top stitching is folded under towards the
[36:01] stitching is folded under towards the outside and not the inside of your back
[36:04] outside and not the inside of your back panel. And then your top stitching is on
[36:06] panel. And then your top stitching is on the actual facing piece itself.
[36:14] So now you can see we have attached that
[36:16] So now you can see we have attached that facing to the back panel. You can see it
[36:18] facing to the back panel. You can see it runs all the way down that center front
[36:21] runs all the way down that center front piece of the zipper. The zipper would be
[36:24] piece of the zipper. The zipper would be here. And it runs all around that
[36:25] here. And it runs all around that neckline. All of the lining, the back
[36:28] neckline. All of the lining, the back piece, the front piece, the other front
[36:30] piece, the front piece, the other front piece. We can actually move on to
[36:32] piece. We can actually move on to something else. So, I'm just going to
[36:33] something else. So, I'm just going to put these to the side for now. And I
[36:35] put these to the side for now. And I think I will show you the arms next. I
[36:38] think I will show you the arms next. I wanted to show you the arms with the
[36:39] wanted to show you the arms with the outer shell, but I do think it'll be
[36:41] outer shell, but I do think it'll be easier to show you it with the lining.
[36:44] easier to show you it with the lining. Mainly because it's easier for me to
[36:45] Mainly because it's easier for me to show you what the front sort of facings
[36:48] show you what the front sort of facings look like, the good sides versus the bad
[36:50] look like, the good sides versus the bad sides. Whereas if I showed you on my
[36:52] sides. Whereas if I showed you on my normal fabric, it looks the same on both
[36:54] normal fabric, it looks the same on both sides. So I'm going to show you how to
[36:57] sides. So I'm going to show you how to construct the arms. Now for the lining,
[36:59] construct the arms. Now for the lining, I'm going to explain the volume and how
[37:01] I'm going to explain the volume and how the arms work and what gives them the
[37:03] the arms work and what gives them the volume within the pattern. And then we
[37:05] volume within the pattern. And then we will construct an arm together. When it
[37:07] will construct an arm together. When it gets to the arms on the outer shell,
[37:09] gets to the arms on the outer shell, I'll very lightly show you how to do it.
[37:11] I'll very lightly show you how to do it. But I'm not going to give you a full
[37:13] But I'm not going to give you a full tutorial cuz this will be the tutorial
[37:15] tutorial cuz this will be the tutorial for the arm pieces. Essentially, you
[37:17] for the arm pieces. Essentially, you should have two pieces for each arm. So
[37:20] should have two pieces for each arm. So this would be obviously your right arm
[37:22] this would be obviously your right arm and then these two pieces over here
[37:23] and then these two pieces over here would be the left arm. So what gives it
[37:26] would be the left arm. So what gives it the volume? Me and Gio chose to do this
[37:29] the volume? Me and Gio chose to do this sleeve a tiny little bit baggier. But
[37:31] sleeve a tiny little bit baggier. But what gives it the volume is this curve
[37:34] what gives it the volume is this curve right here. This curve gives it the
[37:36] right here. This curve gives it the intentional volume within the aero
[37:38] intentional volume within the aero jacket or that sort of flight jacket
[37:40] jacket or that sort of flight jacket volume. You're basically going to stitch
[37:42] volume. You're basically going to stitch this long side of the small panel
[37:45] this long side of the small panel together with the long side of the
[37:47] together with the long side of the bigger panel. And you're going to do
[37:48] bigger panel. And you're going to do that good sides facing together. One
[37:51] that good sides facing together. One over four seam allowance. When you turn
[37:52] over four seam allowance. When you turn it the other way, because these curves
[37:55] it the other way, because these curves are facing each other, so they're
[37:58] are facing each other, so they're basically opposing each other, you can
[37:59] basically opposing each other, you can see that they don't line up perfectly.
[38:01] see that they don't line up perfectly. They have these little gaps up here and
[38:04] They have these little gaps up here and down here. When these two are sewn
[38:06] down here. When these two are sewn together and then they are turned
[38:08] together and then they are turned outside in, you can see that it gives it
[38:09] outside in, you can see that it gives it a little bit of a bagginess. And
[38:11] a little bit of a bagginess. And actually the fabric sort of sits higher
[38:14] actually the fabric sort of sits higher just kind of like that if that makes
[38:15] just kind of like that if that makes sense. And then that gives it your
[38:17] sense. And then that gives it your bagginess. This small panel sits on the
[38:20] bagginess. This small panel sits on the back of your arm. And then this when it
[38:22] back of your arm. And then this when it connects is the bottom. So if I can show
[38:24] connects is the bottom. So if I can show you another way, it basically shows you
[38:27] you another way, it basically shows you that if you sew along the shorter edge
[38:31] that if you sew along the shorter edge of the bigger sleeve with the shorter
[38:34] of the bigger sleeve with the shorter edge of the smaller sleeve, just like
[38:35] edge of the smaller sleeve, just like that, connect them together and then
[38:37] that, connect them together and then turn it. Obviously, when they're sewn
[38:39] turn it. Obviously, when they're sewn together, it looks something like that.
[38:40] together, it looks something like that. And then when that bigger sort of longer
[38:43] And then when that bigger sort of longer edge connects too, you can see that this
[38:46] edge connects too, you can see that this would be the bottom of our sleeve. This
[38:49] would be the bottom of our sleeve. This smaller piece, this would be the back of
[38:51] smaller piece, this would be the back of our shoulder. And then that would kind
[38:53] our shoulder. And then that would kind of run. So you'd be wearing it like this
[38:56] of run. So you'd be wearing it like this with the smaller panel on the back.
[39:00] with the smaller panel on the back. Remember, this smaller panel is always
[39:02] Remember, this smaller panel is always on the back. If you sew your sleeves on
[39:05] on the back. If you sew your sleeves on incorrectly, it will basically mean that
[39:08] incorrectly, it will basically mean that like this part will be on the front. We
[39:10] like this part will be on the front. We don't want that at all. We want this
[39:11] don't want that at all. We want this part right here to be on the back of the
[39:13] part right here to be on the back of the sleeve. So, it should fit something like
[39:16] sleeve. So, it should fit something like this when you're finished with it. And
[39:17] this when you're finished with it. And then all your bagginess of this long
[39:21] then all your bagginess of this long edge right here would be underneath your
[39:24] edge right here would be underneath your arm. We don't want it on the front. So,
[39:26] arm. We don't want it on the front. So, this piece on the back and then
[39:29] this piece on the back and then obviously we're sewing them together
[39:31] obviously we're sewing them together with the long sides together and then
[39:33] with the long sides together and then the short sides together too. And
[39:35] the short sides together too. And remember, we're doing this all front
[39:36] remember, we're doing this all front facing. So, good sides together. and
[39:39] facing. So, good sides together. and then we go from there. So, I've got this
[39:41] then we go from there. So, I've got this cool little foot right here. You can
[39:44] cool little foot right here. You can detach these little things right here,
[39:46] detach these little things right here, and you can put them back on the tracks
[39:47] and you can put them back on the tracks of the sewing foot. Essentially, what
[39:50] of the sewing foot. Essentially, what this tool does is it allows me to sew on
[39:53] this tool does is it allows me to sew on top of this wading sort of polyester
[39:56] top of this wading sort of polyester material. If I did it with my normal
[39:58] material. If I did it with my normal sewing foot, then these little claws at
[40:01] sewing foot, then these little claws at the end, these little sort of ends of
[40:03] the end, these little sort of ends of your sewing foot, they would actually
[40:04] your sewing foot, they would actually get caught underneath the polyester. I
[40:07] get caught underneath the polyester. I can actually give you an example. Let me
[40:08] can actually give you an example. Let me just sew this and show you exactly what
[40:10] just sew this and show you exactly what happens. Basically, what happens is
[40:12] happens. Basically, what happens is this. That's what happens right there.
[40:15] this. That's what happens right there. You see the foot would get caught
[40:17] You see the foot would get caught underneath and it would start ripping
[40:18] underneath and it would start ripping the polyester. So, this is a really good
[40:21] the polyester. So, this is a really good tool. If you don't have something like
[40:23] tool. If you don't have something like this tool, another good way to do it
[40:26] this tool, another good way to do it would be to get some cellar tape and
[40:28] would be to get some cellar tape and wrap it around this end bit. So, it just
[40:31] wrap it around this end bit. So, it just basically extends your sewing foot out
[40:33] basically extends your sewing foot out and then you can sew. You just don't
[40:35] and then you can sew. You just don't want these bits getting caught
[40:36] want these bits getting caught underneath the polyester because it will
[40:37] underneath the polyester because it will rip it and then it'll ruin the quality
[40:39] rip it and then it'll ruin the quality of your garment.
[40:44] And now once you've finished all of that
[40:47] And now once you've finished all of that stitching on that side, you can just
[40:48] stitching on that side, you can just keep that foot on if you still have one.
[40:50] keep that foot on if you still have one. If you don't, you can just keep the
[40:52] If you don't, you can just keep the cellar tape on. And I'm just going to
[40:53] cellar tape on. And I'm just going to run a top stitch all along this with the
[40:55] run a top stitch all along this with the top stitch facing. So the fabric is
[40:58] top stitch facing. So the fabric is going under the bigger panel and your
[41:01] going under the bigger panel and your top stitch is facing the smaller arm
[41:03] top stitch is facing the smaller arm sleeve panel.
[41:17] Now because we've still got that sewing
[41:19] Now because we've still got that sewing foot on, we can actually get the shorter
[41:22] foot on, we can actually get the shorter pieces. We are going to stitch them
[41:25] pieces. We are going to stitch them together with a 1 over4 seam allowance
[41:27] together with a 1 over4 seam allowance the same.
[41:30] So, what you want to do, you've got this
[41:32] So, what you want to do, you've got this sewing foot. I've just actually swapped
[41:34] sewing foot. I've just actually swapped it back. I have this cool little
[41:36] it back. I have this cool little mechanism that sometimes works on my
[41:39] mechanism that sometimes works on my industrial. It basically allows me to
[41:41] industrial. It basically allows me to swap my feet quite easily, but it's kind
[41:44] swap my feet quite easily, but it's kind of rubbish. I need to get a better one.
[41:46] of rubbish. I need to get a better one. But anyway, I've swapped my foot back to
[41:49] But anyway, I've swapped my foot back to the usual sewing foot. Now I've swapped
[41:52] the usual sewing foot. Now I've swapped the foot round. I'm going to run a top
[41:55] the foot round. I'm going to run a top stitch down the inside of this seam that
[41:58] stitch down the inside of this seam that we have just made for the smaller
[41:59] we have just made for the smaller lengths of both panels. This can be kind
[42:02] lengths of both panels. This can be kind of a tricky process. So I would
[42:04] of a tricky process. So I would recommend just taking this super slow
[42:07] recommend just taking this super slow because it is a bit of an annoying
[42:08] because it is a bit of an annoying tedious process. You're kind of just
[42:11] tedious process. You're kind of just moving the fabric around a lot and
[42:12] moving the fabric around a lot and trying to get into this annoying
[42:14] trying to get into this annoying crevice. So as I'm top stitching, we're
[42:16] crevice. So as I'm top stitching, we're doing the exact same thing. So the
[42:18] doing the exact same thing. So the smaller panel, this smaller panel over
[42:20] smaller panel, this smaller panel over here, the top stitching is facing that
[42:22] here, the top stitching is facing that way. And the sort of loose fraying
[42:24] way. And the sort of loose fraying fabric should be underneath facing
[42:26] fabric should be underneath facing towards the bigger panel. And yeah, as I
[42:29] towards the bigger panel. And yeah, as I said, it's going to be quite tricky to
[42:30] said, it's going to be quite tricky to do this. It's very tedious. So just take
[42:32] do this. It's very tedious. So just take it super super slow as you're stitching.
[42:35] it super super slow as you're stitching. You'll need to keep pulling the fabric
[42:36] You'll need to keep pulling the fabric under so it faces the correct way so
[42:39] under so it faces the correct way so your top stitch is nice and neat.
[42:47] If you've got a domestic machine, I feel
[42:49] If you've got a domestic machine, I feel bad for you. No, it should. It's the
[42:51] bad for you. No, it should. It's the same thing. We did it the same in Italy.
[42:53] same thing. We did it the same in Italy. If you watch the Italy vlog,
[42:56] If you watch the Italy vlog, you'll know that there is never getting
[42:58] you'll know that there is never getting around this, unfortunately. It is very
[43:00] around this, unfortunately. It is very long.
[43:04] So, now we have sewn that sleeve. I
[43:06] So, now we have sewn that sleeve. I don't think there is any way of getting
[43:08] don't think there is any way of getting around the top stitch. That really
[43:10] around the top stitch. That really annoying top stitch. You don't
[43:11] annoying top stitch. You don't necessarily need to add that top stitch
[43:13] necessarily need to add that top stitch to the bottom seam. You can kind of just
[43:16] to the bottom seam. You can kind of just leave it, but it's just to add that
[43:18] leave it, but it's just to add that extra bit of niceness to your finished
[43:20] extra bit of niceness to your finished garment. Now, you can see that exactly
[43:22] garment. Now, you can see that exactly what we were talking about. The sort of
[43:24] what we were talking about. The sort of sleeve stands up on its own with that
[43:28] sleeve stands up on its own with that curved seam that we added in the pattern
[43:30] curved seam that we added in the pattern making and the drafting. So, this just
[43:33] making and the drafting. So, this just obviously adds to the idea that when
[43:34] obviously adds to the idea that when you're wearing this, again, this smaller
[43:38] you're wearing this, again, this smaller part of the sleeve is on the back and it
[43:41] part of the sleeve is on the back and it sort of gives it a bit of volume
[43:43] sort of gives it a bit of volume underneath. As you can see, we're going
[43:45] underneath. As you can see, we're going to talk you through a bit more of that
[43:46] to talk you through a bit more of that later when we get to constructing the
[43:48] later when we get to constructing the outer shell. But, we've just done one
[43:51] outer shell. But, we've just done one sleeve of our inner lining. I can throw
[43:53] sleeve of our inner lining. I can throw it with our finished panels over here.
[43:55] it with our finished panels over here. And now, off camera, I am just going to
[43:56] And now, off camera, I am just going to do the exact same thing for the other
[43:58] do the exact same thing for the other side. So, if I can explain it one more
[44:00] side. So, if I can explain it one more time. good sides facing together, one
[44:03] time. good sides facing together, one over fourth seam allowance. Turn it
[44:05] over fourth seam allowance. Turn it outside, hit it with a top stitch, and
[44:08] outside, hit it with a top stitch, and then pull all of your fabric over. Do
[44:10] then pull all of your fabric over. Do the exact same thing. So, one over
[44:11] the exact same thing. So, one over fourth, and then obviously do that
[44:14] fourth, and then obviously do that really annoying top stitch on the
[44:15] really annoying top stitch on the inside. And then we'll have two finished
[44:17] inside. And then we'll have two finished sleeves for the lining. So, yeah, as I
[44:20] sleeves for the lining. So, yeah, as I mentioned, this shorter edge right here
[44:23] mentioned, this shorter edge right here is the bottom underneath seam of your
[44:25] is the bottom underneath seam of your garment. You want to basically sew the
[44:28] garment. You want to basically sew the longer sides together first and then
[44:30] longer sides together first and then when you attach them, it'll be easier to
[44:32] when you attach them, it'll be easier to do that long top stitch all the way
[44:34] do that long top stitch all the way along. And then it gives you that sort
[44:36] along. And then it gives you that sort of finished sleeve cap that starts low,
[44:39] of finished sleeve cap that starts low, goes high, and then goes lower again.
[44:41] goes high, and then goes lower again. And then when we fold all of that over
[44:43] And then when we fold all of that over and start attaching that bottom seam,
[44:46] and start attaching that bottom seam, you can do your top stitch on this
[44:48] you can do your top stitch on this smaller panel, this smaller length sort
[44:51] smaller panel, this smaller length sort of uh side. You basically we we've
[44:53] of uh side. You basically we we've explained it all anyway, so you should
[44:54] explained it all anyway, so you should have a good understanding of what you're
[44:56] have a good understanding of what you're doing. But just to be clear, you don't
[44:58] doing. But just to be clear, you don't need that top stitch that we did on that
[45:00] need that top stitch that we did on that smaller length side. It is the bottom
[45:02] smaller length side. It is the bottom and the underneath seam of your garment,
[45:04] and the underneath seam of your garment, and this is the lining, but it is good
[45:07] and this is the lining, but it is good to add it anyway.
[45:13] So, we're now on the hood, the fishtail
[45:16] So, we're now on the hood, the fishtail hood with the incorporated zipper, which
[45:19] hood with the incorporated zipper, which sort of you can, you know, which you can
[45:20] sort of you can, you know, which you can zip open and then your two sort of sides
[45:23] zip open and then your two sort of sides of the hood should land on your
[45:25] of the hood should land on your shoulder. I am going to explain this to
[45:27] shoulder. I am going to explain this to the best of my ability. It's a little
[45:30] the best of my ability. It's a little bit tricky. I'm quite a self-taught
[45:32] bit tricky. I'm quite a self-taught designer, so I'm trying to explain all
[45:33] designer, so I'm trying to explain all of these processes to you. Sometimes the
[45:36] of these processes to you. Sometimes the terminology gets messed up, so I just
[45:38] terminology gets messed up, so I just wanted to disclaim that. But I'm going
[45:40] wanted to disclaim that. But I'm going to try and explain this to the best of
[45:41] to try and explain this to the best of my ability and hopefully you fully
[45:43] my ability and hopefully you fully understand this. This is a bit of a
[45:44] understand this. This is a bit of a weird way to construct a hood. Let's get
[45:46] weird way to construct a hood. Let's get into it. If you put your fabric pieces
[45:48] into it. If you put your fabric pieces like this, then you can work with me and
[45:51] like this, then you can work with me and sort of understand what I'm doing. Let's
[45:53] sort of understand what I'm doing. Let's explain it. So, once you've laid it out
[45:55] explain it. So, once you've laid it out like this, you should have your inner
[45:56] like this, you should have your inner lining facing the table, your outer
[45:59] lining facing the table, your outer shell facing upwards, and your zipper
[46:01] shell facing upwards, and your zipper facing down. We're going to focus on
[46:03] facing down. We're going to focus on this middle section and forget about
[46:04] this middle section and forget about these four panels for the moment. How
[46:07] these four panels for the moment. How are we going to incorporate this zipper
[46:09] are we going to incorporate this zipper so you can zip it down? This is how we
[46:12] so you can zip it down? This is how we can remove the lining and we can put
[46:14] can remove the lining and we can put this to the side for now. The way we're
[46:16] this to the side for now. The way we're going to attach this zipper is we're
[46:17] going to attach this zipper is we're going to flip it over. Once it's flipped
[46:20] going to flip it over. Once it's flipped over, we're going to stitch with a
[46:21] over, we're going to stitch with a zipper foot all the way down this side
[46:24] zipper foot all the way down this side of bit of the tape. Then once that's
[46:26] of bit of the tape. Then once that's stitched, you can then undo the zipper
[46:29] stitched, you can then undo the zipper from the top. And if you watch this very
[46:31] from the top. And if you watch this very carefully, once this bit is stitched
[46:33] carefully, once this bit is stitched down, you can then flip this bit over
[46:37] down, you can then flip this bit over double and then match the tape up with
[46:39] double and then match the tape up with the other side and then stitch that all
[46:42] the other side and then stitch that all the way down too. Basically, what this
[46:44] the way down too. Basically, what this will do is when you close the zipper,
[46:45] will do is when you close the zipper, you can see that then that would fold
[46:47] you can see that then that would fold out.
[46:49] out. Are you crazy? Ignore that blooper. The
[46:52] Are you crazy? Ignore that blooper. The zipper fell off the end. You are going
[46:54] zipper fell off the end. You are going to buy an closed end zipper for this.
[46:57] to buy an closed end zipper for this. And you're going to make sure it's 20 in
[47:00] And you're going to make sure it's 20 in long. I have an open-end zipper and it's
[47:03] long. I have an open-end zipper and it's not 20 in. I never come prepared because
[47:06] not 20 in. I never come prepared because I'm an idiot, but pretty much we're
[47:08] I'm an idiot, but pretty much we're still going to do it. It's going to be
[47:09] still going to do it. It's going to be the exact same procedure. So, we're
[47:10] the exact same procedure. So, we're going to do that. I'm going to explain
[47:12] going to do that. I'm going to explain it when I actually do it again, but
[47:13] it when I actually do it again, but we're going to basically integrate this
[47:15] we're going to basically integrate this zipper into the top panel. Then, we're
[47:18] zipper into the top panel. Then, we're going to grab this bottom underneath
[47:20] going to grab this bottom underneath lining, making sure it faces the table.
[47:23] lining, making sure it faces the table. And when that zipper is incorporated
[47:24] And when that zipper is incorporated into this outer shell fabric, we're
[47:26] into this outer shell fabric, we're going to place it on top just like that.
[47:29] going to place it on top just like that. Then we're basically going to add some
[47:31] Then we're basically going to add some pins all the way around this. And then
[47:33] pins all the way around this. And then when you flip this over, if you were
[47:36] when you flip this over, if you were sensible, like Eloise helped me with,
[47:39] sensible, like Eloise helped me with, she marked a line all the way down the
[47:41] she marked a line all the way down the center of this piece right here, this
[47:43] center of this piece right here, this inner lining center hood. Now, what this
[47:46] inner lining center hood. Now, what this line does, it means that it can
[47:48] line does, it means that it can basically match up exactly where you're
[47:50] basically match up exactly where you're cutting. But before you cut, you want to
[47:52] cutting. But before you cut, you want to mark with a pen the very bottom of the
[47:55] mark with a pen the very bottom of the zipper. And that is around this area
[47:57] zipper. And that is around this area right here. When it's integrated, it
[47:59] right here. When it's integrated, it should be a little bit higher. But we're
[48:00] should be a little bit higher. But we're marking the very bottom of the zipper by
[48:02] marking the very bottom of the zipper by putting a pin through the zip, the outer
[48:05] putting a pin through the zip, the outer shell fabric, and the lining. So then
[48:07] shell fabric, and the lining. So then when we turn this over, we know that we
[48:09] when we turn this over, we know that we can cut down this center line. And as
[48:11] can cut down this center line. And as soon as we get near the pin, we can stop
[48:14] soon as we get near the pin, we can stop cutting and then cut that triangle in
[48:16] cutting and then cut that triangle in just in there. The triangle tucks under
[48:19] just in there. The triangle tucks under the small sort of side and then all
[48:22] the small sort of side and then all these other two raw edges, they'll tuck
[48:25] these other two raw edges, they'll tuck under the zip for the side bit just like
[48:27] under the zip for the side bit just like this. They'll tuck under. I'll show you
[48:29] this. They'll tuck under. I'll show you when we do this, but I need to explain
[48:31] when we do this, but I need to explain this to you before we jump into it. Then
[48:33] this to you before we jump into it. Then you should have your zipper fully
[48:35] you should have your zipper fully integrated. And then we're going to run
[48:37] integrated. And then we're going to run this top stitch all the way round and
[48:39] this top stitch all the way round and we'll know that it's going to hit the
[48:40] we'll know that it's going to hit the outer shell fabric and the inner lining
[48:43] outer shell fabric and the inner lining fabric. But at this point, we still have
[48:46] fabric. But at this point, we still have the sides open and the bottom open, too.
[48:50] the sides open and the bottom open, too. But the zipper is just integrated into
[48:53] But the zipper is just integrated into the outer shell fabric and the lining.
[48:55] the outer shell fabric and the lining. Then we want to reintroduce our outer
[48:58] Then we want to reintroduce our outer shell side hood pieces. And we basically
[49:01] shell side hood pieces. And we basically just want to stitch them together with
[49:04] just want to stitch them together with the outer shell piece. So you want to
[49:06] the outer shell piece. So you want to run this all the way down. And you want
[49:08] run this all the way down. And you want to stitch this hood in. But we're only
[49:10] to stitch this hood in. But we're only stitching this hood onto the outer shell
[49:12] stitching this hood onto the outer shell piece. We want to do the exact same
[49:14] piece. We want to do the exact same thing for the other side, just on the
[49:16] thing for the other side, just on the outer shell piece. And then we can flip
[49:19] outer shell piece. And then we can flip this over and they should be integrated.
[49:21] this over and they should be integrated. Then we're going to do the exact same
[49:23] Then we're going to do the exact same thing for the lining. And the exact same
[49:25] thing for the lining. And the exact same thing for the other lining, side hood.
[49:27] thing for the other lining, side hood. At this point, you should pretty much
[49:29] At this point, you should pretty much have a constructed hood. The only thing
[49:32] have a constructed hood. The only thing that isn't going to be constructed is
[49:34] that isn't going to be constructed is the part that is around the face. You're
[49:36] the part that is around the face. You're going to have to manually fold this all
[49:39] going to have to manually fold this all the way round. And then we're going to
[49:40] the way round. And then we're going to hit a top stitch. Once the pins are in
[49:42] hit a top stitch. Once the pins are in that, this side area right here, this
[49:45] that, this side area right here, this zipper is going to run all the way to
[49:47] zipper is going to run all the way to the top of this side piece. Our main
[49:50] the top of this side piece. Our main zipper on our garment is going to run
[49:52] zipper on our garment is going to run all the way up to the top of this. So,
[49:55] all the way up to the top of this. So, when you're doing this top stitch all
[49:57] when you're doing this top stitch all the way around this hood and your pins
[49:59] the way around this hood and your pins have integrated and you've done that
[50:01] have integrated and you've done that manual fold, you want to start your top
[50:03] manual fold, you want to start your top stitch a little further in. And then
[50:05] stitch a little further in. And then this gives us enough space to be able to
[50:06] this gives us enough space to be able to fold this in later for our main zip. If
[50:09] fold this in later for our main zip. If that feels a little bit confusing for
[50:11] that feels a little bit confusing for you, you can just replay that little bit
[50:13] you, you can just replay that little bit of the video or you can jump right in
[50:15] of the video or you can jump right in with me right now and I'll explain as I
[50:17] with me right now and I'll explain as I go. It's very hard to explain. There is
[50:19] go. It's very hard to explain. There is a lot of sort of technicalities to this
[50:21] a lot of sort of technicalities to this because of the zipper. If the zipper was
[50:23] because of the zipper. If the zipper was not integrated into this, then we would
[50:25] not integrated into this, then we would be able to construct our outer shell
[50:27] be able to construct our outer shell hood, our inner lining hood, and then
[50:30] hood, our inner lining hood, and then we'd be able to sew them together and
[50:32] we'd be able to sew them together and then turn it inside out, top stitch it,
[50:34] then turn it inside out, top stitch it, and then it'd be done. But because we
[50:36] and then it'd be done. But because we have an opening for this hood, we want
[50:37] have an opening for this hood, we want to make sure that this is done
[50:39] to make sure that this is done correctly. So, let's let's jump into
[50:42] correctly. So, let's let's jump into this. Take it slow. Rewind the video if
[50:44] this. Take it slow. Rewind the video if you need to. And one more thing before
[50:46] you need to. And one more thing before we move on to actually showing you how
[50:47] we move on to actually showing you how to do this. If you intend to do a ribbed
[50:50] to do this. If you intend to do a ribbed neckline or an insulated collar, then
[50:53] neckline or an insulated collar, then you can go and watch the two videos.
[50:56] you can go and watch the two videos. Max's one shows you the ribbed neckline
[50:58] Max's one shows you the ribbed neckline and me and Gio in Italy show you how to
[51:01] and me and Gio in Italy show you how to do the insulated collar. So, let's dive
[51:04] do the insulated collar. So, let's dive into this. So, as you can see, it's a
[51:07] into this. So, as you can see, it's a brand new day, and I wanted to leave
[51:09] brand new day, and I wanted to leave this until the next day. It got a bit
[51:10] this until the next day. It got a bit late yesterday. So, today we're going to
[51:12] late yesterday. So, today we're going to smash out the whole jacket. I showed you
[51:14] smash out the whole jacket. I showed you how to do the lining yesterday. And
[51:16] how to do the lining yesterday. And let's focus in on the hood so we can get
[51:19] let's focus in on the hood so we can get this completed. We've just separated all
[51:20] this completed. We've just separated all the parts so I can focus just on the
[51:22] the parts so I can focus just on the installment of the zipper on the center
[51:25] installment of the zipper on the center outer shell of the hood. And then
[51:27] outer shell of the hood. And then afterwards, we will go on to how to
[51:29] afterwards, we will go on to how to construct it in with the lining. and
[51:31] construct it in with the lining. and then how to incorporate all of the
[51:33] then how to incorporate all of the different panels so we can fully make
[51:35] different panels so we can fully make the hood. Let's focus in on just this
[51:38] the hood. Let's focus in on just this part right here. You've got your zipper.
[51:39] part right here. You've got your zipper. Yours should be 20 in closed end. And
[51:43] Yours should be 20 in closed end. And yeah, how are we going to input this
[51:45] yeah, how are we going to input this into the center? Just like we said
[51:47] into the center? Just like we said yesterday, we want to flip the zip over
[51:50] yesterday, we want to flip the zip over to the left and make sure that the
[51:52] to the left and make sure that the zipper puller is facing down and your
[51:55] zipper puller is facing down and your sort of tape should be running perfectly
[51:57] sort of tape should be running perfectly alongside that line. I'm going to run a
[51:59] alongside that line. I'm going to run a stitch all the way down this right side
[52:03] stitch all the way down this right side tape for me. And this is going to be
[52:05] tape for me. And this is going to be with a zipper foot until I get to the
[52:07] with a zipper foot until I get to the very end. And what you want to do is you
[52:09] very end. And what you want to do is you kind of want to leave like a/4 in right
[52:11] kind of want to leave like a/4 in right at the end of your you sort of want to
[52:14] at the end of your you sort of want to leave a quarter in gap from the end of
[52:15] leave a quarter in gap from the end of the zipper. I've sort of makeshifted
[52:17] the zipper. I've sort of makeshifted this with a bit of hand stitching right
[52:19] this with a bit of hand stitching right there. But essentially stitch along this
[52:21] there. But essentially stitch along this with a/4 in. And then we're going to
[52:24] with a/4 in. And then we're going to show you how to flip it over and
[52:25] show you how to flip it over and integrate this so it's seamless. Let's
[52:27] integrate this so it's seamless. Let's do it.
[52:33] As I mentioned, we're just going to stop
[52:34] As I mentioned, we're just going to stop about a quarter inch from the end.
[52:39] And then you should have something that
[52:40] And then you should have something that looks a little bit like this. If we pull
[52:42] looks a little bit like this. If we pull the zipper down near to the bottom of
[52:44] the zipper down near to the bottom of the zip, we can see that it should look
[52:47] the zip, we can see that it should look like that. If you pull the camera out
[52:49] like that. If you pull the camera out just a tiny bit, just like that, then we
[52:51] just a tiny bit, just like that, then we can see that if I flip this over once,
[52:54] can see that if I flip this over once, you can start to see that that zip
[52:55] you can start to see that that zip puller is coming to the top. And then we
[52:58] puller is coming to the top. And then we just want to flip it over one more time,
[53:01] just want to flip it over one more time, just clockwise. And then we can see that
[53:04] just clockwise. And then we can see that we can start to stitch that side bit
[53:06] we can start to stitch that side bit into. And then you can see it naturally
[53:08] into. And then you can see it naturally turns the zip so it's naturally the
[53:10] turns the zip so it's naturally the right way. Um, so I'm going to stitch
[53:12] right way. Um, so I'm going to stitch all the way down this tape. And
[53:14] all the way down this tape. And obviously you can't finish this because
[53:16] obviously you can't finish this because the zipper is in the way. So I'll show
[53:18] the zipper is in the way. So I'll show you how to finish that. Obviously you
[53:20] you how to finish that. Obviously you can't zip right down. You can't stitch
[53:22] can't zip right down. You can't stitch right down cuz the zipper puller is in
[53:24] right down cuz the zipper puller is in the way there.
[53:31] So when you get all the way down, try
[53:33] So when you get all the way down, try and go as far as you can to match that
[53:35] and go as far as you can to match that other stitch mark that you made at the
[53:37] other stitch mark that you made at the bottom.
[53:39] bottom. So, what we're going to do now is from
[53:40] So, what we're going to do now is from the inside, you can see that we have
[53:42] the inside, you can see that we have just made these two lines right here.
[53:45] just made these two lines right here. So, we know if we pierce with the
[53:47] So, we know if we pierce with the scissors and cut a line all the way down
[53:49] scissors and cut a line all the way down the very center of them two lines right
[53:51] the very center of them two lines right there, we can see that when we pull the
[53:53] there, we can see that when we pull the zipper, it'll actually close up the
[53:56] zipper, it'll actually close up the zipper on the outside. So, obviously,
[53:58] zipper on the outside. So, obviously, we're cutting that and it's allowing
[54:00] we're cutting that and it's allowing each side to fold over.
[54:04] Sort of just cut as far as you can
[54:06] Sort of just cut as far as you can actually go. And then what we want to do
[54:08] actually go. And then what we want to do is close our zipper. And as I said, you
[54:10] is close our zipper. And as I said, you can see that once that zipper is closed,
[54:13] can see that once that zipper is closed, you can see that we have made that split
[54:15] you can see that we have made that split so it works as the zip opening right
[54:18] so it works as the zip opening right there. And as you can see, we have this
[54:20] there. And as you can see, we have this little bit to tackle down here. And how
[54:22] little bit to tackle down here. And how are we going to do that? What we want to
[54:23] are we going to do that? What we want to do is we actually want to carry on this
[54:27] do is we actually want to carry on this scissor cut. And we just want to cut a
[54:29] scissor cut. And we just want to cut a triangle. So if you can see here, we
[54:30] triangle. So if you can see here, we just want to cut a triangle up to this
[54:32] just want to cut a triangle up to this top point. and the same as if we could
[54:35] top point. and the same as if we could have gone as far with the other stitch.
[54:38] have gone as far with the other stitch. So, we want to cut a very equal triangle
[54:40] So, we want to cut a very equal triangle with the longer stitch you made. So,
[54:42] with the longer stitch you made. So, just cut up here and then do the same
[54:44] just cut up here and then do the same cut up here. And then we're just going
[54:45] cut up here. And then we're just going to finish off this stitching on my
[54:48] to finish off this stitching on my right.
[54:55] So, now we have cut this sort of
[54:56] So, now we have cut this sort of triangle that's facing the inwards sort
[54:59] triangle that's facing the inwards sort of part of the zipper. We can basically
[55:01] of part of the zipper. We can basically now pull it the other way. And you can
[55:03] now pull it the other way. And you can very intricately turn this zipper inside
[55:06] very intricately turn this zipper inside out. So it goes on the inside
[55:10] out. So it goes on the inside just like this. And now what you can see
[55:13] just like this. And now what you can see is that triangle has sort of made it so
[55:16] is that triangle has sort of made it so we can close up the end of that zip on
[55:19] we can close up the end of that zip on the inside. It should look like the
[55:21] the inside. It should look like the triangle is sort of facing on the
[55:22] triangle is sort of facing on the inside. So what we're going to do is
[55:24] inside. So what we're going to do is close up that triangle from the very
[55:25] close up that triangle from the very very inside. And then you can see that
[55:27] very inside. And then you can see that that will close up the zipper. Now,
[55:29] that will close up the zipper. Now, before we throw some kind of top
[55:32] before we throw some kind of top stitching throughout this panel, we're
[55:35] stitching throughout this panel, we're actually going to construct the inner
[55:36] actually going to construct the inner lining into the inside of it. And then
[55:39] lining into the inside of it. And then remember, we're going to sort of sew the
[55:41] remember, we're going to sort of sew the two side hoods to each panel afterwards.
[55:44] two side hoods to each panel afterwards. Hopefully, I'm explaining this
[55:45] Hopefully, I'm explaining this correctly. As I said, it's it's kind of
[55:47] correctly. As I said, it's it's kind of hard to explain because I'm selftaught
[55:49] hard to explain because I'm selftaught and all the terminologies get a bit
[55:51] and all the terminologies get a bit fuzzy, but essentially, we're basically
[55:54] fuzzy, but essentially, we're basically just creating a nice little opening for
[55:57] just creating a nice little opening for the zip here. And that sort of triangle
[56:00] the zip here. And that sort of triangle at the bottom is just meaning we can
[56:02] at the bottom is just meaning we can clean up the bottom of the zip down
[56:03] clean up the bottom of the zip down here. And then we're going to reference
[56:05] here. And then we're going to reference where that sort of triangle is and then
[56:07] where that sort of triangle is and then replicate it onto the lining in a minute
[56:10] replicate it onto the lining in a minute and then go from there. To make this
[56:11] and then go from there. To make this easier for ourselves, I'm literally just
[56:13] easier for ourselves, I'm literally just going to pull the fabric to the side and
[56:15] going to pull the fabric to the side and add some pins all the way down so I can
[56:17] add some pins all the way down so I can sort of reference where my top stitching
[56:19] sort of reference where my top stitching is going to be. And then we can move
[56:20] is going to be. And then we can move these pins in a minute to the right
[56:23] these pins in a minute to the right position. And you can see on one side
[56:25] position. And you can see on one side we've gone all the way down and cut that
[56:27] we've gone all the way down and cut that triangle to the end of the stitching
[56:29] triangle to the end of the stitching right here. And on the other side there
[56:30] right here. And on the other side there is a little bit more stitching to do. So
[56:32] is a little bit more stitching to do. So if you want you can just close up that
[56:34] if you want you can just close up that stitching right there. And then it will
[56:36] stitching right there. And then it will should equally then fit together. At the
[56:38] should equally then fit together. At the moment it sort of like pulls down and
[56:40] moment it sort of like pulls down and this is kind of diagonal. So we just
[56:42] this is kind of diagonal. So we just want to do the stitching to the end and
[56:43] want to do the stitching to the end and then it will pull it straight so it's
[56:45] then it will pull it straight so it's kind of neat.
[56:48] kind of neat. And as I mentioned just close off that
[56:50] And as I mentioned just close off that triangle by pulling the fabric under.
[56:52] triangle by pulling the fabric under. Then we have the triangle right here.
[56:54] Then we have the triangle right here. I'm going to grab some tweezers just to
[56:55] I'm going to grab some tweezers just to hold this nice and level. And we're just
[56:58] hold this nice and level. And we're just going to run a stitch all along.
[57:00] going to run a stitch all along. Remember, you're stitching over a metal
[57:03] Remember, you're stitching over a metal zipper here. So, you want to take it
[57:04] zipper here. So, you want to take it really slow with the stitching. You
[57:07] really slow with the stitching. You should be able to get through it, but
[57:09] should be able to get through it, but obviously be super careful.
[57:19] So, as you can see now, I just pinned
[57:21] So, as you can see now, I just pinned all of this. And as I just showed you,
[57:22] all of this. And as I just showed you, we closed off the inside of that zip. If
[57:25] we closed off the inside of that zip. If you've got a closed end zipper, then it
[57:28] you've got a closed end zipper, then it should be way easier for you to close
[57:30] should be way easier for you to close close that off. I actually had to sew
[57:32] close that off. I actually had to sew over the teeth of that zipper. But if
[57:34] over the teeth of that zipper. But if you do it really slowly, your sort of
[57:35] you do it really slowly, your sort of needle should position itself in between
[57:37] needle should position itself in between the teeth and then go through it. Just
[57:39] the teeth and then go through it. Just make sure you're not going super fast,
[57:40] make sure you're not going super fast, otherwise it'll break your needle. So,
[57:42] otherwise it'll break your needle. So, I've closed that off. I've thrown the
[57:43] I've closed that off. I've thrown the pins in it. And as I've just shown you,
[57:46] pins in it. And as I've just shown you, this is just on the outer shell. Now we
[57:48] this is just on the outer shell. Now we can reintroduce our middle sort of
[57:50] can reintroduce our middle sort of center hood lining. And we can match
[57:53] center hood lining. And we can match this up. And the way we're going to
[57:54] this up. And the way we're going to match this up is we're going to throw
[57:56] match this up is we're going to throw pins now all the way around the edge
[57:58] pins now all the way around the edge just to keep it in position with the
[58:01] just to keep it in position with the very center because this part we're
[58:03] very center because this part we're going to tackle cutting the inside line
[58:06] going to tackle cutting the inside line that corresponds with where the zipper
[58:08] that corresponds with where the zipper is. And then when we've pinned it in
[58:10] is. And then when we've pinned it in place, we can move this bottom pin. We
[58:12] place, we can move this bottom pin. We can move this so it goes through both
[58:14] can move this so it goes through both the fabric. So when we're cutting down
[58:16] the fabric. So when we're cutting down that line, we know that we're stopping
[58:18] that line, we know that we're stopping just before where that pin is a/4 in.
[58:20] just before where that pin is a/4 in. And then we're going to do the triangle.
[58:22] And then we're going to do the triangle. Tuck it in. And then we're going to add
[58:24] Tuck it in. And then we're going to add the top stitch to both panels, the top
[58:26] the top stitch to both panels, the top and the lining.
[58:30] So now you can see that I have actually
[58:33] So now you can see that I have actually pinned all the way around this just to
[58:36] pinned all the way around this just to hold it in place. We're not actually
[58:37] hold it in place. We're not actually stitching any of this down because as I
[58:40] stitching any of this down because as I showed you, we're going to attach the
[58:42] showed you, we're going to attach the side hood to the outer shell and then
[58:44] side hood to the outer shell and then the other side hood lining to the inner
[58:47] the other side hood lining to the inner lining. So, now is the part where we're
[58:50] lining. So, now is the part where we're cutting the inside. And just a really
[58:52] cutting the inside. And just a really easy, nice sort of simple thing that I
[58:54] easy, nice sort of simple thing that I did was I just pulled that pin and just
[58:56] did was I just pulled that pin and just had it so it corresponds with the inside
[58:58] had it so it corresponds with the inside of the lining. That means we know where
[59:00] of the lining. That means we know where the triangle's going to go at the end
[59:02] the triangle's going to go at the end and then we know where to stop cutting.
[59:05] and then we know where to stop cutting. So, I've got a line that goes all the
[59:07] So, I've got a line that goes all the way down the center of this. I'm going
[59:08] way down the center of this. I'm going to follow that line. If you're slightly
[59:11] to follow that line. If you're slightly off by like a millimeter, you can kind
[59:13] off by like a millimeter, you can kind of account it when you're like folding
[59:14] of account it when you're like folding and pinning afterwards. So, we are
[59:17] and pinning afterwards. So, we are literally to make this easier for
[59:18] literally to make this easier for oursel, you can just undo your zip all
[59:20] oursel, you can just undo your zip all the way down to the end. And you can
[59:22] the way down to the end. And you can actually do this from this side
[59:27] and then zip the zipper up again.
[59:30] and then zip the zipper up again. You can see we've just made our mark in
[59:32] You can see we've just made our mark in the very center. And then you can carry
[59:34] the very center. And then you can carry it on from this side.
[59:37] it on from this side. Once you get close to that pin that we
[59:39] Once you get close to that pin that we marked, then you can just cut in that
[59:42] marked, then you can just cut in that triangle. And you can be as accurate as
[59:45] triangle. And you can be as accurate as you want here.
[59:56] Now we have our triangle cut right
[59:58] Now we have our triangle cut right there. And then we have this sort of
[01:00:00] there. And then we have this sort of loose middle part all the way down. Now,
[01:00:02] loose middle part all the way down. Now, what we're going to do is we're going to
[01:00:04] what we're going to do is we're going to flip it over, undo the zipper, and you
[01:00:06] flip it over, undo the zipper, and you can see that this splits now, which is
[01:00:08] can see that this splits now, which is the split that we want for the fish tail
[01:00:10] the split that we want for the fish tail hood. It seems to work perfectly. Now,
[01:00:13] hood. It seems to work perfectly. Now, we can sort of work our way along with
[01:00:14] we can sort of work our way along with the pins. And I'm going to work my way
[01:00:17] the pins. And I'm going to work my way along just round here. And I'm going to
[01:00:19] along just round here. And I'm going to fold this lining over and then sort of
[01:00:22] fold this lining over and then sort of place this on top. And then to make it
[01:00:26] place this on top. And then to make it easier for myself, I'm going to do this
[01:00:28] easier for myself, I'm going to do this and pin from the outside because we
[01:00:30] and pin from the outside because we don't want to be sewing from the inside
[01:00:33] don't want to be sewing from the inside lining cuz then the bobbin thread will
[01:00:35] lining cuz then the bobbin thread will be on our main shell. So, I'm just going
[01:00:37] be on our main shell. So, I'm just going to work my way along and do the fold
[01:00:39] to work my way along and do the fold manually. It does take a little bit
[01:00:41] manually. It does take a little bit longer and it may seem like a bit of a
[01:00:44] longer and it may seem like a bit of a tedious process, but you know you're
[01:00:46] tedious process, but you know you're going to get it perfect in the end. So,
[01:00:48] going to get it perfect in the end. So, just take your time and work your way
[01:00:50] just take your time and work your way along with the pins. It does take a
[01:00:52] along with the pins. It does take a little bit longer than uh any other way,
[01:00:54] little bit longer than uh any other way, but you know you're going to get it
[01:00:55] but you know you're going to get it perfect. So, be patient with it.
[01:01:08] So,
[01:01:09] So, at the very bottom of your zipper,
[01:01:12] at the very bottom of your zipper, you're going to have that triangle.
[01:01:13] you're going to have that triangle. We're just going to tuck the triangle
[01:01:14] We're just going to tuck the triangle the same sort of direction as we did
[01:01:16] the same sort of direction as we did tuck the outside shell of the triangle.
[01:01:19] tuck the outside shell of the triangle. And then you can throw that pin back
[01:01:21] And then you can throw that pin back through them and it should correspond
[01:01:22] through them and it should correspond perfectly. You might have some wading
[01:01:24] perfectly. You might have some wading and some polyester sticking out. You can
[01:01:26] and some polyester sticking out. You can just make sure to be either cutting that
[01:01:28] just make sure to be either cutting that and sort of tucking it in. It might get
[01:01:30] and sort of tucking it in. It might get caught in the zipper just like mine has
[01:01:32] caught in the zipper just like mine has there. You just want to be cleaning it
[01:01:34] there. You just want to be cleaning it up and folding it in and then matching
[01:01:37] up and folding it in and then matching it with that stitch. And when you flip
[01:01:39] it with that stitch. And when you flip it back over, you can throw a pin in
[01:01:41] it back over, you can throw a pin in nice and nice and neatly.
[01:01:48] Clean that up a little bit. So you've
[01:01:50] Clean that up a little bit. So you've got the bottom triangle of the inner
[01:01:52] got the bottom triangle of the inner lining. We're just going to do the exact
[01:01:54] lining. We're just going to do the exact same thing as what we did for the outer
[01:01:55] same thing as what we did for the outer shell triangle. We're just going to tuck
[01:01:57] shell triangle. We're just going to tuck that in on itself. Make sure that is all
[01:01:59] that in on itself. Make sure that is all out the way. Make sure that there is no
[01:02:01] out the way. Make sure that there is no white sort of polyester in the way too.
[01:02:04] white sort of polyester in the way too. Make sure that it's all tucked
[01:02:06] Make sure that it's all tucked underneath. Nice and clean. And it
[01:02:09] underneath. Nice and clean. And it should correspond perfectly with the
[01:02:11] should correspond perfectly with the outside sort of triangle that you've
[01:02:13] outside sort of triangle that you've done. So you can run a pin through both
[01:02:16] done. So you can run a pin through both of them.
[01:02:21] It should match up perfectly, ready for
[01:02:24] It should match up perfectly, ready for us to stitch in a minute. So now you can
[01:02:26] us to stitch in a minute. So now you can see that we have pinned from the outside
[01:02:29] see that we have pinned from the outside and we have pinned all of the lining in
[01:02:31] and we have pinned all of the lining in place too. So now we're just going to be
[01:02:33] place too. So now we're just going to be really really careful and run a top
[01:02:35] really really careful and run a top stitch all the way along this to close
[01:02:37] stitch all the way along this to close this zipper up. And remember, all of the
[01:02:40] this zipper up. And remember, all of the pins on the outside stay there, and we
[01:02:43] pins on the outside stay there, and we don't stitch any of the outside because
[01:02:44] don't stitch any of the outside because we're still going to be connecting all
[01:02:46] we're still going to be connecting all of the side hood to the separate edges
[01:02:51] of the side hood to the separate edges separately. So, what you want to do now
[01:02:53] separately. So, what you want to do now is you want to start your stitching with
[01:02:55] is you want to start your stitching with the top stitch just around like about an
[01:02:58] the top stitch just around like about an inch and a half away from the top of
[01:03:01] inch and a half away from the top of your zipper. This is because we're going
[01:03:02] your zipper. This is because we're going to fold this over at the end. So start
[01:03:04] to fold this over at the end. So start your top stitching from about an inch
[01:03:06] your top stitching from about an inch and a half down and then run all the way
[01:03:08] and a half down and then run all the way round making sure that you can use some
[01:03:10] round making sure that you can use some tweezers or something intricate to just
[01:03:12] tweezers or something intricate to just go along and make sure all the orange is
[01:03:15] go along and make sure all the orange is in the right place as you go whilst you
[01:03:17] in the right place as you go whilst you take your pins out. Then once we get
[01:03:19] take your pins out. Then once we get round to the other end, we're just
[01:03:20] round to the other end, we're just stopping at the same around like an inch
[01:03:22] stopping at the same around like an inch and a half from the end.
[01:03:43] So, because we've stopped about an inch
[01:03:45] So, because we've stopped about an inch and a half away, we can actually fold
[01:03:47] and a half away, we can actually fold this zipper in and then fold this
[01:03:50] this zipper in and then fold this outside in. And then we're going to
[01:03:51] outside in. And then we're going to stitch that later. I'm just sort of
[01:03:53] stitch that later. I'm just sort of visually showing you that that is where
[01:03:55] visually showing you that that is where the zipper would stop. So, we can leave
[01:03:57] the zipper would stop. So, we can leave that for now. And we can actually just
[01:03:59] that for now. And we can actually just zip up what we've just sewn. And we can
[01:04:01] zip up what we've just sewn. And we can visually see that that works perfectly
[01:04:03] visually see that that works perfectly as our open fish tail part of the hood,
[01:04:06] as our open fish tail part of the hood, which is super super nice. Now, what
[01:04:08] which is super super nice. Now, what we're going to do is we're actually
[01:04:09] we're going to do is we're actually going to take all the pins out the
[01:04:10] going to take all the pins out the outside as we know everything is lined
[01:04:12] outside as we know everything is lined up. Now, we can also just check on the
[01:04:14] up. Now, we can also just check on the inside if we missed any of the lining,
[01:04:16] inside if we missed any of the lining, which we didn't. It looks pretty good to
[01:04:18] which we didn't. It looks pretty good to me. So, we're going to take all the pins
[01:04:20] me. So, we're going to take all the pins out and we're actually going to start
[01:04:21] out and we're actually going to start constructing and sewing the side parts
[01:04:24] constructing and sewing the side parts of the hood onto the actual hood itself.
[01:04:28] of the hood onto the actual hood itself. So, let's do that. So, the way we're
[01:04:30] So, let's do that. So, the way we're going to attach these side parts right
[01:04:33] going to attach these side parts right here of the hood is that we want to make
[01:04:35] here of the hood is that we want to make sure that our sort of good side is
[01:04:37] sure that our sort of good side is facing upwards. And then we want to make
[01:04:39] facing upwards. And then we want to make sure that the top of where our zipper is
[01:04:42] sure that the top of where our zipper is for the fishtail hood is at the top. And
[01:04:46] for the fishtail hood is at the top. And we're going to be matching that up with
[01:04:47] we're going to be matching that up with the top of the hood just up here. As you
[01:04:49] the top of the hood just up here. As you can see, we have the sort of top corner
[01:04:51] can see, we have the sort of top corner of the side hood facing upwards. And
[01:04:54] of the side hood facing upwards. And then we're going to be facing our zipper
[01:04:56] then we're going to be facing our zipper down. And we're basically just going to
[01:04:58] down. And we're basically just going to be stitching all along this one layer of
[01:05:00] be stitching all along this one layer of outer shell here. And what you can do is
[01:05:02] outer shell here. And what you can do is you can pin these other three layers. So
[01:05:04] you can pin these other three layers. So the outer shell, the lining, and then
[01:05:06] the outer shell, the lining, and then the lining for the side that we're
[01:05:08] the lining for the side that we're stitching. You can just pin them down so
[01:05:10] stitching. You can just pin them down so they're not in the way. And we're going
[01:05:11] they're not in the way. And we're going to be working our way all the way round.
[01:05:13] to be working our way all the way round. So it we attach just this outer shell
[01:05:16] So it we attach just this outer shell side panel to the outer shell main and
[01:05:19] side panel to the outer shell main and it should match up perfectly. Then we're
[01:05:20] it should match up perfectly. Then we're going to do the same for the other side.
[01:05:22] going to do the same for the other side. And then once you've seen me do it
[01:05:23] And then once you've seen me do it twice, you do the exact same for the
[01:05:25] twice, you do the exact same for the lining. And then we're going to hit our
[01:05:26] lining. And then we're going to hit our top stitches.
[01:05:35] Snip your excess threads.
[01:05:51] You can see that that part of the hood
[01:05:53] You can see that that part of the hood is attached perfectly. So, we're just
[01:05:55] is attached perfectly. So, we're just going to run a top stitch all the way
[01:05:57] going to run a top stitch all the way down. And I like to make my top stitch
[01:06:00] down. And I like to make my top stitch face inside. So, the fabric is folded
[01:06:03] face inside. So, the fabric is folded towards the side hood piece and then the
[01:06:05] towards the side hood piece and then the top stitch is facing the zipper just for
[01:06:08] top stitch is facing the zipper just for consistency. as we did that top stitch
[01:06:10] consistency. as we did that top stitch on the zipper.
[01:06:20] So, as you can see, we have top stitched
[01:06:22] So, as you can see, we have top stitched one side of our hood and stitched it in.
[01:06:24] one side of our hood and stitched it in. And we've done that without obviously
[01:06:25] And we've done that without obviously stitching anything else but the outer
[01:06:28] stitching anything else but the outer shell piece that we needed to stitch it
[01:06:30] shell piece that we needed to stitch it to with the front facings. We're going
[01:06:31] to with the front facings. We're going to do the exact same thing with the
[01:06:33] to do the exact same thing with the other side. So, we can take the two pins
[01:06:35] other side. So, we can take the two pins out and then sort of fold them the other
[01:06:36] out and then sort of fold them the other way. now.
[01:06:42] And we're going to add pins to the
[01:06:45] And we're going to add pins to the inside of the lining. And then that
[01:06:47] inside of the lining. And then that should just, you know, leave our main
[01:06:49] should just, you know, leave our main outer shell ready to be sewn. And we're
[01:06:50] outer shell ready to be sewn. And we're going to do the exact same thing on the
[01:06:52] going to do the exact same thing on the other side with the front facing of the
[01:06:56] other side with the front facing of the other outer shell as you can see there.
[01:06:58] other outer shell as you can see there. So, we'll just place this down. Make
[01:07:00] So, we'll just place this down. Make sure that everything matches up.
[01:07:09] So, as you can see now, I've just sewn
[01:07:11] So, as you can see now, I've just sewn all the two outer shell hood pieces to
[01:07:14] all the two outer shell hood pieces to the center hood piece. Is now really
[01:07:17] the center hood piece. Is now really taking shape to what it will look like
[01:07:18] taking shape to what it will look like in the end. We need to add the lining in
[01:07:21] in the end. We need to add the lining in now. So, we're going to do the exact
[01:07:22] now. So, we're going to do the exact same procedure from the inside where
[01:07:25] same procedure from the inside where we're just going to move all the fabric
[01:07:26] we're just going to move all the fabric over to one side and we're going to do
[01:07:28] over to one side and we're going to do the sort of, you know, the front facings
[01:07:30] the sort of, you know, the front facings together and we're going to top stitch
[01:07:32] together and we're going to top stitch and sort of stitch our hood into the
[01:07:36] and sort of stitch our hood into the single piece of lining. And then do the
[01:07:38] single piece of lining. And then do the same for the other side. And this is
[01:07:41] same for the other side. And this is just doing the exact same procedure for
[01:07:42] just doing the exact same procedure for the outer shell, but for the lining. And
[01:07:44] the outer shell, but for the lining. And then it will make a seamless hood. And
[01:07:46] then it will make a seamless hood. And the reason we've left that 1.5 in gap
[01:07:49] the reason we've left that 1.5 in gap just here is because we're actually
[01:07:50] just here is because we're actually going to fold this in afterwards and pin
[01:07:53] going to fold this in afterwards and pin and just make sure that it's all really
[01:07:55] and just make sure that it's all really clean down this sort of face part of the
[01:07:58] clean down this sort of face part of the hood down this sort of like you know the
[01:08:00] hood down this sort of like you know the opening of the hood. So yeah, let's do
[01:08:03] opening of the hood. So yeah, let's do the lining. It's the exact same as doing
[01:08:05] the lining. It's the exact same as doing the outer shell and then we will get to
[01:08:07] the outer shell and then we will get to how we can clean up the whole front of
[01:08:09] how we can clean up the whole front of this. But as you just saw is taking
[01:08:13] this. But as you just saw is taking place now and it actually looks super
[01:08:15] place now and it actually looks super clean. I really really like how this is
[01:08:16] clean. I really really like how this is coming out. So yeah.
[01:08:30] This one.
[01:08:57] Now we have just sewn in the lining. You
[01:09:00] Now we have just sewn in the lining. You could see that when I went over that
[01:09:01] could see that when I went over that sort of lining curve, just the one that
[01:09:04] sort of lining curve, just the one that I just sewn in here. You can see that I
[01:09:06] I just sewn in here. You can see that I was using that same green sort of uh
[01:09:08] was using that same green sort of uh wheel sewing foot. It just makes it
[01:09:11] wheel sewing foot. It just makes it easier. If you don't have one of them,
[01:09:12] easier. If you don't have one of them, then maybe use that sort of technique I
[01:09:14] then maybe use that sort of technique I showed you earlier where you're doing
[01:09:15] showed you earlier where you're doing the cellar tape over the front of the
[01:09:18] the cellar tape over the front of the sewing foot. Anyway, now we're going to
[01:09:20] sewing foot. Anyway, now we're going to get on to closing up the outside of this
[01:09:23] get on to closing up the outside of this hood. This sort of raw edge we've made
[01:09:25] hood. This sort of raw edge we've made over here. And there is two ways of
[01:09:28] over here. And there is two ways of doing this actually. And I I'm going to
[01:09:31] doing this actually. And I I'm going to think about which one I want to do and
[01:09:33] think about which one I want to do and which one I want to show you. Give me a
[01:09:35] which one I want to show you. Give me a second. So the way I am going to teach
[01:09:37] second. So the way I am going to teach you how to sort of close up this whole
[01:09:39] you how to sort of close up this whole area right here. You can leave this
[01:09:41] area right here. You can leave this bottom bit open because I'll show you
[01:09:43] bottom bit open because I'll show you what we're going to do with it later.
[01:09:44] what we're going to do with it later. We're going to construct this towards
[01:09:46] We're going to construct this towards our outer shell. This for our lining. So
[01:09:48] our outer shell. This for our lining. So we need this to be open for now. We can
[01:09:50] we need this to be open for now. We can throw some pins in it so it keeps it in
[01:09:51] throw some pins in it so it keeps it in the right sort of position. But the main
[01:09:53] the right sort of position. But the main thing is closing up this sort of facing
[01:09:55] thing is closing up this sort of facing edge right here that goes all the way
[01:09:57] edge right here that goes all the way around your sort of head, you know. And
[01:10:00] around your sort of head, you know. And the way I'm going to do that is we can
[01:10:02] the way I'm going to do that is we can focus in obviously the hood is in two
[01:10:05] focus in obviously the hood is in two parts right now. While it's in one part,
[01:10:06] parts right now. While it's in one part, but obviously I've split the zip. So the
[01:10:08] but obviously I've split the zip. So the hood is open. We're going to focus on
[01:10:10] hood is open. We're going to focus on one side right now and that is whichever
[01:10:12] one side right now and that is whichever side you pick. And because we left that
[01:10:14] side you pick. And because we left that 1.5 inch gap, that sort of 1.5 in gap
[01:10:18] 1.5 inch gap, that sort of 1.5 in gap there, we can actually fold this and
[01:10:21] there, we can actually fold this and flip this all the way round. So you can
[01:10:23] flip this all the way round. So you can see that it matches up front facing. And
[01:10:26] see that it matches up front facing. And we're going to pin all the way along
[01:10:29] we're going to pin all the way along this from the outside shell side. And
[01:10:32] this from the outside shell side. And then we're going to stitch all the way
[01:10:34] then we're going to stitch all the way down this so it closes up the whole of
[01:10:37] down this so it closes up the whole of the front. Then you should be able to
[01:10:38] the front. Then you should be able to turn this inside out. it will actually
[01:10:41] turn this inside out. it will actually hide some of your zipper. So, in my
[01:10:43] hide some of your zipper. So, in my case, it works really nicely because my
[01:10:46] case, it works really nicely because my zip fell off the end as you saw earlier.
[01:10:48] zip fell off the end as you saw earlier. But yeah, we're just one side outer
[01:10:50] But yeah, we're just one side outer shell lining. We're literally just going
[01:10:52] shell lining. We're literally just going to flip it on itself. Make sure this
[01:10:55] to flip it on itself. Make sure this lining side is folded and then match it
[01:10:58] lining side is folded and then match it up with exactly where it is right there.
[01:11:00] up with exactly where it is right there. And that is going to be on the inside as
[01:11:02] And that is going to be on the inside as you can see. So, your zipper will sort
[01:11:04] you can see. So, your zipper will sort of cut in and go on the inside. And this
[01:11:06] of cut in and go on the inside. And this will just mean that when you turn it the
[01:11:08] will just mean that when you turn it the right way around, your zip will stop
[01:11:10] right way around, your zip will stop right here.
[01:11:22] So now you've thrown your first pin in
[01:11:24] So now you've thrown your first pin in here. We can kind of just move and sort
[01:11:27] here. We can kind of just move and sort of move everything out the way. And you
[01:11:30] of move everything out the way. And you can see that now this sort of lines up
[01:11:33] can see that now this sort of lines up perfectly with the good sides facing
[01:11:35] perfectly with the good sides facing each other of one singular side. And
[01:11:38] each other of one singular side. And what we're going to do is we're going to
[01:11:39] what we're going to do is we're going to stitch all the way down here with pins
[01:11:42] stitch all the way down here with pins and put pins into. And then we're going
[01:11:44] and put pins into. And then we're going to stop around like 1 in from the edge
[01:11:46] to stop around like 1 in from the edge of here. The reason we're going to stop
[01:11:48] of here. The reason we're going to stop for 1 in from the end is because this
[01:11:50] for 1 in from the end is because this needs to be folded into this edge right
[01:11:52] needs to be folded into this edge right here. And that needs to be folded in
[01:11:54] here. And that needs to be folded in later on down the line when we get to
[01:11:56] later on down the line when we get to sewing our main zipper into the jacket
[01:11:58] sewing our main zipper into the jacket itself. So going down this sort of
[01:12:01] itself. So going down this sort of curved area right here, we're just going
[01:12:03] curved area right here, we're just going to make sure we stop about an inch from
[01:12:04] to make sure we stop about an inch from the end. And then we're going to do the
[01:12:06] the end. And then we're going to do the exact same thing for the other side.
[01:12:15] We can actually add a pin to this side
[01:12:17] We can actually add a pin to this side part, too, just for reference. And then
[01:12:19] part, too, just for reference. And then we can actually just sew all the way
[01:12:20] we can actually just sew all the way down. In my case, I'm probably going to
[01:12:22] down. In my case, I'm probably going to sew up and start from that 1 in opening
[01:12:25] sew up and start from that 1 in opening just because it's on my good side of the
[01:12:27] just because it's on my good side of the sewing machine. So yeah, let's work our
[01:12:29] sewing machine. So yeah, let's work our way up this and then we'll do the exact
[01:12:31] way up this and then we'll do the exact same thing for the other side. As I
[01:12:33] same thing for the other side. As I mentioned, like an inch from the edge.
[01:12:35] mentioned, like an inch from the edge. I'm starting from the bottom where the
[01:12:37] I'm starting from the bottom where the zipper would go up the center front and
[01:12:39] zipper would go up the center front and I'm making my way all the way to the
[01:12:41] I'm making my way all the way to the zipper at the top. You can do it the
[01:12:43] zipper at the top. You can do it the other way if you're doing it the other
[01:12:44] other way if you're doing it the other way. Just make sure you're stopping
[01:12:46] way. Just make sure you're stopping about 1 in from the edge of that sort of
[01:12:49] about 1 in from the edge of that sort of center bit where the zip, your main sort
[01:12:51] center bit where the zip, your main sort of jacket zipper would go. So, we want
[01:12:54] of jacket zipper would go. So, we want to make them work our way up.
[01:13:02] So, just to explain that intricate part
[01:13:04] So, just to explain that intricate part right here, I've got my needle in my
[01:13:06] right here, I've got my needle in my fabric, so it's stopping me from going
[01:13:08] fabric, so it's stopping me from going anywhere. We want to make sure that this
[01:13:11] anywhere. We want to make sure that this inner lining is folded underneath just
[01:13:14] inner lining is folded underneath just like that. And we want to make sure the
[01:13:16] like that. And we want to make sure the zipper tape is actually folded
[01:13:19] zipper tape is actually folded underneath that sewing foot just like
[01:13:22] underneath that sewing foot just like that. And they're both placed
[01:13:25] that. And they're both placed perfectly. So then we can sew
[01:13:28] perfectly. So then we can sew right over both.
[01:13:31] right over both. And that just closes this whole area up.
[01:13:35] And that just closes this whole area up. And we can take this out. Snip away our
[01:13:37] And we can take this out. Snip away our excess. And when you actually turn this
[01:13:39] excess. And when you actually turn this the right way up,
[01:13:42] the right way up, I'll turn this out properly
[01:13:45] I'll turn this out properly in a minute, but I'm just showing you a
[01:13:46] in a minute, but I'm just showing you a reference. Everything is stitched on the
[01:13:49] reference. Everything is stitched on the hood. And you can see the side of your
[01:13:52] hood. And you can see the side of your hood when this is all pulled out
[01:13:54] hood when this is all pulled out correctly. You can see the side of your
[01:13:56] correctly. You can see the side of your hood has the zipper which closes off
[01:13:59] hood has the zipper which closes off into the garment itself. And once this
[01:14:01] into the garment itself. And once this is turned out properly, we can hit a top
[01:14:03] is turned out properly, we can hit a top stitch all the way down here and it will
[01:14:05] stitch all the way down here and it will close up our hood nicely. So, we're just
[01:14:07] close up our hood nicely. So, we're just going to do the exact same thing with
[01:14:09] going to do the exact same thing with the other side and then turn it inside
[01:14:11] the other side and then turn it inside out. And that should close up all of our
[01:14:14] out. And that should close up all of our hood and we can move on to something
[01:14:15] hood and we can move on to something else. But again, remember, just like I
[01:14:18] else. But again, remember, just like I said, this little intricate part here,
[01:14:20] said, this little intricate part here, we're making sure that the lining is
[01:14:21] we're making sure that the lining is folded over just like this. And the zip
[01:14:24] folded over just like this. And the zip tape stays down. And then when you turn
[01:14:27] tape stays down. And then when you turn it inside out, you're going to match
[01:14:29] it inside out, you're going to match them up. And if you're starting from
[01:14:30] them up. And if you're starting from this point, now we can start stitching.
[01:14:33] this point, now we can start stitching. We want to make sure that again folded
[01:14:35] We want to make sure that again folded and the tape is down flat. And then we
[01:14:38] and the tape is down flat. And then we can start our stitch and work our way
[01:14:40] can start our stitch and work our way along.
[01:14:42] along. Looks more complicated than it is. It's
[01:14:44] Looks more complicated than it is. It's very simple.
[01:14:46] very simple. Just literally like that. So folded
[01:14:48] Just literally like that. So folded lining and then making sure that that
[01:14:50] lining and then making sure that that tape isn't just like that. It's actually
[01:14:53] tape isn't just like that. It's actually closed. Just like that. And just like
[01:14:55] closed. Just like that. And just like that. That's all I say in these videos.
[01:14:57] that. That's all I say in these videos. But hopefully the visual learning and me
[01:15:00] But hopefully the visual learning and me explaining something more than once
[01:15:01] explaining something more than once helps you understand. As I always
[01:15:03] helps you understand. As I always mention, I'm self-taught. So bear with
[01:15:05] mention, I'm self-taught. So bear with me.
[01:15:16] To be honest, to make this easier for
[01:15:18] To be honest, to make this easier for later, there is something that you can
[01:15:20] later, there is something that you can do which will make it easier for you.
[01:15:21] do which will make it easier for you. You can actually fold in where the
[01:15:23] You can actually fold in where the zipper will go just like this. And then
[01:15:26] zipper will go just like this. And then you can do the exact same thing for the
[01:15:28] you can do the exact same thing for the other side and fold that outer shell in.
[01:15:31] other side and fold that outer shell in. And then you can actually stitch to the
[01:15:33] And then you can actually stitch to the end. The reason we left that inch the
[01:15:35] end. The reason we left that inch the other side is so we can now allow for
[01:15:37] other side is so we can now allow for this fold. But you might as well make it
[01:15:38] this fold. But you might as well make it now and run your stitch all the way
[01:15:40] now and run your stitch all the way through it.
[01:15:44] Just like that. And you'll see why now.
[01:15:46] Just like that. And you'll see why now. Cuz if I turn this round the right way,
[01:15:49] Cuz if I turn this round the right way, snipping all of our loose ends. If I
[01:15:51] snipping all of our loose ends. If I turn this out the right way,
[01:15:56] you can see that it's naturally going to
[01:15:57] you can see that it's naturally going to start making that fold with these two
[01:16:00] start making that fold with these two panels right here. And then obviously
[01:16:02] panels right here. And then obviously what you've just done is cleaned up all
[01:16:04] what you've just done is cleaned up all of the face part of the hood. And now we
[01:16:07] of the face part of the hood. And now we can actually just zip this up. And then
[01:16:10] can actually just zip this up. And then we know that the fishtail hood is now
[01:16:12] we know that the fishtail hood is now functioning like that. You can see it's
[01:16:14] functioning like that. You can see it's a little bit messy around here because
[01:16:16] a little bit messy around here because my turning inside out wasn't the best.
[01:16:18] my turning inside out wasn't the best. I'm just going to clean this up off
[01:16:19] I'm just going to clean this up off camera. Basically just making sure these
[01:16:21] camera. Basically just making sure these edges are turned out nicely. That zip is
[01:16:23] edges are turned out nicely. That zip is sort of pushed in a little bit further.
[01:16:25] sort of pushed in a little bit further. And then finishing that top stitch on
[01:16:27] And then finishing that top stitch on the zip all the way round and connecting
[01:16:29] the zip all the way round and connecting it all the way down to the bottom. And
[01:16:31] it all the way down to the bottom. And uh yeah, I'll show you how I do that
[01:16:33] uh yeah, I'll show you how I do that now.
[01:16:42] What we can do with this end fold, the
[01:16:45] What we can do with this end fold, the one that has the the one that's on the
[01:16:47] one that has the the one that's on the center of our zip, just like that, is we
[01:16:50] center of our zip, just like that, is we can actually naturally start turning it
[01:16:52] can actually naturally start turning it and throwing some pins in there just to
[01:16:54] and throwing some pins in there just to keep it in place.
[01:16:58] We're not sewing down this, but I'm just
[01:17:00] We're not sewing down this, but I'm just throwing a pin in here. Single little
[01:17:02] throwing a pin in here. Single little pin in there for later. We can get back
[01:17:05] pin in there for later. We can get back to this in a bit. What we're going to do
[01:17:06] to this in a bit. What we're going to do now, as I showed you, was just going to
[01:17:08] now, as I showed you, was just going to top stitch all the way around and sort
[01:17:10] top stitch all the way around and sort of close up and clean up that sort of
[01:17:12] of close up and clean up that sort of edge of the hood.
[01:17:25] Just like that. That cleans up the edge
[01:17:28] Just like that. That cleans up the edge of our hood. And remember, don't stitch
[01:17:30] of our hood. And remember, don't stitch down this sort of part right there. We
[01:17:34] down this sort of part right there. We don't need to focus on that right now.
[01:17:36] don't need to focus on that right now. That is again the center sort of front
[01:17:39] That is again the center sort of front where the zipper would go. We're just
[01:17:40] where the zipper would go. We're just going to clean up the other side and
[01:17:42] going to clean up the other side and then we'll move on to something else.
[01:17:50] Again, once we get down the bottom, we
[01:17:52] Again, once we get down the bottom, we can make that fold and then carry on
[01:17:55] can make that fold and then carry on with that top stitch all the way down.
[01:17:58] with that top stitch all the way down. This just closes up that area.
[01:18:04] So again, you can throw a pin just in
[01:18:07] So again, you can throw a pin just in this little center piece where the zip
[01:18:10] this little center piece where the zip is going to go. And I just noticed that
[01:18:11] is going to go. And I just noticed that I actually did on this one sew all the
[01:18:14] I actually did on this one sew all the way down. And I noticed that on this one
[01:18:16] way down. And I noticed that on this one right here, I told you not to. So if you
[01:18:18] right here, I told you not to. So if you want to go back and just sew that to the
[01:18:20] want to go back and just sew that to the end, just make sure that everything is
[01:18:22] end, just make sure that everything is folded when you do. And then obviously
[01:18:24] folded when you do. And then obviously it just closes up this little edge right
[01:18:26] it just closes up this little edge right here.
[01:18:32] And just like that, that is your
[01:18:33] And just like that, that is your fishtail hood completed.
[01:18:36] fishtail hood completed. As you can see, it's looking super nice.
[01:18:39] As you can see, it's looking super nice. When that zip's integrated, and then you
[01:18:42] When that zip's integrated, and then you can zip it all the way undone, it'll
[01:18:44] can zip it all the way undone, it'll fall over your shoulders. Bang. Fishtail
[01:18:47] fall over your shoulders. Bang. Fishtail hood done. Just leave that whole bottom
[01:18:50] hood done. Just leave that whole bottom of the hood open. We will sort of target
[01:18:51] of the hood open. We will sort of target this area later, but for now, we're
[01:18:53] this area later, but for now, we're going to move on to something a little
[01:18:54] going to move on to something a little bit easier. That was probably the
[01:18:57] bit easier. That was probably the hardest part of the tutorial. So, as I
[01:19:00] hardest part of the tutorial. So, as I mentioned earlier, if you want to dive
[01:19:02] mentioned earlier, if you want to dive into something that is way easier, you
[01:19:04] into something that is way easier, you can watch this video and take you
[01:19:05] can watch this video and take you through the insulated collar. And if you
[01:19:07] through the insulated collar. And if you watch this video, it take you through
[01:19:08] watch this video, it take you through the rib neck system. That was a little
[01:19:11] the rib neck system. That was a little bit more complicated than I would
[01:19:14] bit more complicated than I would suggest if you're starting off and
[01:19:16] suggest if you're starting off and you're making this aero jacket classic.
[01:19:18] you're making this aero jacket classic. But if you do want to jump into the
[01:19:19] But if you do want to jump into the hood, it is super rewarding when you
[01:19:21] hood, it is super rewarding when you finish the jacket. So, yeah, your
[01:19:23] finish the jacket. So, yeah, your choice. The option is there in this
[01:19:25] choice. The option is there in this video. and the options for the other
[01:19:26] video. and the options for the other ones are there on the other video. So
[01:19:28] ones are there on the other video. So yeah, let's move on.
[01:19:34] We have just finished the fishtail hood,
[01:19:36] We have just finished the fishtail hood, which I think looks really, really nice.
[01:19:38] which I think looks really, really nice. It opens perfectly, and I'm really,
[01:19:40] It opens perfectly, and I'm really, really happy with it. So, the next thing
[01:19:42] really happy with it. So, the next thing we're going to focus on is going to be
[01:19:45] we're going to focus on is going to be Well, I might as well just explain to
[01:19:46] Well, I might as well just explain to you where we are. We have just done all
[01:19:49] you where we are. We have just done all of the lining. We've just done the hood,
[01:19:51] of the lining. We've just done the hood, and they're kind of the most tedious
[01:19:53] and they're kind of the most tedious parts of the process. Now, we're going
[01:19:55] parts of the process. Now, we're going to start focusing on constructing the
[01:19:57] to start focusing on constructing the outer shell, the pockets on the two
[01:19:59] outer shell, the pockets on the two front pieces, which we have the flaps
[01:20:02] front pieces, which we have the flaps for right here. We might need to cut a
[01:20:04] for right here. We might need to cut a little bit more fabric for the pocket
[01:20:05] little bit more fabric for the pocket bag, but I'll show you that when we get
[01:20:07] bag, but I'll show you that when we get to it. And then we might add a little
[01:20:09] to it. And then we might add a little welted pocket, just a diagonal welted
[01:20:11] welted pocket, just a diagonal welted pocket right here with a zip integrated.
[01:20:13] pocket right here with a zip integrated. Again, I'm not going to show you that.
[01:20:15] Again, I'm not going to show you that. You can watch the video on the welted
[01:20:16] You can watch the video on the welted pocket on my channel and then come back
[01:20:18] pocket on my channel and then come back here. But I will show you in this video
[01:20:20] here. But I will show you in this video how to do these sort of welted pockets
[01:20:22] how to do these sort of welted pockets with the flaps as I think they are a
[01:20:25] with the flaps as I think they are a little bit more important and there's
[01:20:26] little bit more important and there's more to them. Once we've done the
[01:20:27] more to them. Once we've done the pockets, we are ready to start
[01:20:29] pockets, we are ready to start integrating the full thing together. So
[01:20:31] integrating the full thing together. So we'll get to things like the zip cover,
[01:20:34] we'll get to things like the zip cover, which is so easy. And then we'll do the
[01:20:36] which is so easy. And then we'll do the arms the same as we done the lining. And
[01:20:38] arms the same as we done the lining. And then we can actually start constructing
[01:20:40] then we can actually start constructing the whole thing together. We can put the
[01:20:41] the whole thing together. We can put the ribbing with the sort of bottom facing.
[01:20:45] ribbing with the sort of bottom facing. They're the two little square bits
[01:20:46] They're the two little square bits you've got right here. They just get
[01:20:48] you've got right here. They just get placed on the very sort of bottom of the
[01:20:50] placed on the very sort of bottom of the front piece and then yeah, it's pretty
[01:20:52] front piece and then yeah, it's pretty much just constructing it together. So,
[01:20:54] much just constructing it together. So, let's tackle the pockets on the front
[01:20:56] let's tackle the pockets on the front pieces first and then we'll get to the
[01:20:58] pieces first and then we'll get to the zip cover. We'll do the arms the exact
[01:21:00] zip cover. We'll do the arms the exact same as what we did for the lining and
[01:21:03] same as what we did for the lining and then we'll get to constructing the piece
[01:21:05] then we'll get to constructing the piece of clothing together. So, one thing that
[01:21:07] of clothing together. So, one thing that I wanted to quickly show you is how to
[01:21:09] I wanted to quickly show you is how to do the pocket placement on the front.
[01:21:11] do the pocket placement on the front. You should have on the pattern, you
[01:21:13] You should have on the pattern, you should have markings for the welted
[01:21:15] should have markings for the welted pocket that goes diagonal that runs this
[01:21:17] pocket that goes diagonal that runs this way. And then you should have the two
[01:21:19] way. And then you should have the two sort of indications for the welted side
[01:21:21] sort of indications for the welted side pockets, which are going to be your main
[01:21:23] pockets, which are going to be your main sort of flap opening pockets that you
[01:21:25] sort of flap opening pockets that you can put both hands in. Essentially, the
[01:21:27] can put both hands in. Essentially, the way that I'm going to do it, just
[01:21:28] way that I'm going to do it, just because I I sort of gave it to Max for
[01:21:31] because I I sort of gave it to Max for his bomber jacket, I'm just going to
[01:21:32] his bomber jacket, I'm just going to mark where I want one of the pattern
[01:21:34] mark where I want one of the pattern pieces. And then because I've done it in
[01:21:36] pieces. And then because I've done it in wax, I can literally just fold this
[01:21:38] wax, I can literally just fold this panel piece over, match it up perfectly
[01:21:41] panel piece over, match it up perfectly so it's exactly the same. And then I'm
[01:21:43] so it's exactly the same. And then I'm going to just run my finger along where
[01:21:45] going to just run my finger along where that sort of wax marking is. And then it
[01:21:47] that sort of wax marking is. And then it should have replicated it over to the
[01:21:49] should have replicated it over to the other side. So we have two nice markings
[01:21:51] other side. So we have two nice markings there, which works perfectly. So now we
[01:21:54] there, which works perfectly. So now we know that I've done that the length of
[01:21:56] know that I've done that the length of the flap. And then you've got the exact
[01:21:58] the flap. And then you've got the exact same thing for the other side over here,
[01:22:00] same thing for the other side over here, which we can now clean up with this
[01:22:03] which we can now clean up with this little ruler over here. Just like that.
[01:22:06] little ruler over here. Just like that. And we also want to maybe do a little
[01:22:08] And we also want to maybe do a little welted pocket with a zip integrated. As
[01:22:10] welted pocket with a zip integrated. As I mentioned, won't be showing you the
[01:22:12] I mentioned, won't be showing you the welted pocket, but we can do the same
[01:22:14] welted pocket, but we can do the same thing where we're showing you how to
[01:22:16] thing where we're showing you how to attach it. I'm just going to quickly
[01:22:17] attach it. I'm just going to quickly just mark one side of the zip here and
[01:22:20] just mark one side of the zip here and then the other side of the zip up here.
[01:22:22] then the other side of the zip up here. And then that looks about right to me.
[01:22:25] And then that looks about right to me. So we can just draw a little line to
[01:22:28] So we can just draw a little line to connect them two dots. We know it's the
[01:22:30] connect them two dots. We know it's the right length for the zipper.
[01:22:34] right length for the zipper. First, I'm going to integrate the welted
[01:22:37] First, I'm going to integrate the welted pocket with the zip. And then I'm going
[01:22:39] pocket with the zip. And then I'm going to take you through the process of how
[01:22:40] to take you through the process of how to do the flap welted pocket right here.
[01:22:44] to do the flap welted pocket right here. And I'll fully show you how to do that
[01:22:46] And I'll fully show you how to do that pocket. This one, go and watch the other
[01:22:48] pocket. This one, go and watch the other video. These ones I will show you in a
[01:22:49] video. These ones I will show you in a second.
[01:23:15] So you will have the pattern piece for
[01:23:17] So you will have the pattern piece for this and it is basically the sort of
[01:23:20] this and it is basically the sort of bottom half of the flap welted pocket
[01:23:23] bottom half of the flap welted pocket and it should match up perfectly with
[01:23:24] and it should match up perfectly with the flap. If you don't, I gave the
[01:23:27] the flap. If you don't, I gave the pattern to Max, unfortunately. So,
[01:23:29] pattern to Max, unfortunately. So, basically, what I did was cut a square
[01:23:31] basically, what I did was cut a square that's exact same width as the flap and
[01:23:33] that's exact same width as the flap and then just did 2 in down. And I did two
[01:23:36] then just did 2 in down. And I did two of them, one for one side and one for
[01:23:38] of them, one for one side and one for the other. And then you can cut that in
[01:23:39] the other. And then you can cut that in half. So, if I measure it, you're pretty
[01:23:42] half. So, if I measure it, you're pretty much going to be cutting a 8x
[01:23:46] much going to be cutting a 8x 5 1/2 in square and then cutting it
[01:23:49] 5 1/2 in square and then cutting it directly in the middle in half
[01:23:51] directly in the middle in half lengthwise. So, I'm going to show you
[01:23:53] lengthwise. So, I'm going to show you now how to construct this insulated
[01:23:56] now how to construct this insulated pocket flap. The way I cut the pattern
[01:23:58] pocket flap. The way I cut the pattern out was I basically cut two front-facing
[01:24:02] out was I basically cut two front-facing sort of good sides together pieces of
[01:24:04] sort of good sides together pieces of fabric and then on the outside I did a
[01:24:07] fabric and then on the outside I did a bit of the insulation. Now, the reason I
[01:24:09] bit of the insulation. Now, the reason I did this was because when you sew this
[01:24:12] did this was because when you sew this together with the insulation on the
[01:24:14] together with the insulation on the outside and then below that, two goodiz
[01:24:16] outside and then below that, two goodiz facing main sort of outer shell fabric.
[01:24:18] facing main sort of outer shell fabric. You're basically going to sew around the
[01:24:20] You're basically going to sew around the edge and not around this long edge right
[01:24:22] edge and not around this long edge right here because this is the opening that
[01:24:24] here because this is the opening that we're then going to turn inside out. But
[01:24:26] we're then going to turn inside out. But we're going to turn it inside out from
[01:24:28] we're going to turn it inside out from the inside of these two good facings
[01:24:30] the inside of these two good facings together. And this will basically mean
[01:24:33] together. And this will basically mean that this insulation will be trapped in
[01:24:35] that this insulation will be trapped in the middle. And then once it's turned
[01:24:37] the middle. And then once it's turned out, we've sort of pushed all the points
[01:24:39] out, we've sort of pushed all the points out of the pocket, then we can hit a top
[01:24:42] out of the pocket, then we can hit a top stitch. And because it is has insulation
[01:24:44] stitch. And because it is has insulation on it, um it'll basically just come out
[01:24:47] on it, um it'll basically just come out looking really nice with that top
[01:24:49] looking really nice with that top stitch. The way we're going to sew this
[01:24:50] stitch. The way we're going to sew this pocket is we're going to when the actual
[01:24:52] pocket is we're going to when the actual pocket is sewn together, we'll be sewing
[01:24:55] pocket is sewn together, we'll be sewing it down to this marking that we made and
[01:24:57] it down to this marking that we made and we're going to just be sewing along this
[01:24:59] we're going to just be sewing along this edge. And then we will grab one of these
[01:25:01] edge. And then we will grab one of these squares. Hold on.
[01:25:04] squares. Hold on. You want to grab one of your squares of
[01:25:06] You want to grab one of your squares of fabric and then you want to just butt
[01:25:09] fabric and then you want to just butt that up to where that pocket sort of
[01:25:11] that up to where that pocket sort of placement alignment is and then pull
[01:25:14] placement alignment is and then pull them so they both match. And then we're
[01:25:15] them so they both match. And then we're going to construct this the exact same
[01:25:17] going to construct this the exact same way we would with a welted pocket. So
[01:25:19] way we would with a welted pocket. So I'm actually going to take you through
[01:25:20] I'm actually going to take you through the process of this. The way you do a
[01:25:22] the process of this. The way you do a welted pocket is literally the exact
[01:25:24] welted pocket is literally the exact same, but instead of having the flap
[01:25:26] same, but instead of having the flap there, you would just have another piece
[01:25:28] there, you would just have another piece of fabric. And I'll take you through the
[01:25:30] of fabric. And I'll take you through the process. It is super super super simple.
[01:25:33] process. It is super super super simple. You want to start with stitching maybe
[01:25:36] You want to start with stitching maybe a/4 in from the middle all the way down
[01:25:41] a/4 in from the middle all the way down this flap. And then you want to do the
[01:25:42] this flap. And then you want to do the exact same thing quarter of an inch all
[01:25:44] exact same thing quarter of an inch all the way down this. And there will be two
[01:25:47] the way down this. And there will be two parallel stitch lines. What they
[01:25:49] parallel stitch lines. What they indicate is basically the opening of the
[01:25:53] indicate is basically the opening of the pocket. So the wider you go, the bigger
[01:25:55] pocket. So the wider you go, the bigger your opening of the pocket will be and
[01:25:57] your opening of the pocket will be and the narrower you go, the smaller the
[01:26:00] the narrower you go, the smaller the opening of the pocket will be. So, we
[01:26:01] opening of the pocket will be. So, we kind of want to allow like 3/4 of an
[01:26:03] kind of want to allow like 3/4 of an inch opening for the pocket, maybe half
[01:26:06] inch opening for the pocket, maybe half an inch. And then, yeah, we're basically
[01:26:09] an inch. And then, yeah, we're basically going to turn this inside out after.
[01:26:11] going to turn this inside out after. We're going to do the same procedure as
[01:26:12] We're going to do the same procedure as what we've done on the hood where we've
[01:26:14] what we've done on the hood where we've got the triangles on each end, which we
[01:26:16] got the triangles on each end, which we can then fold in. Yeah, we're basically
[01:26:18] can then fold in. Yeah, we're basically going to add a pocket bag to that. And
[01:26:21] going to add a pocket bag to that. And then, yeah, that that will be your flat
[01:26:23] then, yeah, that that will be your flat pocket. So, let me let me show you what
[01:26:25] pocket. So, let me let me show you what what we're working with. So, the first
[01:26:27] what we're working with. So, the first thing we're going to tackle is sewing
[01:26:29] thing we're going to tackle is sewing this 1 over4 seam allowance stitch all
[01:26:32] this 1 over4 seam allowance stitch all the way around this pocket. And if you
[01:26:33] the way around this pocket. And if you come a little bit closer, you can see
[01:26:35] come a little bit closer, you can see that we're going to make this 1 over4
[01:26:37] that we're going to make this 1 over4 using the guide on our sewing machine.
[01:26:39] using the guide on our sewing machine. And we're just going to go all the way
[01:26:40] And we're just going to go all the way around, but we're not going to sew the
[01:26:43] around, but we're not going to sew the top part of this pocket. So, the sort of
[01:26:46] top part of this pocket. So, the sort of big long straight line. That is the
[01:26:49] big long straight line. That is the opening where we're turning this pocket
[01:26:50] opening where we're turning this pocket inside out.
[01:27:01] Now, what we can do to make this part of
[01:27:03] Now, what we can do to make this part of the process a tiny bit easier is where
[01:27:05] the process a tiny bit easier is where you've done the stitching on the
[01:27:06] you've done the stitching on the corners, these little right angle
[01:27:08] corners, these little right angle corners, we can actually just trim off
[01:27:11] corners, we can actually just trim off the edges like this. And do the same on
[01:27:15] the edges like this. And do the same on the other side like that. So, you should
[01:27:17] the other side like that. So, you should have something that looks a little bit
[01:27:18] have something that looks a little bit like this. The reason we're doing this
[01:27:20] like this. The reason we're doing this is cuz it is actually easier to turn
[01:27:22] is cuz it is actually easier to turn inside out in a minute. This is what
[01:27:24] inside out in a minute. This is what they look like. The reason we're doing
[01:27:25] they look like. The reason we're doing this is because when we're turning this
[01:27:27] this is because when we're turning this inside out, it just makes it easier for
[01:27:29] inside out, it just makes it easier for us to turn our corners.
[01:27:36] And then you can use a pin to literally
[01:27:38] And then you can use a pin to literally just hook out the inside part that's not
[01:27:42] just hook out the inside part that's not properly turned out fully.
[01:27:48] What I'm doing just to make this a
[01:27:50] What I'm doing just to make this a little bit easier for myself is I've
[01:27:52] little bit easier for myself is I've just put a few pins in and we're going
[01:27:54] just put a few pins in and we're going to run a 1 over4 top stitch all along
[01:27:56] to run a 1 over4 top stitch all along this. The 1 over4 top stitch will sit a
[01:27:59] this. The 1 over4 top stitch will sit a little bit further into the actual
[01:28:01] little bit further into the actual pocket flap itself. It'll just mean that
[01:28:03] pocket flap itself. It'll just mean that a lot of this sort of insulation will
[01:28:05] a lot of this sort of insulation will bunch up and it will make the pocket
[01:28:07] bunch up and it will make the pocket sort of top stitching look really clean.
[01:28:08] sort of top stitching look really clean. So, let me show you. So, as you can see,
[01:28:10] So, let me show you. So, as you can see, there's quite a lot of fabric on the
[01:28:12] there's quite a lot of fabric on the right side of my sewing foot. This is
[01:28:14] right side of my sewing foot. This is the one over fourth seam allowance top
[01:28:16] the one over fourth seam allowance top stitch. And it just basically I'll show
[01:28:19] stitch. And it just basically I'll show you what it looks like after.
[01:28:27] As you can see, it just makes this super
[01:28:30] As you can see, it just makes this super nice sort of bunched up top stitch all
[01:28:33] nice sort of bunched up top stitch all the way around, which sort of pushes
[01:28:34] the way around, which sort of pushes some of the insulation to the other
[01:28:36] some of the insulation to the other side. And it looks super clean both
[01:28:38] side. And it looks super clean both sides. Other than me just cleaning up
[01:28:40] sides. Other than me just cleaning up that little loose bit of thread at the
[01:28:42] that little loose bit of thread at the top.
[01:29:05] So, when you're doing the top stitch on
[01:29:07] So, when you're doing the top stitch on the second one, I'm just doing both of
[01:29:08] the second one, I'm just doing both of them at the same time. one for the right
[01:29:11] them at the same time. one for the right sort of uh pocket flap and one for the
[01:29:13] sort of uh pocket flap and one for the left. When we are top stitching, we want
[01:29:16] left. When we are top stitching, we want to make sure that our bobbin thread is
[01:29:17] to make sure that our bobbin thread is underneath. So, we want to make sure
[01:29:19] underneath. So, we want to make sure that both of the pocket flaps are sort
[01:29:22] that both of the pocket flaps are sort of facing and mirroring each other. So,
[01:29:24] of facing and mirroring each other. So, we know that the stitching on the other
[01:29:26] we know that the stitching on the other side is traveling up and not the other
[01:29:29] side is traveling up and not the other way like this. Cuz then when you turn it
[01:29:31] way like this. Cuz then when you turn it the other way, there's, you know, your
[01:29:33] the other way, there's, you know, your unclean sort of bobbin thread if it is
[01:29:35] unclean sort of bobbin thread if it is unclean is going to be showing on the
[01:29:37] unclean is going to be showing on the top. So yeah, just make sure that
[01:29:39] top. So yeah, just make sure that they're both mirrored and you're top
[01:29:40] they're both mirrored and you're top stitching the opposite side because I
[01:29:44] stitching the opposite side because I left a smaller gap at the top and then a
[01:29:46] left a smaller gap at the top and then a longer gap sort of at the bottom of
[01:29:47] longer gap sort of at the bottom of these pocket flaps. So now we have
[01:29:50] these pocket flaps. So now we have stitched all around that top stitch.
[01:29:52] stitched all around that top stitch. We're just going to do a very small seam
[01:29:55] We're just going to do a very small seam allowance stitch just to close up this
[01:29:57] allowance stitch just to close up this opening of the pocket bag. We're just
[01:30:00] opening of the pocket bag. We're just going to close that up all on the top
[01:30:01] going to close that up all on the top with a very small seam allowance.
[01:30:07] So now you have top stitched all of your
[01:30:10] So now you have top stitched all of your flap together. You can see that it's
[01:30:12] flap together. You can see that it's slightly smaller in width than the
[01:30:15] slightly smaller in width than the rectangle that you just cut out for the
[01:30:18] rectangle that you just cut out for the other side. The way we're going to
[01:30:19] other side. The way we're going to basically sew this now is the same as a
[01:30:21] basically sew this now is the same as a welted pocket. If you were doing a
[01:30:23] welted pocket. If you were doing a normal welted pocket, you'd have a
[01:30:25] normal welted pocket, you'd have a replica of this rectangle the other side
[01:30:27] replica of this rectangle the other side too. And then you would sort of make
[01:30:29] too. And then you would sort of make something that looks a little bit like
[01:30:31] something that looks a little bit like this on both sides. that one of these
[01:30:34] this on both sides. that one of these sides, let's say this one right here, is
[01:30:36] sides, let's say this one right here, is going to act as the flap that goes over
[01:30:39] going to act as the flap that goes over the pocket. And that's how we're going
[01:30:40] the pocket. And that's how we're going to basically construct this. What we're
[01:30:42] to basically construct this. What we're going to do is we're going to stitch a
[01:30:44] going to do is we're going to stitch a line maybe like let's say 1/4 of an inch
[01:30:49] line maybe like let's say 1/4 of an inch out from the line that you've just sewn
[01:30:51] out from the line that you've just sewn on the main flap, but this time you're
[01:30:53] on the main flap, but this time you're sewing it to the actual jacket. So,
[01:30:55] sewing it to the actual jacket. So, we're going to start this stitch a
[01:30:57] we're going to start this stitch a little bit further out. Let's say few
[01:30:59] little bit further out. Let's say few millmters out. We're going to start the
[01:31:01] millmters out. We're going to start the stitch there. We're going to go all the
[01:31:03] stitch there. We're going to go all the way along the pocket flap quarter of an
[01:31:05] way along the pocket flap quarter of an inch from the middle and then we're
[01:31:08] inch from the middle and then we're going to stop our stitching let's say
[01:31:10] going to stop our stitching let's say around there. So maybe a few millimeters
[01:31:12] around there. So maybe a few millimeters out again. We're going to do the exact
[01:31:14] out again. We're going to do the exact same thing on the actual rectangle. So
[01:31:17] same thing on the actual rectangle. So we're going to travel all the way down
[01:31:19] we're going to travel all the way down parallel completely parallel to the line
[01:31:21] parallel completely parallel to the line that you've just made on the pocket
[01:31:22] that you've just made on the pocket flap. And we're going to stop at the
[01:31:24] flap. And we're going to stop at the same place again. Then I'm going to show
[01:31:26] same place again. Then I'm going to show you how we flip this over, cut this in a
[01:31:29] you how we flip this over, cut this in a way which then we can turn it all inside
[01:31:31] way which then we can turn it all inside out, hit it with a top stitch, and then
[01:31:33] out, hit it with a top stitch, and then add a pocket bag. Let's go. So, just as
[01:31:37] add a pocket bag. Let's go. So, just as I mentioned, we are going to be sewing
[01:31:38] I mentioned, we are going to be sewing and starting our stitch from just where
[01:31:41] and starting our stitch from just where this white mark is here. A few
[01:31:44] this white mark is here. A few millimeters out from the top of your
[01:31:47] millimeters out from the top of your flap. And then we're going to stitch all
[01:31:48] flap. And then we're going to stitch all the way down the flap. And then do the
[01:31:50] the way down the flap. And then do the same with a few millimeters out on the
[01:31:52] same with a few millimeters out on the bottom.
[01:31:59] Just like that. And now we finish that
[01:32:01] Just like that. And now we finish that stitch. Maybe like a
[01:32:05] stitch. Maybe like a Just like that. Now we finished that
[01:32:06] Just like that. Now we finished that stitch just a few millimeters past the
[01:32:10] stitch just a few millimeters past the flap. Now we're going to do the exact
[01:32:13] flap. Now we're going to do the exact same thing as in we're not going to do a
[01:32:15] same thing as in we're not going to do a few millimeters out of the rectangle,
[01:32:17] few millimeters out of the rectangle, but we're going to match up the parallel
[01:32:19] but we're going to match up the parallel stitch that we're about to make with
[01:32:21] stitch that we're about to make with exactly where this one starts.
[01:32:31] carry it all the way down. And just to
[01:32:34] carry it all the way down. And just to reference again, this is where we stop
[01:32:36] reference again, this is where we stop stitching a few millm out from the flap.
[01:32:39] stitching a few millm out from the flap. We're going to do the exact same thing
[01:32:40] We're going to do the exact same thing on the rectangle.
[01:32:44] Now we can trim our excess threads. And
[01:32:46] Now we can trim our excess threads. And now we'll start cutting this and
[01:32:49] now we'll start cutting this and building this pocket out. Now, when you
[01:32:50] building this pocket out. Now, when you flip this inside out, you should have
[01:32:52] flip this inside out, you should have two parallel stitch lines. We're going
[01:32:56] two parallel stitch lines. We're going to find the very middle point of this
[01:32:58] to find the very middle point of this sort of uh two parallel lines. And I'm
[01:33:01] sort of uh two parallel lines. And I'm just going to visually show you what
[01:33:03] just going to visually show you what we're working with. I'm going to just
[01:33:04] we're working with. I'm going to just draw a line that is directly in the
[01:33:07] draw a line that is directly in the middle of these two lines that we've
[01:33:10] middle of these two lines that we've just stitched.
[01:33:13] And we're going to close this off with a
[01:33:15] And we're going to close this off with a triangle the same as what we did on the
[01:33:17] triangle the same as what we did on the hood.
[01:33:19] hood. one side and we're going to do the exact
[01:33:21] one side and we're going to do the exact same thing down here. So, you're closing
[01:33:23] same thing down here. So, you're closing off this triangle by matching it to the
[01:33:27] off this triangle by matching it to the very edge. So, you're going to close off
[01:33:29] very edge. So, you're going to close off this triangle with the very edge of the
[01:33:31] this triangle with the very edge of the stitch right here. And the same with the
[01:33:34] stitch right here. And the same with the top part. Now, what we're going to do is
[01:33:36] top part. Now, what we're going to do is we're going to slice and sort of cut
[01:33:38] we're going to slice and sort of cut open this triangle, follow it all the
[01:33:40] open this triangle, follow it all the way up this line, and then cut this
[01:33:42] way up this line, and then cut this triangle up here. This will mean that it
[01:33:45] triangle up here. This will mean that it will have a perfect opening. The
[01:33:47] will have a perfect opening. The function of these two triangles that we
[01:33:49] function of these two triangles that we are cutting open is so this part can
[01:33:52] are cutting open is so this part can have a clean edge the other side as this
[01:33:54] have a clean edge the other side as this triangle will fold up over on the
[01:33:56] triangle will fold up over on the inside. So let's cut it.
[01:34:01] Make sure you get right to the edge of
[01:34:04] Make sure you get right to the edge of that stitch line that you've made. Just
[01:34:07] that stitch line that you've made. Just like that.
[01:34:09] like that. And the same with the other side.
[01:34:14] Now we can turn this rectangle inside
[01:34:17] Now we can turn this rectangle inside out so it goes on the inside of our
[01:34:20] out so it goes on the inside of our front panel.
[01:34:22] front panel. And you can kind of see that when we
[01:34:24] And you can kind of see that when we turn this the right way, you can see
[01:34:25] turn this the right way, you can see that this flap now functions. The reason
[01:34:28] that this flap now functions. The reason we sewn a little bit out from a few
[01:34:30] we sewn a little bit out from a few millimeters from the pocket flap itself
[01:34:33] millimeters from the pocket flap itself is just so we can actually tuck this
[01:34:35] is just so we can actually tuck this triangle underneath just like that and
[01:34:37] triangle underneath just like that and it won't get in the way when we stitch
[01:34:38] it won't get in the way when we stitch around it and there won't be too much
[01:34:40] around it and there won't be too much puckering on the edge. If we did it
[01:34:42] puckering on the edge. If we did it exactly on the edge of this flap, then
[01:34:45] exactly on the edge of this flap, then all of this would pucker when we're
[01:34:46] all of this would pucker when we're turning inside out as this is a lot of
[01:34:48] turning inside out as this is a lot of fabric and insulation. So, we're just
[01:34:51] fabric and insulation. So, we're just giving this flap some space. And as you
[01:34:54] giving this flap some space. And as you can see, this is now functioning. What
[01:34:56] can see, this is now functioning. What we want to do now is we actually want to
[01:34:57] we want to do now is we actually want to grab an iron, turn on the iron, and we
[01:35:00] grab an iron, turn on the iron, and we want to basically make it so,
[01:35:03] want to basically make it so, you know, welted sort of flap here is
[01:35:06] you know, welted sort of flap here is perfectly half of the pocket opening. So
[01:35:09] perfectly half of the pocket opening. So when you open it, it has this super nice
[01:35:11] when you open it, it has this super nice sort of welt opening right there. We can
[01:35:13] sort of welt opening right there. We can sort of look from the other side on the
[01:35:15] sort of look from the other side on the inside and make sure that the rectangle
[01:35:18] inside and make sure that the rectangle is perfectly turned inside out. Just
[01:35:22] is perfectly turned inside out. Just like that.
[01:35:26] Want to make sure the triangles have
[01:35:27] Want to make sure the triangles have been turned inside out, too. This way
[01:35:30] been turned inside out, too. This way you can grab your iron.
[01:35:34] I've kind of just done that without an
[01:35:36] I've kind of just done that without an iron.
[01:35:39] iron. You're basically just making sure that
[01:35:41] You're basically just making sure that these triangles on both side are tucked
[01:35:43] these triangles on both side are tucked underneath. And this bottom well has
[01:35:46] underneath. And this bottom well has enough space to sort of breathe is
[01:35:48] enough space to sort of breathe is around half of your opening. And then
[01:35:51] around half of your opening. And then the flap which is tucked underneath now
[01:35:53] the flap which is tucked underneath now would basically when we start stitching
[01:35:55] would basically when we start stitching around this in a top stitch, it's going
[01:35:57] around this in a top stitch, it's going to function as it overlaps that as you
[01:35:59] to function as it overlaps that as you saw just a second ago. What I'm going to
[01:36:01] saw just a second ago. What I'm going to do is I kind of did that without an
[01:36:03] do is I kind of did that without an iron, but it looks really clean. Anyway,
[01:36:05] iron, but it looks really clean. Anyway, if you need an iron to be able to hold
[01:36:07] if you need an iron to be able to hold your fabric in place, go for it. There
[01:36:09] your fabric in place, go for it. There is nothing wrong with that. It's
[01:36:10] is nothing wrong with that. It's probably the better option, but I just
[01:36:12] probably the better option, but I just choose not to do it. I'm going to add
[01:36:14] choose not to do it. I'm going to add some pins along the edge of this.
[01:36:20] Just like that. And then when we turn
[01:36:22] Just like that. And then when we turn our flap outside in,
[01:36:25] our flap outside in, you can see that this is starting to
[01:36:27] you can see that this is starting to function as a pocket. Now, what we're
[01:36:29] function as a pocket. Now, what we're going to do is I'm just going to pin all
[01:36:31] going to do is I'm just going to pin all along this edge of the flap, making sure
[01:36:34] along this edge of the flap, making sure that the fabric is pushed so the seam is
[01:36:37] that the fabric is pushed so the seam is nearly revealing.
[01:36:42] And now, making sure the triangles are
[01:36:44] And now, making sure the triangles are out the way. You can double check they
[01:36:46] out the way. You can double check they are by turning it out and then checking
[01:36:48] are by turning it out and then checking the triangle is underneath right there,
[01:36:51] the triangle is underneath right there, which it is. We're going to really
[01:36:53] which it is. We're going to really carefully top stitch around the whole of
[01:36:55] carefully top stitch around the whole of this edge, making sure that when we get
[01:36:57] this edge, making sure that when we get around this bottom bit, we're going to
[01:36:58] around this bottom bit, we're going to pull the flap out the way and then top
[01:37:01] pull the flap out the way and then top stitch all the way around this pocket.
[01:37:04] stitch all the way around this pocket. So, we're now going to top stitch all
[01:37:05] So, we're now going to top stitch all along this top flap. And then we're
[01:37:07] along this top flap. And then we're going to change directions. We're going
[01:37:09] going to change directions. We're going to top stitch really closely, but over
[01:37:11] to top stitch really closely, but over that triangle. And then we're going to
[01:37:13] that triangle. And then we're going to move the flap out the way. We're going
[01:37:15] move the flap out the way. We're going to stitch all the way up this just right
[01:37:19] to stitch all the way up this just right on this edge. the same way you can sort
[01:37:21] on this edge. the same way you can sort of reference and see we have done along
[01:37:23] of reference and see we have done along the side of this welted pocket that I
[01:37:25] the side of this welted pocket that I did off camera. And then we're going to
[01:37:27] did off camera. And then we're going to go back up and make sure we're stitching
[01:37:28] go back up and make sure we're stitching around and then closing that stitch off
[01:37:31] around and then closing that stitch off there. This will basically construct
[01:37:33] there. This will basically construct your whole flap sort of welted pocket.
[01:37:36] your whole flap sort of welted pocket. And then we will get to the pocket bag
[01:37:38] And then we will get to the pocket bag in a minute. The pocket bag is super
[01:37:39] in a minute. The pocket bag is super simple to input to the pocket itself.
[01:37:42] simple to input to the pocket itself. This is the most intricate bit. Making
[01:37:44] This is the most intricate bit. Making sure you're top stitching all the way
[01:37:45] sure you're top stitching all the way around. But if you're smart, you
[01:37:47] around. But if you're smart, you probably would have done a iron to keep
[01:37:50] probably would have done a iron to keep this in place and made sure that
[01:37:52] this in place and made sure that triangle is out the way. But I'm kind of
[01:37:53] triangle is out the way. But I'm kind of doing it with pins just because my iron
[01:37:56] doing it with pins just because my iron is slightly broken at the moment.
[01:38:05] Now we're going to move the flap out the
[01:38:07] Now we're going to move the flap out the way.
[01:38:08] way. Just we can follow that edge
[01:38:12] Just we can follow that edge right across.
[01:38:24] So, right now we're going to close the
[01:38:27] So, right now we're going to close the flap and then we're going to make sure
[01:38:28] flap and then we're going to make sure that everything's pulled so there's no
[01:38:30] that everything's pulled so there's no sort of bunching. And we can sort of
[01:38:32] sort of bunching. And we can sort of check underneath that the triangle is
[01:38:35] check underneath that the triangle is out the way back here. And then we're
[01:38:37] out the way back here. And then we're just going to be stitching over it.
[01:38:44] And then we can sort of follow along and
[01:38:47] And then we can sort of follow along and close up this stitch on the flap.
[01:38:53] So now you should I did the other one
[01:38:56] So now you should I did the other one off camera, but you should have done
[01:38:58] off camera, but you should have done that for both sides of the front of your
[01:39:00] that for both sides of the front of your jacket. Now we can actually work on
[01:39:03] jacket. Now we can actually work on integrating the pocket bag into these
[01:39:06] integrating the pocket bag into these flat welted pockets that we have just
[01:39:08] flat welted pockets that we have just made. I wanted to just make sure that
[01:39:09] made. I wanted to just make sure that you know again it is quite an confusing
[01:39:12] you know again it is quite an confusing sort of step. So working through this
[01:39:14] sort of step. So working through this tutorial sort of methodically and going
[01:39:16] tutorial sort of methodically and going back and making sure you're copying me
[01:39:18] back and making sure you're copying me perfectly with certain parts is really
[01:39:20] perfectly with certain parts is really important because as you can see with
[01:39:22] important because as you can see with this sort of flap piece right here, I'm
[01:39:24] this sort of flap piece right here, I'm just going to show you a mistake I made
[01:39:25] just going to show you a mistake I made on the other one. I gave this a little
[01:39:27] on the other one. I gave this a little bit more room with what we spoke about
[01:39:29] bit more room with what we spoke about sort of sewing a few millimeters away
[01:39:31] sort of sewing a few millimeters away from this flap when we did the beginning
[01:39:34] from this flap when we did the beginning of the welt. That is super important
[01:39:35] of the welt. That is super important because if you start sewing from
[01:39:37] because if you start sewing from actually on top of the flap, then it
[01:39:41] actually on top of the flap, then it will actually do a lot of it will sort
[01:39:42] will actually do a lot of it will sort of pucker up the fabric. As you can see
[01:39:44] of pucker up the fabric. As you can see over here, this is a mistake. I actually
[01:39:47] over here, this is a mistake. I actually showed you how to do it the correct way,
[01:39:49] showed you how to do it the correct way, but before I showed you how to do it the
[01:39:52] but before I showed you how to do it the correct way, I actually filmed the
[01:39:53] correct way, I actually filmed the tutorial and thought it would be good if
[01:39:55] tutorial and thought it would be good if I did it this way. Didn't work. I
[01:39:57] I did it this way. Didn't work. I haven't done flaps with welts for a
[01:39:59] haven't done flaps with welts for a while. But when you do them right, they
[01:40:01] while. But when you do them right, they look really good like on these other
[01:40:03] look really good like on these other garments over here.
[01:40:08] So yeah, basically just allow a bit of
[01:40:10] So yeah, basically just allow a bit of space when you're doing the welts and
[01:40:12] space when you're doing the welts and that sort of two parallel stitch lines.
[01:40:14] that sort of two parallel stitch lines. And then yeah, let's show you how to
[01:40:16] And then yeah, let's show you how to integrate the pocket bag. So what I've
[01:40:18] integrate the pocket bag. So what I've done is I have cut a long strip of
[01:40:21] done is I have cut a long strip of fabric that the width of it is slightly
[01:40:25] fabric that the width of it is slightly wider than your rectangle that is on the
[01:40:28] wider than your rectangle that is on the inside of your garment. So this is the
[01:40:30] inside of your garment. So this is the rectangle that we cut. There is a little
[01:40:32] rectangle that we cut. There is a little sort of loose space right here which is
[01:40:35] sort of loose space right here which is perfect. That is exactly what we need.
[01:40:36] perfect. That is exactly what we need. If you've cut the sort of rectangle to
[01:40:38] If you've cut the sort of rectangle to the right size then you should have this
[01:40:41] the right size then you should have this little flap that's flapping around on
[01:40:43] little flap that's flapping around on the bottom part of your welted pocket.
[01:40:45] the bottom part of your welted pocket. Now, the width of that, we're going to
[01:40:47] Now, the width of that, we're going to cut a piece of fabric, as you can see,
[01:40:50] cut a piece of fabric, as you can see, that is a little bit wider in width,
[01:40:53] that is a little bit wider in width, as you can see right there and there,
[01:40:55] as you can see right there and there, than the actual welt sort of flap right
[01:40:58] than the actual welt sort of flap right there. The reason it's going to be wider
[01:41:00] there. The reason it's going to be wider is cuz we're going to lay it front
[01:41:01] is cuz we're going to lay it front facing, so good sides together. We're
[01:41:04] facing, so good sides together. We're going to lay it on the sort of strip,
[01:41:06] going to lay it on the sort of strip, that little rectangle like this. You can
[01:41:08] that little rectangle like this. You can sort of hold these together. And then
[01:41:10] sort of hold these together. And then flip that round. And what we're going to
[01:41:13] flip that round. And what we're going to do is we're going to stitch along this
[01:41:16] do is we're going to stitch along this line right here. And this is going to
[01:41:18] line right here. And this is going to implement our sort of like pocket bag
[01:41:20] implement our sort of like pocket bag into the pocket. It's going to help us
[01:41:21] into the pocket. It's going to help us construct it together. You can throw
[01:41:23] construct it together. You can throw some pins in this, but I feel confident
[01:41:25] some pins in this, but I feel confident enough to just pull this over to the
[01:41:27] enough to just pull this over to the machine holding it together. And we're
[01:41:30] machine holding it together. And we're going to put it under the sewing foot.
[01:41:31] going to put it under the sewing foot. We're going to stitch along. Making sure
[01:41:34] We're going to stitch along. Making sure you're stitching quite close to where
[01:41:35] you're stitching quite close to where this flap is right here.
[01:41:41] So now what you can see once we've
[01:41:43] So now what you can see once we've stitched down that line to the bottom
[01:41:45] stitched down that line to the bottom rectangle and they're both obviously
[01:41:47] rectangle and they're both obviously good sides together. You can see that
[01:41:50] good sides together. You can see that when we turn this the right way up, you
[01:41:52] when we turn this the right way up, you can see that this acts as our sort of
[01:41:55] can see that this acts as our sort of pocket inside pocket bag. Now we can
[01:41:57] pocket inside pocket bag. Now we can actually flip this over and you can see
[01:42:00] actually flip this over and you can see that that would be our pocket bag right
[01:42:02] that that would be our pocket bag right there. But before we actually stitch all
[01:42:04] there. But before we actually stitch all this pocket bag together, I'm just going
[01:42:06] this pocket bag together, I'm just going to hit a top stitch along this top part.
[01:42:08] to hit a top stitch along this top part. So, make sure that all of the rest of
[01:42:10] So, make sure that all of the rest of your front panel is out the way. Just
[01:42:13] your front panel is out the way. Just fully out the way up underneath.
[01:42:16] fully out the way up underneath. And we're going to do a top stitch all
[01:42:18] And we're going to do a top stitch all along this part right here.
[01:42:25] Now, we've top stitched it. You can sort
[01:42:28] Now, we've top stitched it. You can sort of naturally see that the fabric of the
[01:42:30] of naturally see that the fabric of the pocket bag wants to run the good way
[01:42:32] pocket bag wants to run the good way that we want it to go. And if you're
[01:42:34] that we want it to go. And if you're kind of confused with the direction of
[01:42:36] kind of confused with the direction of what's happening right now, you've got
[01:42:38] what's happening right now, you've got your armhole here. And then this is your
[01:42:40] your armhole here. And then this is your center front of the jacket. And then
[01:42:42] center front of the jacket. And then your pocket bag is obviously going to
[01:42:44] your pocket bag is obviously going to run this way. So what we're going to do
[01:42:45] run this way. So what we're going to do is we're going to fold this pocket bag
[01:42:47] is we're going to fold this pocket bag in half. Making sure that it's nice and
[01:42:49] in half. Making sure that it's nice and equal.
[01:42:52] equal. I'm going to throw one singular pin just
[01:42:54] I'm going to throw one singular pin just in here to keep it in place. Maybe two.
[01:42:56] in here to keep it in place. Maybe two. Now we can flip it the right way up. You
[01:42:59] Now we can flip it the right way up. You can see that pocket bag is starting to
[01:43:01] can see that pocket bag is starting to build there. And the way we're going to
[01:43:03] build there. And the way we're going to stitch it together is, as you can see,
[01:43:05] stitch it together is, as you can see, the pocket bag material is now over the
[01:43:08] the pocket bag material is now over the top of our sort of stitching that we've
[01:43:11] top of our sort of stitching that we've just done here. So, we're actually going
[01:43:13] just done here. So, we're actually going to make a really sort of like intricate
[01:43:15] to make a really sort of like intricate stitch that runs along the same stitch
[01:43:17] stitch that runs along the same stitch that we have just made up here. And then
[01:43:19] that we have just made up here. And then we're going to close this off by just
[01:43:21] we're going to close this off by just going to the end of this part right
[01:43:24] going to the end of this part right here. So, we're going to stitch starting
[01:43:26] here. So, we're going to stitch starting from up here all the way along that
[01:43:28] from up here all the way along that stitch we've just made. And then just
[01:43:30] stitch we've just made. And then just back down. And then we can run a bit of
[01:43:32] back down. And then we can run a bit of a back and forth stitch here to sort of
[01:43:33] a back and forth stitch here to sort of secure the bag in place. And then we'll
[01:43:35] secure the bag in place. And then we'll close it from the inside.
[01:43:47] So now you can see that we've actually
[01:43:49] So now you can see that we've actually closed out that pocket bag. So on the
[01:43:51] closed out that pocket bag. So on the inside it's actually attached to the
[01:43:53] inside it's actually attached to the flap. We have stitched over that stitch
[01:43:54] flap. We have stitched over that stitch that we made, keeping it right on on the
[01:43:57] that we made, keeping it right on on the same line so it doesn't obviously look
[01:43:59] same line so it doesn't obviously look unneat. And then obviously you can put
[01:44:01] unneat. And then obviously you can put your hand in the pocket bag. But to
[01:44:02] your hand in the pocket bag. But to finish this, what we want to do is we
[01:44:04] finish this, what we want to do is we just want to flip the side of the front
[01:44:07] just want to flip the side of the front panel out the way. And we're actually
[01:44:09] panel out the way. And we're actually just going to stitch a straight line all
[01:44:11] just going to stitch a straight line all the way over edge material right here of
[01:44:14] the way over edge material right here of the rectangle all the way down to close
[01:44:16] the rectangle all the way down to close off this bag. Because at the moment the
[01:44:18] off this bag. Because at the moment the bag is open on the side.
[01:44:24] Should look something like this. And we
[01:44:26] Should look something like this. And we can trim all of this area off in a
[01:44:28] can trim all of this area off in a minute.
[01:44:29] minute. If you have an over locker, would be
[01:44:31] If you have an over locker, would be better for you to overlock all of this
[01:44:33] better for you to overlock all of this edge as it would be super super clean.
[01:44:37] edge as it would be super super clean. And then from the other side, we're just
[01:44:39] And then from the other side, we're just going to do the exact same thing where
[01:44:40] going to do the exact same thing where we're folding over the front panel and
[01:44:42] we're folding over the front panel and we're stitching all the way up across
[01:44:44] we're stitching all the way up across this loose edge sort of section here and
[01:44:47] this loose edge sort of section here and then finishing it off. And then we can
[01:44:48] then finishing it off. And then we can trim the excess in a minute.
[01:44:56] Now we can see that if we flip over
[01:44:58] Now we can see that if we flip over that, we can see we've closed our pocket
[01:44:59] that, we can see we've closed our pocket bag up. And now we can trim some excess
[01:45:02] bag up. And now we can trim some excess off that. And we can do the exact same
[01:45:04] off that. And we can do the exact same thing for the other side where we just
[01:45:07] thing for the other side where we just trim the excess off here.
[01:45:11] trim the excess off here. And now you can see that you have a full
[01:45:13] And now you can see that you have a full functioning pocket bag. During this
[01:45:16] functioning pocket bag. During this process, if you wanted to add a button
[01:45:19] process, if you wanted to add a button to the flap of your pocket, you can
[01:45:22] to the flap of your pocket, you can either add that now and then integrate
[01:45:24] either add that now and then integrate that button, line it up, and place it
[01:45:27] that button, line it up, and place it somewhere around here. Making sure that
[01:45:29] somewhere around here. Making sure that it lines up perfectly. I might do that
[01:45:31] it lines up perfectly. I might do that now. I might not. I haven't figured it
[01:45:34] now. I might not. I haven't figured it out. But the pocket bag is now finished.
[01:45:36] out. But the pocket bag is now finished. You can see that it functions from the
[01:45:38] You can see that it functions from the inside, which is super super nice. And
[01:45:41] inside, which is super super nice. And yeah, you're just basically doing the
[01:45:42] yeah, you're just basically doing the exact same procedure for the other side
[01:45:44] exact same procedure for the other side of the jacket. I've already done it off
[01:45:46] of the jacket. I've already done it off camera. So, we will now move on to the
[01:45:48] camera. So, we will now move on to the next step. But with both the welted
[01:45:50] next step. But with both the welted pocket and the pocket bag integrated,
[01:45:53] pocket and the pocket bag integrated, this is what it looks like right now.
[01:45:56] this is what it looks like right now. And what you can do again is you can
[01:45:57] And what you can do again is you can overlock all of these edges. My over
[01:46:00] overlock all of these edges. My over locker is completely broken, but you can
[01:46:02] locker is completely broken, but you can overlock the edges and it will super
[01:46:04] overlock the edges and it will super clean up your pocket bags. That is your
[01:46:07] clean up your pocket bags. That is your pocket construction. I just thought I'd
[01:46:08] pocket construction. I just thought I'd explain something. Now, you should have
[01:46:10] explain something. Now, you should have both your pockets completed with pocket
[01:46:12] both your pockets completed with pocket bags. Whether that is your welt with the
[01:46:14] bags. Whether that is your welt with the zip or whether that is the bottom one
[01:46:17] zip or whether that is the bottom one with the flap, the procedure is
[01:46:19] with the flap, the procedure is basically the same for the flap and the
[01:46:22] basically the same for the flap and the welted pocket without the flap. You've
[01:46:24] welted pocket without the flap. You've just got to give the flap a little bit
[01:46:26] just got to give the flap a little bit more space with them stitching marks
[01:46:28] more space with them stitching marks that I mentioned going a few millimeters
[01:46:30] that I mentioned going a few millimeters out. But if you were confused by
[01:46:32] out. But if you were confused by anything that I have said in this
[01:46:34] anything that I have said in this specific tutorial, I do have a way more
[01:46:37] specific tutorial, I do have a way more in-depth welted pocket tutorial which
[01:46:38] in-depth welted pocket tutorial which I've spoke about a million times in this
[01:46:40] I've spoke about a million times in this video. So that one will really help you
[01:46:42] video. So that one will really help you with understanding the core sort of you
[01:46:44] with understanding the core sort of you know aspects of how to build a welted
[01:46:47] know aspects of how to build a welted pocket the functionality of that
[01:46:49] pocket the functionality of that triangle on the end. So if you were
[01:46:51] triangle on the end. So if you were confused slightly by anything that I
[01:46:53] confused slightly by anything that I have said in this tutorial for the flat
[01:46:55] have said in this tutorial for the flat pocket then you can head over there. If
[01:46:58] pocket then you can head over there. If you have completed it then let's move
[01:47:00] you have completed it then let's move on. So now we have finished with the
[01:47:02] on. So now we have finished with the front panels and we have three other
[01:47:05] front panels and we have three other things to sort of focus on here in front
[01:47:08] things to sort of focus on here in front of me. We have the zip cover for the
[01:47:11] of me. We have the zip cover for the inside zip cover for the inside of the
[01:47:13] inside zip cover for the inside of the zip. And then we have the back panel,
[01:47:15] zip. And then we have the back panel, which literally nothing but any branding
[01:47:18] which literally nothing but any branding that you want to add needs to happen to
[01:47:19] that you want to add needs to happen to this. And then we have the sleeves,
[01:47:22] this. And then we have the sleeves, which need to go together the exact same
[01:47:24] which need to go together the exact same way we did the lining. So, I'm going to
[01:47:26] way we did the lining. So, I'm going to film me putting the sleeves together,
[01:47:28] film me putting the sleeves together, but I'm not going to explain it. We can
[01:47:30] but I'm not going to explain it. We can sort of fast forward through that
[01:47:32] sort of fast forward through that process cuz I've already showed you how
[01:47:33] process cuz I've already showed you how to do it. So, the zip cover, I will
[01:47:36] to do it. So, the zip cover, I will obviously show you how to do this. the
[01:47:38] obviously show you how to do this. the sleeves. I will show you how to do it,
[01:47:40] sleeves. I will show you how to do it, but I won't I won't sort of teach you.
[01:47:42] but I won't I won't sort of teach you. You've already seen that with the
[01:47:43] You've already seen that with the lining. And then this back piece, I'm
[01:47:45] lining. And then this back piece, I'm going to move it with my front pieces
[01:47:47] going to move it with my front pieces because I don't actually want to add any
[01:47:49] because I don't actually want to add any branding. If you chose to do the arrow
[01:47:52] branding. If you chose to do the arrow rough cut, the back of the jacket
[01:47:54] rough cut, the back of the jacket actually has a panled system which
[01:47:56] actually has a panled system which basically has this really nice pleat in
[01:47:58] basically has this really nice pleat in which I mentioned earlier in the video.
[01:48:00] which I mentioned earlier in the video. You can go to the other video in Italy.
[01:48:03] You can go to the other video in Italy. I show you completely how to do this
[01:48:05] I show you completely how to do this process. But for the Aero Classic, we're
[01:48:07] process. But for the Aero Classic, we're not actually going to. So, the back
[01:48:09] not actually going to. So, the back panel can go over with the finish panels
[01:48:12] panel can go over with the finish panels and we can focus on these sleeves. I'll
[01:48:14] and we can focus on these sleeves. I'll film how to do them. And then right here
[01:48:17] film how to do them. And then right here is your zip cover. I'll show you how to
[01:48:19] is your zip cover. I'll show you how to do that after. So, let's do it.
[01:48:58] So you have now just sewn sewn the long
[01:49:01] So you have now just sewn sewn the long parts of both sleeve panels together and
[01:49:04] parts of both sleeve panels together and done the top stitch on your outer shell
[01:49:07] done the top stitch on your outer shell sleeves. There is two other panels
[01:49:09] sleeves. There is two other panels within your pattern piece that you can
[01:49:11] within your pattern piece that you can cut out of some excess fabric. There is
[01:49:14] cut out of some excess fabric. There is the sleeve zipper pocket and the sleeve
[01:49:16] the sleeve zipper pocket and the sleeve smaller patch pocket. This one is 3 in
[01:49:21] smaller patch pocket. This one is 3 in by 5 and this one is 5 in by six. And
[01:49:26] by 5 and this one is 5 in by six. And pretty much you've got these two panels.
[01:49:28] pretty much you've got these two panels. And the way we're going to integrate
[01:49:29] And the way we're going to integrate these and sort of construct them
[01:49:30] these and sort of construct them together is so it creates that sort of
[01:49:33] together is so it creates that sort of really nice sort of uh you know sleeve
[01:49:36] really nice sort of uh you know sleeve patch zip utility MA1 pocket. Let me
[01:49:40] patch zip utility MA1 pocket. Let me show you. So when it's fully done, it
[01:49:42] show you. So when it's fully done, it should look very very similar to this.
[01:49:44] should look very very similar to this. It should have a patch pocket on the top
[01:49:46] It should have a patch pocket on the top just on the bigger side and then the zip
[01:49:48] just on the bigger side and then the zip sort of splitting up a little part of
[01:49:49] sort of splitting up a little part of the fabric with the hem of the main
[01:49:52] the fabric with the hem of the main zipper pocket double folded. and you can
[01:49:55] zipper pocket double folded. and you can open the pocket as soon as the zip is
[01:49:57] open the pocket as soon as the zip is zipped all the way down. That is the
[01:49:58] zipped all the way down. That is the goal here. So, we got the two panels.
[01:50:00] goal here. So, we got the two panels. We're going to integrate the zipper into
[01:50:02] We're going to integrate the zipper into the bigger panel. And then we're
[01:50:04] the bigger panel. And then we're basically going to fold this one enough
[01:50:07] basically going to fold this one enough so we can sort of wait and do this once
[01:50:09] so we can sort of wait and do this once we've constructed all of this one. So,
[01:50:10] we've constructed all of this one. So, we're going to fold this one enough so
[01:50:12] we're going to fold this one enough so it works as a patch pocket that sits
[01:50:14] it works as a patch pocket that sits around there. I made this bigger so you
[01:50:16] around there. I made this bigger so you guys can fold it in and then you can cut
[01:50:18] guys can fold it in and then you can cut the excess afterwards. The way we're
[01:50:20] the excess afterwards. The way we're going to integrate the zipper is kind of
[01:50:21] going to integrate the zipper is kind of the same as what we did for the hood and
[01:50:24] the same as what we did for the hood and the fishtail hood sort of opening. We'll
[01:50:26] the fishtail hood sort of opening. We'll flip it over. We'll make sure that
[01:50:27] flip it over. We'll make sure that there's enough sort of space. The zip
[01:50:30] there's enough sort of space. The zip size you'll need for this is 5 1/2 in. I
[01:50:33] size you'll need for this is 5 1/2 in. I trimmed down a Talon closed end zipper
[01:50:36] trimmed down a Talon closed end zipper and it's going to work perfectly for me.
[01:50:38] and it's going to work perfectly for me. We're going to place it down just like
[01:50:39] We're going to place it down just like this. And there should be more gap at
[01:50:41] this. And there should be more gap at the top than there is at the bottom.
[01:50:43] the top than there is at the bottom. We're going to stitch with a zipper foot
[01:50:45] We're going to stitch with a zipper foot all the way down here. And then we're
[01:50:47] all the way down here. And then we're going to do the same procedure where we
[01:50:48] going to do the same procedure where we open the other side and then flip it
[01:50:51] open the other side and then flip it round twice just like this and then
[01:50:53] round twice just like this and then stitch it all the way down. And then we
[01:50:56] stitch it all the way down. And then we cut it and it should, you know, when you
[01:50:58] cut it and it should, you know, when you zip it back up, it should open up
[01:51:00] zip it back up, it should open up perfectly. And we can cut the underneath
[01:51:02] perfectly. And we can cut the underneath fabric. And that will sort of construct
[01:51:04] fabric. And that will sort of construct that. We can then hit these both sides
[01:51:06] that. We can then hit these both sides with two top stitches. And then we're
[01:51:07] with two top stitches. And then we're going to work on folding all the edges
[01:51:09] going to work on folding all the edges round. When all the edges are folded,
[01:51:12] round. When all the edges are folded, then we can sort of iron this and sort
[01:51:14] then we can sort of iron this and sort of fold this to how big we want the
[01:51:16] of fold this to how big we want the patch pocket. We're going to try and
[01:51:18] patch pocket. We're going to try and double hem the top of the sort of sleeve
[01:51:21] double hem the top of the sort of sleeve pocket, this bigger one. And we're also
[01:51:23] pocket, this bigger one. And we're also going to double hem this patch pocket.
[01:51:25] going to double hem this patch pocket. So, let's just start with the zip. And
[01:51:27] So, let's just start with the zip. And then we'll move on to everything else.
[01:51:34] It should have something just like this.
[01:51:36] It should have something just like this. And again, we're going to double flip it
[01:51:38] And again, we're going to double flip it over so that it looks something like
[01:51:41] over so that it looks something like that right there. And then again, we're
[01:51:43] that right there. And then again, we're going to sew all the way down this tape.
[01:51:45] going to sew all the way down this tape. And then we can start cutting it and
[01:51:47] And then we can start cutting it and then finish this side piece off because
[01:51:49] then finish this side piece off because obviously you can't stitch like I showed
[01:51:51] obviously you can't stitch like I showed you on the hood. You can't stitch it
[01:51:52] you on the hood. You can't stitch it when the the zip sort of puller is in
[01:51:55] when the the zip sort of puller is in the way.
[01:52:02] Cut directly down the middle.
[01:52:06] Cut directly down the middle. Once that is sliced, you can open it up
[01:52:09] Once that is sliced, you can open it up and then you can pull the zipper
[01:52:12] and then you can pull the zipper and finish off that stitch.
[01:52:17] Now we have the zipper implemented in.
[01:52:19] Now we have the zipper implemented in. So now what we want to do is hit this
[01:52:21] So now what we want to do is hit this with a top stitch all the way down. I
[01:52:23] with a top stitch all the way down. I had to patch loads of pieces of fabric
[01:52:25] had to patch loads of pieces of fabric together for this because I didn't have
[01:52:28] together for this because I didn't have enough. This is excess fabric from
[01:52:30] enough. This is excess fabric from Italy. So I'm sort of making do with
[01:52:32] Italy. So I'm sort of making do with what I can. If you're wondering why
[01:52:34] what I can. If you're wondering why these pieces are panled together,
[01:52:44] just going to trim off any excess zip on
[01:52:46] just going to trim off any excess zip on the bottom, which is going to make it
[01:52:48] the bottom, which is going to make it easier for when we're folding. And
[01:52:50] easier for when we're folding. And essentially what we're going to do now
[01:52:52] essentially what we're going to do now is this bigger part on the left here,
[01:52:56] is this bigger part on the left here, this one is going to be hemmed double at
[01:52:59] this one is going to be hemmed double at the top because it's going to open all
[01:53:01] the top because it's going to open all the way around here is going to be
[01:53:02] the way around here is going to be stitched to the sleeve, but not the top
[01:53:06] stitched to the sleeve, but not the top of this bigger part on the left. This is
[01:53:08] of this bigger part on the left. This is because it will open the same as what I
[01:53:10] because it will open the same as what I showed you just a minute ago. Everywhere
[01:53:12] showed you just a minute ago. Everywhere pretty much needs a single fold and an
[01:53:14] pretty much needs a single fold and an iron except from this top part which
[01:53:17] iron except from this top part which needs a double fold and to be hemmed.
[01:53:19] needs a double fold and to be hemmed. The way you're going to do that is we
[01:53:21] The way you're going to do that is we can move the zip out the way. You can
[01:53:23] can move the zip out the way. You can fold it once, have a tiny little fold
[01:53:25] fold it once, have a tiny little fold there, and then fold it twice.
[01:53:28] there, and then fold it twice. And that should perfectly sit at the top
[01:53:30] And that should perfectly sit at the top of your zipper. And then we can sort of
[01:53:34] of your zipper. And then we can sort of turn this over. Make sure it's nice and
[01:53:36] turn this over. Make sure it's nice and accurate.
[01:53:39] accurate. Then we can run a stitch all the way
[01:53:40] Then we can run a stitch all the way down that.
[01:53:45] As you can see, that just closes up that
[01:53:47] As you can see, that just closes up that top hem. And then everything else now
[01:53:50] top hem. And then everything else now just either needs you to go and press it
[01:53:53] just either needs you to go and press it one singular fold all the way around. Or
[01:53:56] one singular fold all the way around. Or if you're like me and you don't want to
[01:53:58] if you're like me and you don't want to use an iron cuz you're an idiot, then
[01:54:00] use an iron cuz you're an idiot, then just do a single fold all the way around
[01:54:01] just do a single fold all the way around and make sure you throw a pin whilst
[01:54:03] and make sure you throw a pin whilst you're going. I'm going to use pins just
[01:54:05] you're going. I'm going to use pins just to hold my fold down. And then we can
[01:54:07] to hold my fold down. And then we can sort of uh realign the pins with the
[01:54:10] sort of uh realign the pins with the main sleeve when we get there.
[01:54:27] So, what we want to do now is we want to
[01:54:28] So, what we want to do now is we want to add this patch pocket. I'm kind of going
[01:54:30] add this patch pocket. I'm kind of going off the design here. As I just
[01:54:32] off the design here. As I just mentioned, I instead of ironing, I'm
[01:54:35] mentioned, I instead of ironing, I'm just doing a rough sort of like pin and
[01:54:37] just doing a rough sort of like pin and fold. And then when it gets to placing
[01:54:39] fold. And then when it gets to placing this on the actual sleeve itself, I will
[01:54:41] this on the actual sleeve itself, I will clean it up and make sure it looks
[01:54:42] clean it up and make sure it looks perfect. This right here is obviously
[01:54:44] perfect. This right here is obviously way too big for a patch pocket. We're
[01:54:46] way too big for a patch pocket. We're going to try and fit this little patch
[01:54:48] going to try and fit this little patch pocket in this little gap right here.
[01:54:50] pocket in this little gap right here. I'm sort of running with the patchwork
[01:54:52] I'm sort of running with the patchwork design we've got because it's sort of
[01:54:54] design we've got because it's sort of all we have. We've had to piece together
[01:54:56] all we have. We've had to piece together all these pieces to be able to build
[01:54:58] all these pieces to be able to build these two up because as I mentioned
[01:55:00] these two up because as I mentioned using the back end of the Italy fabric,
[01:55:02] using the back end of the Italy fabric, but it's all part of the fun, I think. I
[01:55:05] but it's all part of the fun, I think. I hope this jacket is going to come out
[01:55:07] hope this jacket is going to come out looking amazing. It will 100% and so
[01:55:09] looking amazing. It will 100% and so will yours. I'm just going to mega
[01:55:11] will yours. I'm just going to mega double fold this in so it's super small
[01:55:13] double fold this in so it's super small like something like that. It'll just
[01:55:15] like something like that. It'll just have to sit as like a little coin pocket
[01:55:17] have to sit as like a little coin pocket or something like that, you know? Yeah,
[01:55:18] or something like that, you know? Yeah, we'll we'll see. That sort of width
[01:55:20] we'll we'll see. That sort of width looks nice. Maybe I can sort of push it
[01:55:22] looks nice. Maybe I can sort of push it a little bit wider. So, yeah, let's
[01:55:23] a little bit wider. So, yeah, let's let's do that. So once you figure out
[01:55:25] let's do that. So once you figure out the width of how much you want this sort
[01:55:27] the width of how much you want this sort of patch pocket, which I'm going to
[01:55:29] of patch pocket, which I'm going to match that up there perfectly. I'm going
[01:55:31] match that up there perfectly. I'm going to fold this piece in. That should be
[01:55:33] to fold this piece in. That should be nice right there. And then I'll do it
[01:55:36] nice right there. And then I'll do it this way so the patchwork stays
[01:55:37] this way so the patchwork stays consistent throughout the whole thing.
[01:55:39] consistent throughout the whole thing. That looks really, really nice. So now
[01:55:41] That looks really, really nice. So now what we're going to do is we're going to
[01:55:43] what we're going to do is we're going to double fold. Do the same double fold for
[01:55:45] double fold. Do the same double fold for the hem as we did on the main sleeve
[01:55:49] the hem as we did on the main sleeve opening for the top right here. So we
[01:55:51] opening for the top right here. So we know the width. We're just going to hit
[01:55:53] know the width. We're just going to hit a little fold and then another fold
[01:55:56] a little fold and then another fold after that. This is a bit of a bigger
[01:55:57] after that. This is a bit of a bigger sort of hem. So I might have to add two
[01:55:59] sort of hem. So I might have to add two stitches on this, but I'm just going to
[01:56:01] stitches on this, but I'm just going to hold this in place. You can use pins or
[01:56:03] hold this in place. You can use pins or iron if you using something like denim.
[01:56:05] iron if you using something like denim. It's like super impossible to iron this
[01:56:07] It's like super impossible to iron this fabric because polyester and the wax
[01:56:09] fabric because polyester and the wax just keeps it from bouncing back off.
[01:56:11] just keeps it from bouncing back off. But that's my hem. We know our width.
[01:56:13] But that's my hem. We know our width. And then we're going to hem the top,
[01:56:14] And then we're going to hem the top, fold and pin the bottom, and then
[01:56:16] fold and pin the bottom, and then integrate that into this right there.
[01:56:21] I think a single stitch on that hem is
[01:56:23] I think a single stitch on that hem is quite nice. So, I might keep it just
[01:56:25] quite nice. So, I might keep it just like that. And then I can remove that
[01:56:28] like that. And then I can remove that pin and add it the other side now. And
[01:56:31] pin and add it the other side now. And then I'm going to hem the bottom. And we
[01:56:33] then I'm going to hem the bottom. And we can cut the excess afterwards.
[01:56:37] can cut the excess afterwards. Making sure that's level and folded over
[01:56:40] Making sure that's level and folded over nicely.
[01:56:42] nicely. I'm just going to run a stitch all along
[01:56:43] I'm just going to run a stitch all along the bottom. And then I'm going to pin it
[01:56:45] the bottom. And then I'm going to pin it in place.
[01:56:47] in place. Oh, I'm just going to pin this pocket in
[01:56:49] Oh, I'm just going to pin this pocket in place. I'm going to try and sort of
[01:56:51] place. I'm going to try and sort of follow this stitch I've made over here
[01:56:54] follow this stitch I've made over here and sort of make it look like it's part
[01:56:55] and sort of make it look like it's part of it. Remember when you're stitching
[01:56:57] of it. Remember when you're stitching this pocket in, we're not stitching the
[01:56:59] this pocket in, we're not stitching the top because it needs to stay open. And
[01:57:01] top because it needs to stay open. And we're doing this before obviously
[01:57:03] we're doing this before obviously integrating it onto the sleeve mainly
[01:57:05] integrating it onto the sleeve mainly because otherwise you'll be stitching it
[01:57:08] because otherwise you'll be stitching it all down to the sleeve. So I'm just
[01:57:10] all down to the sleeve. So I'm just going to run some pins just to keep and
[01:57:12] going to run some pins just to keep and hold it in place.
[01:57:17] And just like that, I'm going to stitch
[01:57:19] And just like that, I'm going to stitch that all around.
[01:57:32] So now what I'm going to do is I'm going
[01:57:34] So now what I'm going to do is I'm going to make sure that I don't pin this top
[01:57:36] to make sure that I don't pin this top hem right here. And I'm going to start
[01:57:38] hem right here. And I'm going to start just replacing these pins and making
[01:57:40] just replacing these pins and making sure I go through three layers of the
[01:57:42] sure I go through three layers of the fabric. So I'm basically pinning it to
[01:57:45] fabric. So I'm basically pinning it to the main sleeve cap. You can see that
[01:57:47] the main sleeve cap. You can see that this right here is the sleeve cap. We
[01:57:48] this right here is the sleeve cap. We have our smaller piece, our bigger
[01:57:50] have our smaller piece, our bigger piece. There is a reference for where to
[01:57:52] piece. There is a reference for where to place this pattern piece on the pattern
[01:57:54] place this pattern piece on the pattern itself, but I'm just going to freehand
[01:57:56] itself, but I'm just going to freehand this because like I said, gave the
[01:57:58] this because like I said, gave the pattern to Max.
[01:58:31] And this right here is what my finished
[01:58:33] And this right here is what my finished sleeve pocket looks like with that
[01:58:35] sleeve pocket looks like with that hemmed and not stitched top. I think
[01:58:38] hemmed and not stitched top. I think that looks so so so good. And the
[01:58:40] that looks so so so good. And the patchwork kind of just like builds that
[01:58:42] patchwork kind of just like builds that sort of utilitarian style in it. I'm not
[01:58:45] sort of utilitarian style in it. I'm not even mad about how it looks. I think it
[01:58:47] even mad about how it looks. I think it looks really good. You got the little
[01:58:48] looks really good. You got the little coin pocket that works. Some snippers in
[01:58:50] coin pocket that works. Some snippers in there. And yeah, banging. Let's move on
[01:58:53] there. And yeah, banging. Let's move on to the next stage. I hope you managed to
[01:58:56] to the next stage. I hope you managed to figure out what I was doing here. If
[01:58:58] figure out what I was doing here. If you're a little bit cleaner than me,
[01:58:59] you're a little bit cleaner than me, then you probably would use an iron on
[01:59:01] then you probably would use an iron on these side pieces and cut um you know,
[01:59:04] these side pieces and cut um you know, this a bit smaller. But I kind of just
[01:59:07] this a bit smaller. But I kind of just was working with what I had. Each panel
[01:59:09] was working with what I had. Each panel piece is perfect if you've got the right
[01:59:11] piece is perfect if you've got the right size zipper. I think we also showed how
[01:59:13] size zipper. I think we also showed how to Well, we definitely showed how to do
[01:59:15] to Well, we definitely showed how to do this in the Italy vlog, too. And I think
[01:59:18] this in the Italy vlog, too. And I think the one that we did on the other jacket,
[01:59:20] the one that we did on the other jacket, the rough cut jacket, was a lot cleaner
[01:59:21] the rough cut jacket, was a lot cleaner than this. So, if you wanted to go and
[01:59:23] than this. So, if you wanted to go and watch the other video, too, you are
[01:59:25] watch the other video, too, you are welcome to. We just finished the patch
[01:59:27] welcome to. We just finished the patch pocket on the sleeve with the zipper
[01:59:30] pocket on the sleeve with the zipper integrated, and I'm really, really happy
[01:59:32] integrated, and I'm really, really happy with it. Like I just said, I think it's
[01:59:33] with it. Like I just said, I think it's amazing. And I just wanted to point out
[01:59:35] amazing. And I just wanted to point out that you can see when this is flat, it
[01:59:38] that you can see when this is flat, it naturally has that volume which wants to
[01:59:41] naturally has that volume which wants to go under your arm. And again, that is
[01:59:43] go under your arm. And again, that is the volume we're talking about with like
[01:59:45] the volume we're talking about with like the Heritage MA1 bombers. There's a lot
[01:59:47] the Heritage MA1 bombers. There's a lot of patterns out there that try to
[01:59:48] of patterns out there that try to replicate this design. And maybe they do
[01:59:52] replicate this design. And maybe they do do it amazing, but some of the ones that
[01:59:54] do it amazing, but some of the ones that I've seen, they kind of cut corners and
[01:59:56] I've seen, they kind of cut corners and don't really add the volume in the right
[01:59:58] don't really add the volume in the right place. So, you know, it's trying to
[02:00:00] place. So, you know, it's trying to really pay homage to that design and
[02:00:02] really pay homage to that design and really help you make something that
[02:00:03] really help you make something that feels authentic to the, you know, true
[02:00:07] feels authentic to the, you know, true design of why these flight jackets were
[02:00:09] design of why these flight jackets were made. What I'm going to do off camera
[02:00:11] made. What I'm going to do off camera now, or maybe we'll film it, but I won't
[02:00:13] now, or maybe we'll film it, but I won't explain it, is that you're just folding
[02:00:15] explain it, is that you're just folding this with the front facing together, and
[02:00:18] this with the front facing together, and we're stitching like we did with the
[02:00:20] we're stitching like we did with the lining all the way down the small length
[02:00:23] lining all the way down the small length and then top stitching it from the
[02:00:25] and then top stitching it from the inside. that really annoying inside top
[02:00:27] inside. that really annoying inside top stitch. And then once that's done, we'll
[02:00:29] stitch. And then once that's done, we'll do the same thing for the other side.
[02:00:31] do the same thing for the other side. And then we'll have two finished
[02:00:33] And then we'll have two finished sleeves. After that is finished, we will
[02:00:35] sleeves. After that is finished, we will sew the zip cover and just do all them
[02:00:38] sew the zip cover and just do all them lines that run down to make it super
[02:00:40] lines that run down to make it super nice and malleable. And then we're on to
[02:00:43] nice and malleable. And then we're on to finishing this jacket and constructing.
[02:00:46] finishing this jacket and constructing. I didn't think it would take this long,
[02:00:47] I didn't think it would take this long, but I'm not unhappy cuz hopefully you
[02:00:49] but I'm not unhappy cuz hopefully you guys are with me. In these longer format
[02:00:51] guys are with me. In these longer format videos, people were sort of asking for
[02:00:54] videos, people were sort of asking for me to sort of keep the long format in it
[02:00:57] me to sort of keep the long format in it and not to skip pieces and you can maybe
[02:00:59] and not to skip pieces and you can maybe see some of my imperfections. I think
[02:01:01] see some of my imperfections. I think that makes these videos a little bit
[02:01:03] that makes these videos a little bit true and authentic. I think with
[02:01:05] true and authentic. I think with designing clothes in general, like there
[02:01:07] designing clothes in general, like there is no like perfect designer that can sew
[02:01:09] is no like perfect designer that can sew everything absolutely perfect. I'm still
[02:01:12] everything absolutely perfect. I'm still going to have my little mistakes
[02:01:13] going to have my little mistakes throughout the tutorial. maybe you've
[02:01:15] throughout the tutorial. maybe you've been able to catch them, like obviously
[02:01:17] been able to catch them, like obviously not having enough fabric or, you know,
[02:01:20] not having enough fabric or, you know, the thread being messed up at some
[02:01:21] the thread being messed up at some places or having that bunching on that
[02:01:24] places or having that bunching on that pocket. But I think it adds to it. I
[02:01:26] pocket. But I think it adds to it. I think obviously I'm trying to, you know,
[02:01:28] think obviously I'm trying to, you know, the patterns I'm releasing are amazing,
[02:01:29] the patterns I'm releasing are amazing, but you're always going to have a mishap
[02:01:31] but you're always going to have a mishap or so. It's just how the final garment
[02:01:34] or so. It's just how the final garment looks and then always wanting to do
[02:01:35] looks and then always wanting to do better by building another one after
[02:01:37] better by building another one after that, which is why the classic and then
[02:01:39] that, which is why the classic and then the rough cut exists. So, let's move on
[02:01:41] the rough cut exists. So, let's move on to sewing the arms. We'll film it, show
[02:01:43] to sewing the arms. We'll film it, show you, and then we'll do the zip cover.
[02:01:44] you, and then we'll do the zip cover. Then we're constructing the garment.
[02:01:46] Then we're constructing the garment. Let's go.
[02:01:59] So, I've just finished the sleeves. I
[02:02:01] So, I've just finished the sleeves. I did the top stitching underneath, too,
[02:02:04] did the top stitching underneath, too, and they look really, really nice. I'm
[02:02:05] and they look really, really nice. I'm actually so gassed to put this together.
[02:02:07] actually so gassed to put this together. I think it's going to look really nice.
[02:02:08] I think it's going to look really nice. But all the finished panels, I'm going
[02:02:10] But all the finished panels, I'm going to start moving to the side. so we can
[02:02:12] to start moving to the side. so we can sort of free up the table a little bit.
[02:02:14] sort of free up the table a little bit. Next, we are going to focus on the zip
[02:02:17] Next, we are going to focus on the zip cover. What we're going to do for the
[02:02:19] cover. What we're going to do for the zip cover is we're going to just stitch
[02:02:21] zip cover is we're going to just stitch these two sides here. This one and this
[02:02:24] these two sides here. This one and this one. And we're going to leave the folded
[02:02:26] one. And we're going to leave the folded side unstitched. And then we can
[02:02:28] side unstitched. And then we can literally turn that inside out. Turning
[02:02:31] literally turn that inside out. Turning it inside out with the two good sides
[02:02:33] it inside out with the two good sides facing each other, not the bit with the
[02:02:35] facing each other, not the bit with the insulation. And then once it's turned
[02:02:37] insulation. And then once it's turned inside out, the insulation will
[02:02:39] inside out, the insulation will naturally just go in the middle. And
[02:02:40] naturally just go in the middle. And then we can run these stitches all the
[02:02:42] then we can run these stitches all the way down. So it looks something similar
[02:02:46] way down. So it looks something similar to this right here, which looks super
[02:02:48] to this right here, which looks super super super nice.
[02:03:08] Should look something like this. It's
[02:03:09] Should look something like this. It's folded on one side. The insulation
[02:03:12] folded on one side. The insulation doesn't necessarily need to be attached
[02:03:14] doesn't necessarily need to be attached because it's attached up here. Once you
[02:03:16] because it's attached up here. Once you turn it inside out, then it will all
[02:03:18] turn it inside out, then it will all integrate into the middle. And then you
[02:03:21] integrate into the middle. And then you can sort of just line it up with pins.
[02:03:25] Just like that. You see?
[02:03:29] Just like that. You see? So, we're going to make sure that that
[02:03:30] So, we're going to make sure that that is right near that fold. Then, I'm just
[02:03:33] is right near that fold. Then, I'm just going to add some pins on the side to
[02:03:36] going to add some pins on the side to keep it in place.
[02:03:51] We're going to run a very short seam
[02:03:53] We're going to run a very short seam allowance stitch all the way around the
[02:03:55] allowance stitch all the way around the outside just to secure it in place.
[02:04:02] And then once we've done that, we're
[02:04:03] And then once we've done that, we're going to make our way round
[02:04:27] Right. So, we just finished the zip
[02:04:30] Right. So, we just finished the zip cover on the inside, and now we're
[02:04:33] cover on the inside, and now we're actually going to get to construction.
[02:04:35] actually going to get to construction. Let's finish this jacket. So, the first
[02:04:37] Let's finish this jacket. So, the first thing we're going to do is we're going
[02:04:38] thing we're going to do is we're going to lay out the back panel with the good
[02:04:41] to lay out the back panel with the good side facing upwards. And then we're
[02:04:43] side facing upwards. And then we're going to grab our front panel and face
[02:04:45] going to grab our front panel and face the good side downwards. And then we're
[02:04:47] the good side downwards. And then we're going to connect the insides of the
[02:04:50] going to connect the insides of the shoulder, the side seam. And we're going
[02:04:52] shoulder, the side seam. And we're going to do the same thing for the other side.
[02:04:55] to do the same thing for the other side. So, we're connecting this side seam
[02:04:57] So, we're connecting this side seam here, this shoulder seam here, this
[02:04:59] here, this shoulder seam here, this other shoulder seam, and finally this
[02:05:02] other shoulder seam, and finally this side seam. We're going to stitch them
[02:05:04] side seam. We're going to stitch them with a one over fourth seam allowance.
[02:05:06] with a one over fourth seam allowance. And then we will hit it with a top
[02:05:07] And then we will hit it with a top stitch with the top stitches facing the
[02:05:10] stitch with the top stitches facing the front way. So all of the excess fabric
[02:05:13] front way. So all of the excess fabric sort of faces backwards and the top
[02:05:15] sort of faces backwards and the top stitch is facing the front way. So I've
[02:05:17] stitch is facing the front way. So I've just pinned all along this side panel.
[02:05:19] just pinned all along this side panel. Shoulder, the shoulder, and the side
[02:05:21] Shoulder, the shoulder, and the side panel. We're going to run a stitch all
[02:05:22] panel. We're going to run a stitch all the way through these one over four. And
[02:05:24] the way through these one over four. And then we're going to hit them with a top
[02:05:25] then we're going to hit them with a top stitch. Like I said,
[02:05:30] when you're stitching your 1 over4 seam
[02:05:31] when you're stitching your 1 over4 seam allowance, let me show you a little
[02:05:33] allowance, let me show you a little trick.
[02:05:35] trick. When you get to the end, you can close
[02:05:37] When you get to the end, you can close off that 1 over4 seam allowance with a
[02:05:39] off that 1 over4 seam allowance with a back and forth stitch.
[02:05:42] back and forth stitch. Then what you can do, you can make sure
[02:05:44] Then what you can do, you can make sure your needle is in the fabric and you can
[02:05:46] your needle is in the fabric and you can pull the next one over so you can carry
[02:05:49] pull the next one over so you can carry on that stitch. And then you can just
[02:05:50] on that stitch. And then you can just trim the thread afterwards.
[02:06:07] So now I'm just going to hit this top
[02:06:09] So now I'm just going to hit this top stitch, but the top stitch is going to
[02:06:11] stitch, but the top stitch is going to be facing the front panel. You can see
[02:06:13] be facing the front panel. You can see here is the flat pocket over here. And
[02:06:15] here is the flat pocket over here. And all of the top stitching is going to be
[02:06:17] all of the top stitching is going to be facing inwards. This is just for
[02:06:18] facing inwards. This is just for similarity through the whole garment.
[02:06:24] You can do the same thing whilst you're
[02:06:25] You can do the same thing whilst you're top stitching where you can just place
[02:06:27] top stitching where you can just place your next one in line, stitch over the
[02:06:30] your next one in line, stitch over the gap and carry on your stitch.
[02:06:47] I've just done all the top stitching for
[02:06:49] I've just done all the top stitching for the outer shell. Now, this outer shell
[02:06:51] the outer shell. Now, this outer shell is completely together when you turn it
[02:06:53] is completely together when you turn it outside in the right way. And I'm
[02:06:55] outside in the right way. And I'm prepping to do the exact same thing with
[02:06:57] prepping to do the exact same thing with the lining. The thing is, I'm going to
[02:06:59] the lining. The thing is, I'm going to show you it on the outer shell, putting
[02:07:01] show you it on the outer shell, putting this whole thing together, but it is
[02:07:02] this whole thing together, but it is very tedious and a lot of the same
[02:07:04] very tedious and a lot of the same process like some of the things in this
[02:07:06] process like some of the things in this video. So, I've got these sleeves. I'm
[02:07:09] video. So, I've got these sleeves. I'm going to attach them. I'll show you how
[02:07:10] going to attach them. I'll show you how to do that on the outer shell. And then
[02:07:12] to do that on the outer shell. And then what I'm going to do off camera is
[02:07:14] what I'm going to do off camera is basically do the exact same thing for
[02:07:15] basically do the exact same thing for the lining. But because obviously I'm
[02:07:17] the lining. But because obviously I'm stitching on that sort of polyestery
[02:07:19] stitching on that sort of polyestery wading insulation stuff, I'm going to
[02:07:22] wading insulation stuff, I'm going to use the roller foot on this. And then
[02:07:24] use the roller foot on this. And then when these two shells are together, we
[02:07:26] when these two shells are together, we can actually focus on how we're going to
[02:07:28] can actually focus on how we're going to attach the ribbing, integrate the zip
[02:07:31] attach the ribbing, integrate the zip cover to the zip, and then put the hood
[02:07:33] cover to the zip, and then put the hood on. So we're kind of on the final
[02:07:34] on. So we're kind of on the final stretch. I would say we're a bit further
[02:07:36] stretch. I would say we're a bit further off the final stretch, but let's be
[02:07:38] off the final stretch, but let's be hopeful and say that we will finish
[02:07:40] hopeful and say that we will finish soon. It's uh Friday night for me, so I
[02:07:43] soon. It's uh Friday night for me, so I kind of want to chill for the weekend
[02:07:44] kind of want to chill for the weekend after this. And it's been go go go. So
[02:07:46] after this. And it's been go go go. So yeah, this is coming out the following
[02:07:48] yeah, this is coming out the following week. So the Friday you're seeing this
[02:07:50] week. So the Friday you're seeing this video or whatever day it is for you
[02:07:52] video or whatever day it is for you right now. It's going to be the prior
[02:07:53] right now. It's going to be the prior Friday that we're doing this. And then
[02:07:55] Friday that we're doing this. And then all the reels come out daily on the
[02:07:56] all the reels come out daily on the Instagram and stuff like that. So
[02:07:58] Instagram and stuff like that. So there's a lot of work, but we will smash
[02:08:00] there's a lot of work, but we will smash it out. I'm going to show you how to
[02:08:01] it out. I'm going to show you how to implement the arms and then I'll do them
[02:08:03] implement the arms and then I'll do them ones off camera. Let's get it. So the
[02:08:05] ones off camera. Let's get it. So the way that we're going to implement the
[02:08:07] way that we're going to implement the arms is as I said the volume sits on the
[02:08:09] arms is as I said the volume sits on the back of the sleeve. So it will sit as I
[02:08:12] back of the sleeve. So it will sit as I mentioned this sleeve would go on the
[02:08:14] mentioned this sleeve would go on the back just like that. And the volume is
[02:08:16] back just like that. And the volume is all in that curve of that long panel. So
[02:08:18] all in that curve of that long panel. So we want to make sure that this is on the
[02:08:20] we want to make sure that this is on the back. This small sort of panel is on the
[02:08:22] back. This small sort of panel is on the back and just where it's sort of you
[02:08:25] back and just where it's sort of you know one piece that bigger piece is on
[02:08:27] know one piece that bigger piece is on the front. The way we're going to do
[02:08:28] the front. The way we're going to do this is we're actually going to turn
[02:08:30] this is we're actually going to turn this back inside out.
[02:08:33] this back inside out. And then we're basically going to match
[02:08:35] And then we're basically going to match up which one is the back for this part.
[02:08:38] up which one is the back for this part. And I think that is the there. You can
[02:08:41] And I think that is the there. You can keep these the right way up. You don't
[02:08:43] keep these the right way up. You don't need to turn these inside out. We're
[02:08:44] need to turn these inside out. We're just going to slot this in.
[02:08:47] just going to slot this in. And you can see that this seam can sit
[02:08:49] And you can see that this seam can sit up the top. And this sort of smaller
[02:08:51] up the top. And this sort of smaller panel of the sleeve goes obviously to
[02:08:54] panel of the sleeve goes obviously to the back of the piece of clothing. we
[02:08:56] the back of the piece of clothing. we can match this bottom seam up with the
[02:08:59] can match this bottom seam up with the side seam of our garment. And then what
[02:09:01] side seam of our garment. And then what I'm going to do is work my way around
[02:09:03] I'm going to do is work my way around with pins all the way around the inside
[02:09:04] with pins all the way around the inside of the garment. So, if I can show you,
[02:09:06] of the garment. So, if I can show you, we're matching this is the side seam and
[02:09:09] we're matching this is the side seam and this is the bottom seam of the sleeve.
[02:09:11] this is the bottom seam of the sleeve. And we're just matching them up and
[02:09:12] And we're just matching them up and we're throwing some pins in there to
[02:09:15] we're throwing some pins in there to keep it in place. Then we can sort of
[02:09:17] keep it in place. Then we can sort of stretch this out. See that it does fit
[02:09:19] stretch this out. See that it does fit nicely. Then we're going to work our way
[02:09:21] nicely. Then we're going to work our way around with pins and make sure that
[02:09:23] around with pins and make sure that we're not bunching fabric on the way.
[02:09:35] To be honest, I feel confident enough
[02:09:37] To be honest, I feel confident enough that I can do this without pins, but you
[02:09:39] that I can do this without pins, but you can go all the way around if you choose
[02:09:41] can go all the way around if you choose to.
[02:09:45] So, I'm starting to stitch from the
[02:09:48] So, I'm starting to stitch from the bottom seam of the sleeve slash the side
[02:09:50] bottom seam of the sleeve slash the side seam of the garment. And I'm just going
[02:09:52] seam of the garment. And I'm just going to follow that 1 over4 seam allowance
[02:09:54] to follow that 1 over4 seam allowance all the way round. And I might actually
[02:09:56] all the way round. And I might actually take a few pins out just so I know that
[02:09:59] take a few pins out just so I know that I can line it up by hand as I go.
[02:10:08] Just like that. So, I guess the kind of
[02:10:11] Just like that. So, I guess the kind of annoying part of this is now running the
[02:10:13] annoying part of this is now running the top stitch down and around the sleeve.
[02:10:16] top stitch down and around the sleeve. You've got to make sure that all the
[02:10:17] You've got to make sure that all the fabric is out the way on the inside. And
[02:10:19] fabric is out the way on the inside. And we're going to try and sort of get this
[02:10:21] we're going to try and sort of get this into our sewing foot. And then run the
[02:10:23] into our sewing foot. And then run the top stitch. Loose fabric is facing
[02:10:25] top stitch. Loose fabric is facing inwards to the jacket and the top stitch
[02:10:26] inwards to the jacket and the top stitch is facing downwards to the sleeve. And
[02:10:29] is facing downwards to the sleeve. And we're just going to stitch all the way
[02:10:30] we're just going to stitch all the way around. But be really careful. Take this
[02:10:32] around. But be really careful. Take this slow. This is the tedious part where you
[02:10:34] slow. This is the tedious part where you are going to have to do it another three
[02:10:35] are going to have to do it another three other times. Two for the lining and one
[02:10:38] other times. Two for the lining and one for the other sleeve. But you've got
[02:10:40] for the other sleeve. But you've got this. Just take it slow and we will get
[02:10:42] this. Just take it slow and we will get there.
[02:10:54] And just like that, that is one complete
[02:10:57] And just like that, that is one complete sleeve out of four. You can see that the
[02:11:00] sleeve out of four. You can see that the volume falls on the back and it's
[02:11:03] volume falls on the back and it's looking really nice. Now, we're going to
[02:11:04] looking really nice. Now, we're going to combat the other three sleeves. I'm
[02:11:06] combat the other three sleeves. I'm going to do this maybe a little bit on
[02:11:08] going to do this maybe a little bit on camera, but mostly off camera because
[02:11:10] camera, but mostly off camera because it's the exact same process. Just if you
[02:11:13] it's the exact same process. Just if you need pins to go around and uh you know,
[02:11:16] need pins to go around and uh you know, hold the in place whilst you sew, go for
[02:11:18] hold the in place whilst you sew, go for it. But if you feel like you can do it
[02:11:20] it. But if you feel like you can do it without pins, it's probably easier to
[02:11:22] without pins, it's probably easier to just move the fabric as you go. And then
[02:11:24] just move the fabric as you go. And then the top stitch, just make sure all the
[02:11:27] the top stitch, just make sure all the fabric is out the way.
[02:11:34] Sh
[02:11:41] change.
[02:11:54] I basically just smashed through the
[02:11:57] I basically just smashed through the outer shell and the lining. So, they're
[02:11:59] outer shell and the lining. So, they're both sort of constructed together. And
[02:12:00] both sort of constructed together. And now I just put the other three sleeves
[02:12:02] now I just put the other three sleeves in. Now we're on the part of the process
[02:12:04] in. Now we're on the part of the process where we have the elastic waistband
[02:12:06] where we have the elastic waistband pattern piece. And you can cut it
[02:12:08] pattern piece. And you can cut it specific to your size obviously. And
[02:12:10] specific to your size obviously. And then you can cut your ribbing down to
[02:12:12] then you can cut your ribbing down to the exact size of what it says on the
[02:12:14] the exact size of what it says on the pattern piece. And then you should have
[02:12:16] pattern piece. And then you should have two panels which look like this. And
[02:12:20] two panels which look like this. And they are called the center front bottom
[02:12:22] they are called the center front bottom flap. Basically these panels connect to
[02:12:25] flap. Basically these panels connect to the ribbing. Front facing of the
[02:12:27] the ribbing. Front facing of the ribbing. Ribbing good side facing up.
[02:12:29] ribbing. Ribbing good side facing up. And then obviously the good side of your
[02:12:32] And then obviously the good side of your center facing down. So they're front
[02:12:34] center facing down. So they're front facings together. We're going to stitch
[02:12:36] facings together. We're going to stitch down here a 1 over4. And this will
[02:12:38] down here a 1 over4. And this will basically mean that this will sit around
[02:12:40] basically mean that this will sit around here. It'll basically be at the bottom
[02:12:42] here. It'll basically be at the bottom of your jacket. Again, it will just be
[02:12:44] of your jacket. Again, it will just be another facing so that zip doesn't get
[02:12:46] another facing so that zip doesn't get caught. So how are we going to do this?
[02:12:49] caught. So how are we going to do this? Front facing together. One over fourth.
[02:12:50] Front facing together. One over fourth. Turn it the other way. Top stitch it.
[02:12:52] Turn it the other way. Top stitch it. And we're going to do the exact same for
[02:12:53] And we're going to do the exact same for the other side. So front facing
[02:12:55] the other side. So front facing together. One over fourth. Turn it over.
[02:12:57] together. One over fourth. Turn it over. Top stitch it. And when these are
[02:12:59] Top stitch it. And when these are together and constructed, then we can
[02:13:01] together and constructed, then we can actually start putting the ribbing to
[02:13:02] actually start putting the ribbing to the jacket. It's quite a fun little
[02:13:04] the jacket. It's quite a fun little process.
[02:13:14] >> So the top stitch on this bottom center
[02:13:16] >> So the top stitch on this bottom center front is going to run this way. So make
[02:13:19] front is going to run this way. So make sure you're top stitching the polyester,
[02:13:22] sure you're top stitching the polyester, not the ribbing.
[02:13:24] not the ribbing. So now you have stitched the ribbing to
[02:13:27] So now you have stitched the ribbing to the bottom center front. You can see
[02:13:29] the bottom center front. You can see that it's going to work perfectly. And
[02:13:31] that it's going to work perfectly. And the way we're going to construct this
[02:13:32] the way we're going to construct this and sort of attach it to the garment is
[02:13:34] and sort of attach it to the garment is we're actually going to go and grab our
[02:13:36] we're actually going to go and grab our outer shell and we're going to lay it
[02:13:38] outer shell and we're going to lay it with the good sides facing up. Now what
[02:13:40] with the good sides facing up. Now what we're going to do is we are going to pin
[02:13:44] we're going to do is we are going to pin the bottom center front front facing. So
[02:13:47] the bottom center front front facing. So good side facing down on the obviously
[02:13:49] good side facing down on the obviously the good side facing up on the actual
[02:13:51] the good side facing up on the actual outer shell jacket. And then we're going
[02:13:53] outer shell jacket. And then we're going to run a few pins, maybe like four pins
[02:13:55] to run a few pins, maybe like four pins along. And then we're going to do the
[02:13:57] along. And then we're going to do the exact same thing for the other side. And
[02:13:59] exact same thing for the other side. And you might need to stretch it for the
[02:14:00] you might need to stretch it for the second one. When we run this through the
[02:14:02] second one. When we run this through the sewing machine, we're going to be
[02:14:03] sewing machine, we're going to be pulling the ribbing. So the ribbing
[02:14:05] pulling the ribbing. So the ribbing itself sort of stretches. That's what we
[02:14:08] itself sort of stretches. That's what we want here. We want the ribbing to
[02:14:09] want here. We want the ribbing to stretch. And as you can see, when I lay
[02:14:11] stretch. And as you can see, when I lay the jacket out and pull it, it does
[02:14:13] the jacket out and pull it, it does reach the other side, which creates that
[02:14:15] reach the other side, which creates that natural sort of cinching in the jacket.
[02:14:18] natural sort of cinching in the jacket. So yeah, four pins. Making sure we're
[02:14:20] So yeah, four pins. Making sure we're pinning in this bottom center front. So
[02:14:22] pinning in this bottom center front. So it stays in place. One, two, and then
[02:14:25] it stays in place. One, two, and then three and four can sort of sit on the
[02:14:28] three and four can sort of sit on the ribbing itself.
[02:14:30] ribbing itself. And the reason these other two pins sit
[02:14:32] And the reason these other two pins sit on the ribbing is just because we are
[02:14:34] on the ribbing is just because we are going to stretch this ribbing. So nearer
[02:14:37] going to stretch this ribbing. So nearer the front of the jacket, it's not going
[02:14:39] the front of the jacket, it's not going to be as stretched as you can see up
[02:14:41] to be as stretched as you can see up there on the other jacket. I'm just
[02:14:43] there on the other jacket. I'm just going to pull this over and do the exact
[02:14:44] going to pull this over and do the exact same thing for the other side.
[02:14:52] Now we've added about four pins on each
[02:14:54] Now we've added about four pins on each side. We can bring it to the sewing
[02:14:56] side. We can bring it to the sewing machine. And as we start stitching along
[02:14:58] machine. And as we start stitching along this, we know that this sort of area is
[02:15:01] this, we know that this sort of area is going to stay sort of like perfect
[02:15:03] going to stay sort of like perfect without too much stretch. And then as we
[02:15:05] without too much stretch. And then as we go along, we can actually just pull it
[02:15:07] go along, we can actually just pull it so it stretches and it will should match
[02:15:09] so it stretches and it will should match perfectly as you can see there. But
[02:15:13] perfectly as you can see there. But obviously when it's not elasticated, it
[02:15:15] obviously when it's not elasticated, it looks like there's way more sort of
[02:15:17] looks like there's way more sort of fabric on the outer shell. But there's
[02:15:20] fabric on the outer shell. But there's not.
[02:15:26] As you can see, if I pull this ribbing
[02:15:29] As you can see, if I pull this ribbing all along, it will naturally match up
[02:15:31] all along, it will naturally match up perfectly. So about halfway along where
[02:15:33] perfectly. So about halfway along where it matches, we can just pinch it
[02:15:35] it matches, we can just pinch it together and use that as a reference
[02:15:39] together and use that as a reference for how much we need to pull the
[02:15:41] for how much we need to pull the ribbing.
[02:15:44] If you need to do it again, just to make
[02:15:46] If you need to do it again, just to make sure it matches.
[02:16:12] And now you've attached your ribbing to
[02:16:15] And now you've attached your ribbing to the bottom of your outer shell. We're
[02:16:17] the bottom of your outer shell. We're going to basically do the exact same
[02:16:19] going to basically do the exact same procedure that we just did and we're
[02:16:21] procedure that we just did and we're going to connect it to the front facing
[02:16:25] going to connect it to the front facing of our lining. What we're doing now is
[02:16:28] of our lining. What we're doing now is we're basically constructing it so it
[02:16:31] we're basically constructing it so it goes together reversible.
[02:16:36] But make sure that your good side of
[02:16:39] But make sure that your good side of your outer shell is facing the good side
[02:16:41] your outer shell is facing the good side of the lining. And we're basically just
[02:16:43] of the lining. And we're basically just going to do the exact same thing where
[02:16:45] going to do the exact same thing where we're throwing like four pins
[02:16:49] we're throwing like four pins and then working our way along.
[02:16:55] So now we've got done the exact same
[02:16:57] So now we've got done the exact same thing. We're literally going to work our
[02:16:58] thing. We're literally going to work our way along from left to right in my case.
[02:17:01] way along from left to right in my case. And I'm just going to make sure that it
[02:17:02] And I'm just going to make sure that it does the exact same thing. This ribbing
[02:17:05] does the exact same thing. This ribbing automatically has some kind of like
[02:17:08] automatically has some kind of like stitch in the middle, so it naturally
[02:17:10] stitch in the middle, so it naturally makes the half fold. And obviously, the
[02:17:12] makes the half fold. And obviously, the reason we're doing it front facings
[02:17:14] reason we're doing it front facings together, as I said, is so the whole
[02:17:17] together, as I said, is so the whole jacket can be seamless, but most
[02:17:18] jacket can be seamless, but most importantly, it will be reversible. So,
[02:17:20] importantly, it will be reversible. So, let's sew this now.
[02:17:40] We are absolutely wrecked. I just turned
[02:17:42] We are absolutely wrecked. I just turned this inside out to show you the
[02:17:45] this inside out to show you the attachment of the uh sleeve cuffs and I
[02:17:48] attachment of the uh sleeve cuffs and I just can't do anymore. Uh every time I'm
[02:17:51] just can't do anymore. Uh every time I'm sewing a new piece, I'm losing my mind.
[02:17:53] sewing a new piece, I'm losing my mind. I need to chill out. It's Friday. We've
[02:17:55] I need to chill out. It's Friday. We've been going for 2 days and I've been
[02:17:57] been going for 2 days and I've been working super hard on other at the
[02:17:59] working super hard on other at the same time. So, I'm just going to give it
[02:18:01] same time. So, I'm just going to give it a rest for tonight. Good job, Eloise.
[02:18:04] a rest for tonight. Good job, Eloise. And we will come back tomorrow morning
[02:18:06] And we will come back tomorrow morning and either way, I'm going to show you
[02:18:08] and either way, I'm going to show you how to do the cuffs and then we're going
[02:18:10] how to do the cuffs and then we're going to move on to the hood. And then
[02:18:11] to move on to the hood. And then finally, we'll move on to how to attach
[02:18:13] finally, we'll move on to how to attach the zip and then it'll be a finished
[02:18:14] the zip and then it'll be a finished jacket. I'm going to put in the pattern
[02:18:16] jacket. I'm going to put in the pattern that it's reversible. So, if you do find
[02:18:18] that it's reversible. So, if you do find a reversible zip, then you can actually
[02:18:21] a reversible zip, then you can actually obviously wear this jacket reversible.
[02:18:24] obviously wear this jacket reversible. It will have seamless seams all around,
[02:18:26] It will have seamless seams all around, so it'll be completely reversible.
[02:18:28] so it'll be completely reversible. However, I don't have a reversible zip.
[02:18:30] However, I don't have a reversible zip. But either way, I'll show you what it
[02:18:32] But either way, I'll show you what it looks like the other side. You'll just
[02:18:33] looks like the other side. You'll just see the back end of the zip puller. And
[02:18:35] see the back end of the zip puller. And yeah, I'm wrecked. I'm off. I'll see you
[02:18:37] yeah, I'm wrecked. I'm off. I'll see you tomorrow. The final stretch to getting
[02:18:40] tomorrow. The final stretch to getting this jacket done. I hope you're at the
[02:18:42] this jacket done. I hope you're at the same stage as I am. Let's absolutely
[02:18:45] same stage as I am. Let's absolutely smash this out tomorrow. See you in a
[02:18:46] smash this out tomorrow. See you in a bit.
[02:18:52] Day three of construction. We are on the
[02:18:55] Day three of construction. We are on the Sunday morning and the first post for
[02:18:58] Sunday morning and the first post for the jacket comes out tonight and all of
[02:19:00] the jacket comes out tonight and all of the content is going to come out through
[02:19:01] the content is going to come out through this coming week. Um, so it's go go go
[02:19:04] this coming week. Um, so it's go go go time at the moment. But we felt
[02:19:06] time at the moment. But we felt shattered the other night, so we thought
[02:19:07] shattered the other night, so we thought we'd come back today and just like get
[02:19:09] we'd come back today and just like get everything done, the last little bits of
[02:19:11] everything done, the last little bits of the ribbing and then installing the hood
[02:19:14] the ribbing and then installing the hood and then finally inputting the zipper
[02:19:16] and then finally inputting the zipper and the cover and then finishing up all
[02:19:18] and the cover and then finishing up all of the loose ends and making sure the
[02:19:20] of the loose ends and making sure the jacket's completed. So, I wanted to hit
[02:19:22] jacket's completed. So, I wanted to hit this with a fresh brain so I can explain
[02:19:23] this with a fresh brain so I can explain this properly because when you get so
[02:19:25] this properly because when you get so tired, it sort of you'll feel the
[02:19:27] tired, it sort of you'll feel the tiredness throughout the video, too, and
[02:19:29] tiredness throughout the video, too, and I don't want that. So, fresh brain.
[02:19:31] I don't want that. So, fresh brain. Eloise is filming again. We're going to
[02:19:32] Eloise is filming again. We're going to tackle the cuffs first and then we'll
[02:19:35] tackle the cuffs first and then we'll move swiftly onto the hood, then put the
[02:19:37] move swiftly onto the hood, then put the zipper in. So, let's let's do it. So,
[02:19:39] zipper in. So, let's let's do it. So, this right here is your cuff. I just cut
[02:19:41] this right here is your cuff. I just cut the width of 8 in exactly. This is
[02:19:44] the width of 8 in exactly. This is because it's going to fold over and then
[02:19:46] because it's going to fold over and then that right there, your elastic sort of
[02:19:48] that right there, your elastic sort of rifend.
[02:19:50] rifend. and then uh be the width of your actual
[02:19:52] and then uh be the width of your actual opening for the hem of your sleeve. So
[02:19:55] opening for the hem of your sleeve. So basically there is a pattern piece
[02:19:57] basically there is a pattern piece within the pattern that shows you how
[02:19:59] within the pattern that shows you how much rib knit to cut, but you can either
[02:20:01] much rib knit to cut, but you can either do this like smaller or bigger depending
[02:20:02] do this like smaller or bigger depending on how much you want your cuffs to
[02:20:04] on how much you want your cuffs to elasticate in or not. So I'm doing 8 in
[02:20:09] elasticate in or not. So I'm doing 8 in across. You can do whatever you want to
[02:20:11] across. You can do whatever you want to do. This will basically front facing
[02:20:13] do. This will basically front facing fold over together. And then the way
[02:20:15] fold over together. And then the way we're going to do this is we're going to
[02:20:16] we're going to do this is we're going to stitch along this line to close it off.
[02:20:19] stitch along this line to close it off. And then we're basically going to turn
[02:20:21] And then we're basically going to turn it back right way forward. And then
[02:20:23] it back right way forward. And then we're just going to insert it in to the
[02:20:25] we're just going to insert it in to the sleeve and then pull it, stitch it all
[02:20:28] sleeve and then pull it, stitch it all around. And then we can actually pull it
[02:20:31] around. And then we can actually pull it through. And then once you pull it
[02:20:33] through. And then once you pull it through, obviously it'll be stitched. So
[02:20:34] through, obviously it'll be stitched. So you're pulling through from the inside
[02:20:36] you're pulling through from the inside of the cuff. You can then move this over
[02:20:38] of the cuff. You can then move this over here and attach the other end of the
[02:20:40] here and attach the other end of the ribet to the bottom of the sleeve
[02:20:42] ribet to the bottom of the sleeve opening. And as I mentioned the other
[02:20:44] opening. And as I mentioned the other day, this whole section over here, it
[02:20:47] day, this whole section over here, it needs to not have any twists and turns
[02:20:48] needs to not have any twists and turns in it. Because if it does bottom, this
[02:20:51] in it. Because if it does bottom, this side seam of the rib knit doesn't
[02:20:52] side seam of the rib knit doesn't connect to the bottom seam of your
[02:20:55] connect to the bottom seam of your sleeve and correspond with the other
[02:20:57] sleeve and correspond with the other bottom sleeve, then you will have
[02:20:58] bottom sleeve, then you will have problems with it sort of being twisted
[02:21:00] problems with it sort of being twisted and turned. As you can see on my hood is
[02:21:02] and turned. As you can see on my hood is a good example. The rib knit sort of
[02:21:05] a good example. The rib knit sort of runs all the way through that sort of
[02:21:06] runs all the way through that sort of seam runs all the way through the
[02:21:08] seam runs all the way through the hoodie. So yeah, we're going to target
[02:21:10] hoodie. So yeah, we're going to target that and sort of get this smashed out.
[02:21:11] that and sort of get this smashed out. As I go, I'm going to show you exactly
[02:21:13] As I go, I'm going to show you exactly what I'm doing, but it's best for me to
[02:21:14] what I'm doing, but it's best for me to just un, you know, help you understand
[02:21:16] just un, you know, help you understand what you're doing before you're doing
[02:21:17] what you're doing before you're doing it. So, yeah, let's smash it out. So,
[02:21:20] it. So, yeah, let's smash it out. So, again, good sides facing each other. So,
[02:21:23] again, good sides facing each other. So, along the width, not folding it over the
[02:21:27] along the width, not folding it over the sort of vertical side, along the sort of
[02:21:28] sort of vertical side, along the sort of horizontal side where the, you know, the
[02:21:31] horizontal side where the, you know, the fold in the middle of the ribbing runs
[02:21:33] fold in the middle of the ribbing runs along. We're actually just going to
[02:21:35] along. We're actually just going to place the two loose edges together. And
[02:21:38] place the two loose edges together. And then we're going to stitch all the way
[02:21:39] then we're going to stitch all the way down this with a 1 over4 seam allowance.
[02:21:41] down this with a 1 over4 seam allowance. It can be quite tricky to stitch on rib
[02:21:44] It can be quite tricky to stitch on rib knitting. You got to kind of take it
[02:21:46] knitting. You got to kind of take it slowly
[02:21:49] slowly and make sure you're not stretching it
[02:21:50] and make sure you're not stretching it out
[02:21:52] out and kind of push it through.
[02:21:57] You've stitched the whole side of the
[02:22:00] You've stitched the whole side of the panel. If you do have an over locker,
[02:22:01] panel. If you do have an over locker, maybe overlocking this would be a little
[02:22:03] maybe overlocking this would be a little bit better. But just to visualize and
[02:22:05] bit better. But just to visualize and show you the cuff, you can actually turn
[02:22:08] show you the cuff, you can actually turn half of it inside out. And so if you can
[02:22:11] half of it inside out. And so if you can see the loose edges match up at the
[02:22:13] see the loose edges match up at the bottom and this is how much your the
[02:22:16] bottom and this is how much your the sort of width of your cuff and you can
[02:22:17] sort of width of your cuff and you can sort of put it on and make sure it's
[02:22:19] sort of put it on and make sure it's correct, which is nice. And I really
[02:22:22] correct, which is nice. And I really like that width. I think that works
[02:22:23] like that width. I think that works perfectly. So that is our cuff fully
[02:22:25] perfectly. So that is our cuff fully completed there. Ready to attach to both
[02:22:28] completed there. Ready to attach to both the lining and the outer shell. I'm just
[02:22:30] the lining and the outer shell. I'm just going to quickly do the exact same thing
[02:22:32] going to quickly do the exact same thing for the other side. just stitching the
[02:22:34] for the other side. just stitching the two sides horizontal together and then
[02:22:36] two sides horizontal together and then we'll move on to attaching it.
[02:22:40] we'll move on to attaching it. So you can see on the ribet itself there
[02:22:42] So you can see on the ribet itself there is a side seam that sort of seam that
[02:22:44] is a side seam that sort of seam that you've just created and closed up. When
[02:22:47] you've just created and closed up. When you turn it the right way up you'll see
[02:22:48] you turn it the right way up you'll see like it it will be super super nice.
[02:22:50] like it it will be super super nice. Basically what we're going to do with
[02:22:52] Basically what we're going to do with the 8 in that we've cut of the ribet,
[02:22:55] the 8 in that we've cut of the ribet, you can see that you can visualize if
[02:22:56] you can see that you can visualize if you just, you know, pull the bottom bit
[02:22:58] you just, you know, pull the bottom bit apart, you can see it will get to the
[02:23:00] apart, you can see it will get to the circumference of the sleeve opening,
[02:23:02] circumference of the sleeve opening, which is what we want underneath the
[02:23:04] which is what we want underneath the armpit sort of like seam. So the seam
[02:23:07] armpit sort of like seam. So the seam that runs all the way down the sleeve,
[02:23:09] that runs all the way down the sleeve, you can see that when we match up that
[02:23:12] you can see that when we match up that seam, it's going to run all the way
[02:23:13] seam, it's going to run all the way through the garment itself. It goes all
[02:23:16] through the garment itself. It goes all the way around the sleeve. It goes down
[02:23:18] the way around the sleeve. It goes down the side seam. starts at the other side
[02:23:20] the side seam. starts at the other side seam, goes up, and then back down. And
[02:23:22] seam, goes up, and then back down. And the ribbing is going to be no different.
[02:23:24] the ribbing is going to be no different. We're going to follow that through. So
[02:23:25] We're going to follow that through. So that seam goes all the way around the
[02:23:27] that seam goes all the way around the whole garment. And we're going to make
[02:23:28] whole garment. And we're going to make sure that the reason these side seams
[02:23:30] sure that the reason these side seams match up, so the underneath seam of the
[02:23:33] match up, so the underneath seam of the sleeve matches up with the seam that
[02:23:34] sleeve matches up with the seam that you're doing on the ribbing, the reason
[02:23:36] you're doing on the ribbing, the reason they do match up is because you want to
[02:23:38] they do match up is because you want to make sure that there is no twists or
[02:23:40] make sure that there is no twists or turns in this garment. because otherwise
[02:23:42] turns in this garment. because otherwise when you when you go to having your
[02:23:44] when you when you go to having your final constructed turning inside out
[02:23:46] final constructed turning inside out garment, you'll have a twisted cuff or
[02:23:48] garment, you'll have a twisted cuff or it might be inside out. It might just
[02:23:50] it might be inside out. It might just fit really weirdly. So, we're basically
[02:23:51] fit really weirdly. So, we're basically just trying to make sure that everything
[02:23:54] just trying to make sure that everything is like sewn perfectly. So, when we turn
[02:23:55] is like sewn perfectly. So, when we turn it inside out, it all works. So, you're
[02:23:58] it inside out, it all works. So, you're just following that seam all the way
[02:24:00] just following that seam all the way through. What we're going to do, if you
[02:24:01] through. What we're going to do, if you haven't already, turn it the right way
[02:24:03] haven't already, turn it the right way up and you can actually just slot it in.
[02:24:05] up and you can actually just slot it in. And we're going to basically just put
[02:24:06] And we're going to basically just put the front facings together of the inside
[02:24:08] the front facings together of the inside seam, that sort of bottom seam. Make
[02:24:11] seam, that sort of bottom seam. Make sure you're not doing it on this long
[02:24:13] sure you're not doing it on this long seam, the one that gives us our volume.
[02:24:15] seam, the one that gives us our volume. So, make sure that we're matching up the
[02:24:16] So, make sure that we're matching up the inside of that ribbing seam. You can
[02:24:18] inside of that ribbing seam. You can pull your, you know, seam apart. And
[02:24:20] pull your, you know, seam apart. And then we're just going to stretch this
[02:24:21] then we're just going to stretch this and sew all the way around. Uh, you're
[02:24:24] and sew all the way around. Uh, you're going to start your stitch on that seam
[02:24:25] going to start your stitch on that seam and then make your way all the way
[02:24:27] and then make your way all the way around. It's really, really easy. Now,
[02:24:28] around. It's really, really easy. Now, you're in the territory of having loads
[02:24:30] you're in the territory of having loads of fabric. We've got the jackets that
[02:24:32] of fabric. We've got the jackets that are two. It's basically two jackets that
[02:24:34] are two. It's basically two jackets that are facing each other. Right now, there
[02:24:36] are facing each other. Right now, there is a lot of fabric. So, we want to make
[02:24:38] is a lot of fabric. So, we want to make sure that we're taking it really careful
[02:24:40] sure that we're taking it really careful and we're not sewing over random bits
[02:24:41] and we're not sewing over random bits whilst we're putting the material under
[02:24:43] whilst we're putting the material under the sewing foot. So, let's go over to
[02:24:45] the sewing foot. So, let's go over to the machine. So, I've just started the
[02:24:47] the machine. So, I've just started the stitch on the very like sort of So, I've
[02:24:50] stitch on the very like sort of So, I've just started the stitch matching the
[02:24:52] just started the stitch matching the seam and we're going to slowly work our
[02:24:54] seam and we're going to slowly work our way around. We don't actually need pins
[02:24:56] way around. We don't actually need pins for this. As long as that seam matches
[02:24:57] for this. As long as that seam matches up, then you can slowly work your way
[02:24:59] up, then you can slowly work your way around with stitching, making sure
[02:25:01] around with stitching, making sure you're pulling the elastic on the bottom
[02:25:02] you're pulling the elastic on the bottom of the cuff as we go around,
[02:25:06] of the cuff as we go around, making sure you're also doing that one
[02:25:08] making sure you're also doing that one over four seam allowance all the way
[02:25:09] over four seam allowance all the way around.
[02:25:17] If you get to this stage right here
[02:25:18] If you get to this stage right here where your sort of elastic isn't
[02:25:20] where your sort of elastic isn't elasticating properly, just like mine,
[02:25:23] elasticating properly, just like mine, um, then you can literally just add a
[02:25:26] um, then you can literally just add a little pinch in the fabric and then just
[02:25:27] little pinch in the fabric and then just fold it over and it will work completely
[02:25:29] fold it over and it will work completely fine. Maybe I will recommend and add
[02:25:32] fine. Maybe I will recommend and add some text over the video where I said I
[02:25:34] some text over the video where I said I cut 8 in. It's probably best to cut nine
[02:25:36] cut 8 in. It's probably best to cut nine or just follow the bloody pattern. I
[02:25:38] or just follow the bloody pattern. I didn't because I gave it to Max, but do
[02:25:40] didn't because I gave it to Max, but do the pattern width of the ribbing. Don't
[02:25:43] the pattern width of the ribbing. Don't follow my 8 in. We're going to have to
[02:25:45] follow my 8 in. We're going to have to sort of add a dart to the main inner
[02:25:48] sort of add a dart to the main inner lining of the sleeve now. Uh just
[02:25:50] lining of the sleeve now. Uh just because of my little mistake. But yeah,
[02:25:53] because of my little mistake. But yeah, carry on sewing around.
[02:25:57] And now your arm is turned quite a lot.
[02:25:59] And now your arm is turned quite a lot. So you you've you know, you've twisted
[02:26:01] So you you've you know, you've twisted your arm quite a bit. So you can untwist
[02:26:03] your arm quite a bit. So you can untwist it from what you've just stitched. And
[02:26:04] it from what you've just stitched. And you can pull out your sleeve. And as you
[02:26:07] you can pull out your sleeve. And as you can see now, the sleeve is actually
[02:26:09] can see now, the sleeve is actually attached to your lining. And uh you
[02:26:12] attached to your lining. And uh you know, we're now going to attach it to
[02:26:14] know, we're now going to attach it to the other panel. So now we can follow it
[02:26:16] the other panel. So now we can follow it all the way down that seam, that under
[02:26:18] all the way down that seam, that under the arm seam, side seam over to the side
[02:26:21] the arm seam, side seam over to the side seam, and then all the way up the
[02:26:23] seam, and then all the way up the underarm of our outer shell. And we're
[02:26:26] underarm of our outer shell. And we're now going to attach that seam, making
[02:26:28] now going to attach that seam, making sure there's no twists and turns in
[02:26:30] sure there's no twists and turns in these arms, cuz honestly, if you have a
[02:26:32] these arms, cuz honestly, if you have a twist and you try to attach it this way,
[02:26:34] twist and you try to attach it this way, it's just going to make your final
[02:26:35] it's just going to make your final garment not work the way it should. So,
[02:26:37] garment not work the way it should. So, the way we're going to do this is
[02:26:38] the way we're going to do this is basically attach this seam, the side
[02:26:41] basically attach this seam, the side stitching of the ribbing right there.
[02:26:43] stitching of the ribbing right there. And we're going to attach it to the
[02:26:45] And we're going to attach it to the bottom seam, the one that runs all the
[02:26:47] bottom seam, the one that runs all the way through on the outer shell. I'm
[02:26:49] way through on the outer shell. I'm going to put the jacket in the same
[02:26:50] going to put the jacket in the same position as it was just a minute ago,
[02:26:52] position as it was just a minute ago, and visually show you how we're going to
[02:26:53] and visually show you how we're going to do this. So, as you can see right now
[02:26:55] do this. So, as you can see right now down here, if you come over the top, you
[02:26:57] down here, if you come over the top, you can see that we have two things, the
[02:26:59] can see that we have two things, the ribbing and the outer shell that are
[02:27:01] ribbing and the outer shell that are both on. They're both inside out, but we
[02:27:04] both on. They're both inside out, but we want the front facings to match. So,
[02:27:06] want the front facings to match. So, obviously you might be a bit confused
[02:27:07] obviously you might be a bit confused about how this works, but the way you're
[02:27:09] about how this works, but the way you're doing it, making sure that obviously
[02:27:10] doing it, making sure that obviously there's no twists and turns in the whole
[02:27:12] there's no twists and turns in the whole garment. You're just flipping out the
[02:27:14] garment. You're just flipping out the ribbing just like that. And then we can
[02:27:16] ribbing just like that. And then we can sort of focus on attaching the front
[02:27:19] sort of focus on attaching the front facing of this ribbing to the
[02:27:22] facing of this ribbing to the underneath, sort of slotting it in to
[02:27:24] underneath, sort of slotting it in to the underneath of that seam on the
[02:27:27] the underneath of that seam on the sleeve. Now, we're going to do the same
[02:27:29] sleeve. Now, we're going to do the same procedure. This bit can be a little bit
[02:27:31] procedure. This bit can be a little bit tricky when you're stitching the outer
[02:27:32] tricky when you're stitching the outer shell into the sleeve. Mainly just
[02:27:35] shell into the sleeve. Mainly just because, you know, you've already
[02:27:36] because, you know, you've already attached it to the other side. So now
[02:27:38] attached it to the other side. So now we're working with sort of moving all
[02:27:39] we're working with sort of moving all the fabric out the way. But if you maybe
[02:27:41] the fabric out the way. But if you maybe have attempted the terrace jacket or
[02:27:44] have attempted the terrace jacket or you've attempted another one of my
[02:27:45] you've attempted another one of my jackets on the YouTube, you might you
[02:27:47] jackets on the YouTube, you might you will already know this sort of technique
[02:27:49] will already know this sort of technique because we do it quite a lot with sort
[02:27:51] because we do it quite a lot with sort of closing seams on the sleeve. But
[02:27:53] of closing seams on the sleeve. But we're essentially just stitching,
[02:27:54] we're essentially just stitching, matching the front facings of the
[02:27:56] matching the front facings of the underneath seam on the sleeve with the
[02:27:58] underneath seam on the sleeve with the seam front facing on the ribbing. Good
[02:28:01] seam front facing on the ribbing. Good sides together. And then we're going to
[02:28:02] sides together. And then we're going to stitch all the way around. So, as I
[02:28:04] stitch all the way around. So, as I mentioned, this bit is a little bit more
[02:28:06] mentioned, this bit is a little bit more tricky than doing it on the initial
[02:28:08] tricky than doing it on the initial lining and implementing that first bit
[02:28:10] lining and implementing that first bit of the ribbing. But you're just going to
[02:28:12] of the ribbing. But you're just going to make your way around
[02:28:15] make your way around and stitch it in the same way you did
[02:28:16] and stitch it in the same way you did before. If we come into the same issue,
[02:28:19] before. If we come into the same issue, we can just dart the jacket.
[02:28:24] we can just dart the jacket. The dart should be quite hidden on our
[02:28:26] The dart should be quite hidden on our final garment anyway, just because it's
[02:28:28] final garment anyway, just because it's going to cinch in quite a bit because of
[02:28:30] going to cinch in quite a bit because of the elastic on the rib.
[02:28:36] Just make a small tiny little fold
[02:28:38] Just make a small tiny little fold there. As you can see, I'm pinching in
[02:28:41] there. As you can see, I'm pinching in the fabric and then I'm just pushing it
[02:28:42] the fabric and then I'm just pushing it to one side.
[02:28:47] And there we go. That is the sleeve
[02:28:50] And there we go. That is the sleeve cuffs installed. So now you can visually
[02:28:53] cuffs installed. So now you can visually see that all the way around this
[02:28:55] see that all the way around this garment, the seam runs all the way down
[02:28:57] garment, the seam runs all the way down the side seam, up the side seam of the
[02:28:59] the side seam, up the side seam of the outer shell, down through the under seam
[02:29:01] outer shell, down through the under seam of the arm, and then you can see they
[02:29:03] of the arm, and then you can see they match perfectly right here, which is
[02:29:06] match perfectly right here, which is exactly what we want. And I'm going to
[02:29:08] exactly what we want. And I'm going to do the other one off camera. I hope that
[02:29:10] do the other one off camera. I hope that you understand that process. It is
[02:29:12] you understand that process. It is actually really simple. We did it in
[02:29:14] actually really simple. We did it in Italy on the domestic machine. It is
[02:29:16] Italy on the domestic machine. It is something you can do on both domestic
[02:29:17] something you can do on both domestic and industrial. Obviously, you're
[02:29:19] and industrial. Obviously, you're working with a lot of fabric and make
[02:29:20] working with a lot of fabric and make sure you cut that bigger ribbing than I
[02:29:23] sure you cut that bigger ribbing than I cut because I had to do the dart in the
[02:29:25] cut because I had to do the dart in the actual sleeve itself. But it doesn't
[02:29:26] actual sleeve itself. But it doesn't really make too much of a difference.
[02:29:28] really make too much of a difference. The arm's going to be elasticated
[02:29:29] The arm's going to be elasticated anyway. So, I'm going to do the other
[02:29:30] anyway. So, I'm going to do the other one off camera. Just to mention again,
[02:29:32] one off camera. Just to mention again, don't use the 8 in wide ribbing. Use the
[02:29:36] don't use the 8 in wide ribbing. Use the pattern piece. Don't use the 8 in wide
[02:29:38] pattern piece. Don't use the 8 in wide ribbing. So, you don't have to dart the
[02:29:42] ribbing. So, you don't have to dart the end of the sleeves. If you do have to
[02:29:43] end of the sleeves. If you do have to dot the end of the sleeves, it doesn't
[02:29:45] dot the end of the sleeves, it doesn't really make too much of a difference
[02:29:46] really make too much of a difference because it's going to be elasticated
[02:29:48] because it's going to be elasticated anyway and you will not see it. But just
[02:29:50] anyway and you will not see it. But just for the sake of making the cleanest
[02:29:52] for the sake of making the cleanest jacket you've ever seen in your life,
[02:29:53] jacket you've ever seen in your life, just refer to the pattern piece of how
[02:29:55] just refer to the pattern piece of how wide that ribbing cuff is cuz I gave my
[02:29:59] wide that ribbing cuff is cuz I gave my pattern to Max and now I don't have the
[02:30:01] pattern to Max and now I don't have the ribbing for the cuff. So yeah. Anyway,
[02:30:03] ribbing for the cuff. So yeah. Anyway, let's move on to the other one. I'll do
[02:30:04] let's move on to the other one. I'll do the other one off camera and then we
[02:30:06] the other one off camera and then we will move on to attaching the hood.
[02:30:08] will move on to attaching the hood. Let's do Now we have connected the cuffs
[02:30:10] Let's do Now we have connected the cuffs to the jacket. So to the lining and the
[02:30:13] to the jacket. So to the lining and the outer shell, we've done the ribbing on
[02:30:15] outer shell, we've done the ribbing on the main waist earlier. And yeah, we're
[02:30:18] the main waist earlier. And yeah, we're going to move on to the hood and the
[02:30:20] going to move on to the hood and the installation of the hood. Now, um
[02:30:22] installation of the hood. Now, um there's a specific way to do this. It's
[02:30:24] there's a specific way to do this. It's pretty much very similar to the way
[02:30:26] pretty much very similar to the way you've just input your cuffs. So you're
[02:30:28] you've just input your cuffs. So you're connecting it the sort of outer shell
[02:30:31] connecting it the sort of outer shell part to the neckline on the outer shell.
[02:30:34] part to the neckline on the outer shell. And then you're obviously connecting the
[02:30:35] And then you're obviously connecting the lining part to the sort of lining facing
[02:30:39] lining part to the sort of lining facing over here. So again, if I can just
[02:30:42] over here. So again, if I can just explain it and then I'll show you and
[02:30:43] explain it and then I'll show you and explain it at the same time. Earlier,
[02:30:45] explain it at the same time. Earlier, you didn't stitch you didn't stitch the
[02:30:48] you didn't stitch you didn't stitch the sort of lining to the outer shell of the
[02:30:50] sort of lining to the outer shell of the hood and we left all of that center sort
[02:30:53] hood and we left all of that center sort of facing where the main zipper would go
[02:30:55] of facing where the main zipper would go open. So what we're going to do is along
[02:30:58] open. So what we're going to do is along this like neckline that runs all the way
[02:31:00] this like neckline that runs all the way along that little part at the bottom,
[02:31:02] along that little part at the bottom, just the outer shell, we're going to
[02:31:04] just the outer shell, we're going to connect front facing to the neckline and
[02:31:07] connect front facing to the neckline and it's going to run all the way along.
[02:31:09] it's going to run all the way along. We're going to stitch that down. And
[02:31:10] We're going to stitch that down. And then we're literally just going to do
[02:31:11] then we're literally just going to do the exact same thing with the lining.
[02:31:13] the exact same thing with the lining. And we can pull it to the side and
[02:31:15] And we can pull it to the side and attach the lining over here. That will
[02:31:17] attach the lining over here. That will mean that the whole jacket at that point
[02:31:19] mean that the whole jacket at that point is fully inside out. The only thing that
[02:31:21] is fully inside out. The only thing that is the opening, the only sort of opening
[02:31:24] is the opening, the only sort of opening on the jacket is the center where the
[02:31:26] on the jacket is the center where the zip would go. So we can then at that
[02:31:28] zip would go. So we can then at that point turn the whole jacket inside out.
[02:31:30] point turn the whole jacket inside out. Make sure that it fits. Try the hood on.
[02:31:32] Make sure that it fits. Try the hood on. And then we're pretty much ready to
[02:31:34] And then we're pretty much ready to finish the jacket. It's just
[02:31:36] finish the jacket. It's just implementing the zipper and the zip
[02:31:38] implementing the zipper and the zip cover. So, let me show you what I'm
[02:31:40] cover. So, let me show you what I'm doing with the the hood. So, you can see
[02:31:42] doing with the the hood. So, you can see I am now looking at the good side of the
[02:31:44] I am now looking at the good side of the fabric facing up on the outer shell and
[02:31:47] fabric facing up on the outer shell and the main sort of jacket. And the same
[02:31:49] the main sort of jacket. And the same with the hood over here. What you're
[02:31:51] with the hood over here. What you're going to do is you're going to flip the
[02:31:52] going to do is you're going to flip the hood over so the good sides are facing
[02:31:54] hood over so the good sides are facing each other. So, we're going to match up
[02:31:56] each other. So, we're going to match up the corner of your hood just right here.
[02:31:58] the corner of your hood just right here. This is the bottom corner of your hood.
[02:32:00] This is the bottom corner of your hood. We're going to do the good sides facing
[02:32:02] We're going to do the good sides facing each other. match it up with the corner
[02:32:04] each other. match it up with the corner of your center front and the neckline of
[02:32:06] of your center front and the neckline of the outer shell. And then we're just
[02:32:08] the outer shell. And then we're just going to run this all the way along. We
[02:32:10] going to run this all the way along. We can move the lining out the way for
[02:32:12] can move the lining out the way for this. And then we're going to stitch it
[02:32:13] this. And then we're going to stitch it all the way down. If for some reason the
[02:32:16] all the way down. If for some reason the neckline is slightly longer. What I like
[02:32:19] neckline is slightly longer. What I like to do, I think it adds quite nice volume
[02:32:21] to do, I think it adds quite nice volume to the jacket too, is the exact same
[02:32:22] to the jacket too, is the exact same thing we might have have done for the
[02:32:24] thing we might have have done for the sleeves, and that is just add a tiny
[02:32:25] sleeves, and that is just add a tiny little dart in the middle. I think it
[02:32:27] little dart in the middle. I think it just adds a really nice sort of, you
[02:32:29] just adds a really nice sort of, you know, bit of volume for the back of the
[02:32:30] know, bit of volume for the back of the neck, too. So, it should fit all
[02:32:32] neck, too. So, it should fit all perfect, but if it doesn't, then do that
[02:32:34] perfect, but if it doesn't, then do that and then we can move forward. Let's
[02:32:35] and then we can move forward. Let's stitch this down.
[02:32:45] So, now your main hood is attached to
[02:32:48] So, now your main hood is attached to the outer shell of the garment. You can
[02:32:50] the outer shell of the garment. You can see that this was the sort of uh dart
[02:32:52] see that this was the sort of uh dart we've just implemented, this kind of
[02:32:54] we've just implemented, this kind of pleat that we've just implemented into
[02:32:56] pleat that we've just implemented into the back. You shouldn't have to do that,
[02:32:57] the back. You shouldn't have to do that, but if you do, I think it actually adds
[02:32:59] but if you do, I think it actually adds to it and makes it really nice. Anyway,
[02:33:01] to it and makes it really nice. Anyway, what we're going to do now is we're
[02:33:02] what we're going to do now is we're going to do the exact same thing but for
[02:33:03] going to do the exact same thing but for the lining. So, if you move back is the
[02:33:05] the lining. So, if you move back is the easiest way to do this is literally just
[02:33:07] easiest way to do this is literally just to flip it over the table like that and
[02:33:09] to flip it over the table like that and then wrap. And then you can wrap twice.
[02:33:11] then wrap. And then you can wrap twice. And that sort of wrap twice will mean
[02:33:13] And that sort of wrap twice will mean that the front facings will be facing
[02:33:15] that the front facings will be facing each other. And now we're just going to
[02:33:17] each other. And now we're just going to do the exact same procedure and stitch
[02:33:19] do the exact same procedure and stitch along this lining and facing of the
[02:33:22] along this lining and facing of the inside of the garment. So, we're just
[02:33:24] inside of the garment. So, we're just lining of the hood, good side of the
[02:33:26] lining of the hood, good side of the lining of the hood facing the good side
[02:33:29] lining of the hood facing the good side of the facings on top of your lining on
[02:33:32] of the facings on top of your lining on the inside lining of your jacket. If
[02:33:34] the inside lining of your jacket. If that makes sense. We're just doing the
[02:33:36] that makes sense. We're just doing the exact same thing but for the lining.
[02:33:38] exact same thing but for the lining. Now,
[02:34:00] Just like that.
[02:34:02] Just like that. Now, I've just stitched the lining part
[02:34:05] Now, I've just stitched the lining part of the hood together, and you should
[02:34:06] of the hood together, and you should have pretty much the inside out version
[02:34:08] have pretty much the inside out version of the jacket. Now, what we're going to
[02:34:10] of the jacket. Now, what we're going to do is I'm going to show you how to sort
[02:34:11] do is I'm going to show you how to sort of turn it inside out the right way.
[02:34:13] of turn it inside out the right way. There isn't like a I guess there is a
[02:34:14] There isn't like a I guess there is a right or wrong way, but you just want to
[02:34:16] right or wrong way, but you just want to make sure that everything is turned
[02:34:17] make sure that everything is turned inside out the right way. And now we can
[02:34:19] inside out the right way. And now we can sort of see the finished jacket sort of
[02:34:21] sort of see the finished jacket sort of take place. So I'm going to pull
[02:34:23] take place. So I'm going to pull everything inside out. We've got the
[02:34:25] everything inside out. We've got the same thing but right way up. Very
[02:34:28] same thing but right way up. Very simple. But the sleeves will stay on the
[02:34:31] simple. But the sleeves will stay on the inside obviously. And then what you want
[02:34:32] inside obviously. And then what you want to do is at this point you literally
[02:34:35] to do is at this point you literally just want to put your hand in from the
[02:34:38] just want to put your hand in from the outside the sleeve. And you just want to
[02:34:40] outside the sleeve. And you just want to pull it through halfway. So you can grab
[02:34:42] pull it through halfway. So you can grab the ribbing from inside. I can kind of
[02:34:44] the ribbing from inside. I can kind of feel where the ribbing is right there. I
[02:34:45] feel where the ribbing is right there. I can feel where the ribbing is. And then
[02:34:47] can feel where the ribbing is. And then I'm literally just going to pull the
[02:34:48] I'm literally just going to pull the sleeve through so it's the right way
[02:34:51] sleeve through so it's the right way there. And I'll do the same for the
[02:34:53] there. And I'll do the same for the other side.
[02:34:56] Now your jacket is going to start to
[02:34:58] Now your jacket is going to start to show what it looks like, which is super
[02:35:01] show what it looks like, which is super super super nice. You can kind of just
[02:35:03] super super nice. You can kind of just put your hand in and mess around with it
[02:35:05] put your hand in and mess around with it to make sure it fits properly. And the
[02:35:07] to make sure it fits properly. And the same with the other side, but it should
[02:35:09] same with the other side, but it should be the exact replica of the inside to
[02:35:11] be the exact replica of the inside to the outside. So it should just fit
[02:35:13] the outside. So it should just fit nicely. Now, what you've done is you've
[02:35:15] nicely. Now, what you've done is you've made yourself a bomber jacket and we are
[02:35:17] made yourself a bomber jacket and we are now going to implement the zip onto the
[02:35:19] now going to implement the zip onto the inside. The hood looks sick. That looks
[02:35:23] inside. The hood looks sick. That looks mad. Now, we're going to put the put the
[02:35:25] mad. Now, we're going to put the put the zip in place. And then you've made
[02:35:28] zip in place. And then you've made yourself a bomber jacket.
[02:35:34] So, we're going to focus in now on the
[02:35:36] So, we're going to focus in now on the final step of the process, and that is
[02:35:39] final step of the process, and that is doing the zipper cover. And the way
[02:35:41] doing the zipper cover. And the way we're going to do this is we're actually
[02:35:43] we're going to do this is we're actually going to stitch the zipper onto the
[02:35:45] going to stitch the zipper onto the zipper cover. And we're going to do this
[02:35:47] zipper cover. And we're going to do this with a normal foot. And that is because
[02:35:49] with a normal foot. And that is because when we actually stitch this into the
[02:35:51] when we actually stitch this into the garment with a zipper foot, the zipper
[02:35:53] garment with a zipper foot, the zipper foot will sort of have a smaller seam
[02:35:55] foot will sort of have a smaller seam allowance. So it will hide this first
[02:35:57] allowance. So it will hide this first piece of stitching that we're doing. I'm
[02:35:59] piece of stitching that we're doing. I'm going to basically sew my zipper right
[02:36:02] going to basically sew my zipper right to the edge. And I'm going to focus on
[02:36:04] to the edge. And I'm going to focus on this left side tape of the zipper. And
[02:36:08] this left side tape of the zipper. And then what you can do to make it easier
[02:36:09] then what you can do to make it easier is you can literally just unzip the
[02:36:11] is you can literally just unzip the zipper and take one of the sides off
[02:36:14] zipper and take one of the sides off because you don't really need it for now
[02:36:16] because you don't really need it for now and it keeps your sort of concentration
[02:36:19] and it keeps your sort of concentration all in one place so you know what you're
[02:36:20] all in one place so you know what you're doing. I'm going to stitch all the way
[02:36:22] doing. I'm going to stitch all the way down this and then I'll show you what to
[02:36:24] down this and then I'll show you what to do after. With the zip cover, it's kind
[02:36:26] do after. With the zip cover, it's kind of your choice what position you want to
[02:36:28] of your choice what position you want to put it on on the zip and it's going to
[02:36:30] put it on on the zip and it's going to make a difference on your final garment.
[02:36:32] make a difference on your final garment. It doesn't make too much of a
[02:36:33] It doesn't make too much of a difference, but as you can see, I'm sort
[02:36:34] difference, but as you can see, I'm sort of running mine so it doesn't run all
[02:36:36] of running mine so it doesn't run all the way to the bottom. This is because
[02:36:38] the way to the bottom. This is because it then won't run over the sort of
[02:36:39] it then won't run over the sort of bottom facing, that sort of facing that
[02:36:42] bottom facing, that sort of facing that is on the end of your ribbing. And it
[02:36:44] is on the end of your ribbing. And it also doesn't run to the top of the zip.
[02:36:45] also doesn't run to the top of the zip. And the reason it doesn't do is mainly
[02:36:48] And the reason it doesn't do is mainly just because there's a top part of the
[02:36:49] just because there's a top part of the hood and it basically just slightly goes
[02:36:51] hood and it basically just slightly goes over your face. So I don't want that
[02:36:53] over your face. So I don't want that sort of cover to be over my face. So
[02:36:55] sort of cover to be over my face. So yeah, this is sort of the way I'm
[02:36:57] yeah, this is sort of the way I'm positioning it. You can kind of just
[02:36:58] positioning it. You can kind of just like compare it to the final garment and
[02:37:00] like compare it to the final garment and uh put it right next to your final
[02:37:02] uh put it right next to your final garment and you'll you'll be able to
[02:37:03] garment and you'll you'll be able to know where where you want to sort of put
[02:37:05] know where where you want to sort of put your cover. You can even cut this like
[02:37:07] your cover. You can even cut this like cover shorter if you want to before
[02:37:08] cover shorter if you want to before you've actually stitched it all
[02:37:10] you've actually stitched it all together. You don't need to run with the
[02:37:11] together. You don't need to run with the exact size we've provided. If you just
[02:37:13] exact size we've provided. If you just want a small zip cover, that's fine. If
[02:37:15] want a small zip cover, that's fine. If you want a big one that goes the full
[02:37:17] you want a big one that goes the full way down, cut it to the exact length of
[02:37:19] way down, cut it to the exact length of your zipper.
[02:37:29] Right here you can see that you've got
[02:37:31] Right here you can see that you've got your left or wearer's right sort of
[02:37:34] your left or wearer's right sort of zipper integrated into the into the zip
[02:37:37] zipper integrated into the into the zip cover. What we're going to do, follow my
[02:37:39] cover. What we're going to do, follow my lead. We're going to turn it and
[02:37:42] lead. We're going to turn it and basically do the back facing. So the
[02:37:44] basically do the back facing. So the back of the zipper against the front
[02:37:47] back of the zipper against the front facing of the inside lining. And we're
[02:37:49] facing of the inside lining. And we're going to line it up where we want to do
[02:37:51] going to line it up where we want to do it. My zip is slightly shorter, but I'm
[02:37:53] it. My zip is slightly shorter, but I'm going to just sort of play with that a
[02:37:54] going to just sort of play with that a little bit. And then it's going to run
[02:37:55] little bit. And then it's going to run all the way down the inside. And we're
[02:37:57] all the way down the inside. And we're going to stitch it into the inside of
[02:38:00] going to stitch it into the inside of the jacket just like this. So the back
[02:38:02] the jacket just like this. So the back of the zipper, the back of the zip cover
[02:38:04] of the zipper, the back of the zip cover too goes together with the inside
[02:38:09] too goes together with the inside lining. And that is the front facing of
[02:38:11] lining. And that is the front facing of the inside lining and the back of the
[02:38:12] the inside lining and the back of the zipper. We're going to stitch this all
[02:38:14] zipper. We're going to stitch this all the way down. And the reason we're doing
[02:38:15] the way down. And the reason we're doing it this way is so that we can turn it
[02:38:17] it this way is so that we can turn it the right way and then sort of match up
[02:38:20] the right way and then sort of match up the front. Pinch, roll, sort of like
[02:38:21] the front. Pinch, roll, sort of like then pin, and then top stitch down the
[02:38:24] then pin, and then top stitch down the outside. It just it just positions our
[02:38:26] outside. It just it just positions our zipper. first then we can sort of place
[02:38:27] zipper. first then we can sort of place it in the right way. So, I'm going to
[02:38:29] it in the right way. So, I'm going to stitch all the way down this zipper and
[02:38:31] stitch all the way down this zipper and then we will show you what to do.
[02:38:46] So, we can see that we've stitched it
[02:38:48] So, we can see that we've stitched it down. And if you flip it the, you know,
[02:38:50] down. And if you flip it the, you know, the right way up, you can see that it
[02:38:51] the right way up, you can see that it naturally fits running all the way down.
[02:38:53] naturally fits running all the way down. And what we're going to do, starting
[02:38:54] And what we're going to do, starting from the top over here, is we're
[02:38:57] from the top over here, is we're basically going to naturally fold the
[02:39:00] basically going to naturally fold the outside fabric and place it just over
[02:39:03] outside fabric and place it just over that stitch mark that we have done,
[02:39:05] that stitch mark that we have done, making sure that it runs all the way
[02:39:06] making sure that it runs all the way down the jacket. And we're going to pin
[02:39:09] down the jacket. And we're going to pin all along this and sort of fold pin. And
[02:39:12] all along this and sort of fold pin. And then this is going to act as our top
[02:39:14] then this is going to act as our top stitch, which will close off the inside
[02:39:16] stitch, which will close off the inside and add a really nice top stitch. So it
[02:39:18] and add a really nice top stitch. So it will make it super super seamless. You
[02:39:20] will make it super super seamless. You want to make sure that whilst you're
[02:39:21] want to make sure that whilst you're doing this, there's not a lot of
[02:39:22] doing this, there's not a lot of bunching. You can sort of see that. We
[02:39:25] bunching. You can sort of see that. We want to just go along. And you want to
[02:39:27] want to just go along. And you want to make sure that when you throw your pins
[02:39:28] make sure that when you throw your pins in to this, it goes through all the
[02:39:32] in to this, it goes through all the zipper, the outer shell, and the lining.
[02:39:34] zipper, the outer shell, and the lining. If you look at this pin on the other
[02:39:36] If you look at this pin on the other side, you can see that it will
[02:39:37] side, you can see that it will correspond perfectly and run along. I'll
[02:39:39] correspond perfectly and run along. I'll show you again in a minute what I mean.
[02:39:45] You can see that once I've placed that
[02:39:47] You can see that once I've placed that pin in there on the other side, it will
[02:39:49] pin in there on the other side, it will match up perfectly. And if you've pinned
[02:39:51] match up perfectly. And if you've pinned correctly and followed the the sort of
[02:39:53] correctly and followed the the sort of fold matching the stitch line, then you
[02:39:55] fold matching the stitch line, then you know that when you throw that pin in, it
[02:39:57] know that when you throw that pin in, it will match up perfectly with the other
[02:40:00] will match up perfectly with the other side of your garment. Just like that. So
[02:40:02] side of your garment. Just like that. So then when you go to do the stitch on the
[02:40:04] then when you go to do the stitch on the outside, making sure we're stitching
[02:40:06] outside, making sure we're stitching from the outside and not the inside, as
[02:40:07] from the outside and not the inside, as you don't want your bobbin thread to be
[02:40:09] you don't want your bobbin thread to be your final stitch on the garment in case
[02:40:11] your final stitch on the garment in case it messes up, then it will all match up
[02:40:13] it messes up, then it will all match up perfectly and look really, really,
[02:40:14] perfectly and look really, really, really clean. So keep following along,
[02:40:18] really clean. So keep following along, making sure that it's slightly over that
[02:40:21] making sure that it's slightly over that sort of stitch we made before for a pin.
[02:40:24] sort of stitch we made before for a pin. And then double check the other side
[02:40:26] And then double check the other side that it's in the right place, which it
[02:40:27] that it's in the right place, which it is. Make your way down the garment
[02:40:39] and you can sort of just fold over the
[02:40:41] and you can sort of just fold over the bottom.
[02:40:44] And just like that, your zip is now
[02:40:46] And just like that, your zip is now implemented and you can run a nice top
[02:40:48] implemented and you can run a nice top stitch all the way down.
[02:41:00] I am really, really, really, really
[02:41:02] I am really, really, really, really happy with this. I think this looks
[02:41:04] happy with this. I think this looks absolutely insane. Look at that.
[02:41:09] That looks sick. And the zip fully
[02:41:11] That looks sick. And the zip fully functions all the way up,
[02:41:14] functions all the way up, all the way down. So, now we're just
[02:41:16] all the way down. So, now we're just going to implement the other side of the
[02:41:18] going to implement the other side of the zip. And we just want to make sure that
[02:41:20] zip. And we just want to make sure that when we're doing the other side of the
[02:41:21] when we're doing the other side of the zip, we're matching it up perfectly
[02:41:23] zip, we're matching it up perfectly because if it's not matched up
[02:41:24] because if it's not matched up perfectly, it'll make the jacket look a
[02:41:26] perfectly, it'll make the jacket look a little bit odd. So, what you can do to
[02:41:28] little bit odd. So, what you can do to match it up perfectly is you can just
[02:41:29] match it up perfectly is you can just place these two pieces together and make
[02:41:32] place these two pieces together and make sure that they're perfectly at the top.
[02:41:34] sure that they're perfectly at the top. Match this little seam down here. And
[02:41:36] Match this little seam down here. And then I'm actually just going to grab my
[02:41:37] then I'm actually just going to grab my wax pen and I'm going to mark where the
[02:41:39] wax pen and I'm going to mark where the zipper actually starts on the outer
[02:41:41] zipper actually starts on the outer fabric. And I'm going to do the same for
[02:41:44] fabric. And I'm going to do the same for the bottom just so we can get that
[02:41:45] the bottom just so we can get that alignment of the zip perfect. and then
[02:41:47] alignment of the zip perfect. and then we will we'll smash out putting in the
[02:41:49] we will we'll smash out putting in the zip. So, I'm now going to implement the
[02:41:51] zip. So, I'm now going to implement the last piece of the puzzle and that is the
[02:41:54] last piece of the puzzle and that is the other side of the zipper, the piece
[02:41:56] other side of the zipper, the piece without the zip puller on. How we're
[02:41:58] without the zip puller on. How we're going to do this is we're basically
[02:41:59] going to do this is we're basically going to do the exact same procedure as
[02:42:01] going to do the exact same procedure as we did for the zip cover and the zip,
[02:42:03] we did for the zip cover and the zip, but obviously this part does not have a
[02:42:05] but obviously this part does not have a zip cover on. So, the way we're going to
[02:42:07] zip cover on. So, the way we're going to do it is we're just going to flip it
[02:42:08] do it is we're just going to flip it over so the front facing of the zip is
[02:42:12] over so the front facing of the zip is facing the good side of the lining. And
[02:42:14] facing the good side of the lining. And we're going to stitch all the way down.
[02:42:17] we're going to stitch all the way down. And then do the same thing where we turn
[02:42:18] And then do the same thing where we turn the right way up and it should be
[02:42:20] the right way up and it should be attached to the lining. And then we're
[02:42:21] attached to the lining. And then we're going to make sure that we're folding
[02:42:22] going to make sure that we're folding and then we hit the zip with the top
[02:42:24] and then we hit the zip with the top stitch. Exactly the same as the other
[02:42:26] stitch. Exactly the same as the other side. And then this will basically
[02:42:28] side. And then this will basically implement both zippers and we'll be
[02:42:30] implement both zippers and we'll be fully completed on the jacket. So, I
[02:42:33] fully completed on the jacket. So, I have just used pins to pin this all
[02:42:36] have just used pins to pin this all along here, as you can see. And I've
[02:42:38] along here, as you can see. And I've just done the direction of the pins the
[02:42:39] just done the direction of the pins the way I'm sewing. So, I can just pull them
[02:42:41] way I'm sewing. So, I can just pull them out as I go. Remember, you're not sewing
[02:42:43] out as I go. Remember, you're not sewing the outer shell of the fabric. We're
[02:42:45] the outer shell of the fabric. We're just sewing it to the inside lining,
[02:42:47] just sewing it to the inside lining, turning it over once it's sewn, and then
[02:42:50] turning it over once it's sewn, and then doing the fold and the pin, and then
[02:42:51] doing the fold and the pin, and then making sure that we're hitting the top
[02:42:53] making sure that we're hitting the top stitch on the outside shell. Hopefully,
[02:42:55] stitch on the outside shell. Hopefully, that makes sense. I'm going to film it,
[02:42:58] that makes sense. I'm going to film it, show you, and then we'll be finished
[02:42:59] show you, and then we'll be finished with the whole jacket, and I can show
[02:43:00] with the whole jacket, and I can show you what it looks like. And hopefully
[02:43:02] you what it looks like. And hopefully you'll be able to show yourself what
[02:43:04] you'll be able to show yourself what yours looks like.
[02:43:34] So, that final stitch finishes the
[02:43:38] So, that final stitch finishes the complete jacket. And I am actually
[02:43:41] complete jacket. And I am actually incredibly gassed with this. As you can
[02:43:43] incredibly gassed with this. As you can see, I've got the rough cut um sort of
[02:43:45] see, I've got the rough cut um sort of arrow up there. And we've just finished
[02:43:47] arrow up there. And we've just finished the Arero Classic with the hood. There
[02:43:50] the Arero Classic with the hood. There was one thing I wanted to change and I
[02:43:51] was one thing I wanted to change and I think I'm going to add it as a little
[02:43:53] think I'm going to add it as a little separate PDF that goes in the pattern
[02:43:55] separate PDF that goes in the pattern too. Um, and that is just the inside
[02:43:57] too. Um, and that is just the inside facings of the hood. Just I think that
[02:44:00] facings of the hood. Just I think that we can add some small facings around
[02:44:01] we can add some small facings around this sort of area here and it will sort
[02:44:04] this sort of area here and it will sort of clean up depending on what fabric
[02:44:05] of clean up depending on what fabric you're using. Uh, we just went straight
[02:44:08] you're using. Uh, we just went straight for doing it this way. But but that'll
[02:44:10] for doing it this way. But but that'll be an optional add-on. It'll just be to
[02:44:12] be an optional add-on. It'll just be to construct the the actual lining to the
[02:44:14] construct the the actual lining to the facing and then treat that as the hood
[02:44:16] facing and then treat that as the hood afterwards. But I'm going to add that
[02:44:18] afterwards. But I'm going to add that afterwards. I am so happy with this. The
[02:44:21] afterwards. I am so happy with this. The orange works perfect. The welted
[02:44:23] orange works perfect. The welted pockets, the consistency of the zip on
[02:44:25] pockets, the consistency of the zip on the welted pocket in the middle and the
[02:44:28] the welted pocket in the middle and the sleeve sort of zip pocket. They've both
[02:44:30] sleeve sort of zip pocket. They've both got the same sort of Talon zips. The
[02:44:32] got the same sort of Talon zips. The main sort of zipper runs the same sort
[02:44:35] main sort of zipper runs the same sort of brass colorway. The brown sort of wax
[02:44:39] of brass colorway. The brown sort of wax polyester with the brown ribbing and
[02:44:41] polyester with the brown ribbing and then the orange inside. The orange
[02:44:43] then the orange inside. The orange matches on all the pockets. And then the
[02:44:45] matches on all the pockets. And then the inside,
[02:44:47] inside, you know, the inside also has this uh,
[02:44:50] you know, the inside also has this uh, you know, that burnt sort of orange,
[02:44:51] you know, that burnt sort of orange, which is super super nice. Quilted a
[02:44:54] which is super super nice. Quilted a little bit wider, so that sort of like
[02:44:56] little bit wider, so that sort of like open quilting density. Um, the two
[02:44:59] open quilting density. Um, the two pockets, the welt and the patch pocket
[02:45:01] pockets, the welt and the patch pocket on the inside. And the whole thing is
[02:45:03] on the inside. And the whole thing is technically reversible. If you did put a
[02:45:05] technically reversible. If you did put a reversible zip on the garment and the
[02:45:07] reversible zip on the garment and the hood, then the whole thing will function
[02:45:09] hood, then the whole thing will function reversible. Anyway, so yeah, I I'm so
[02:45:12] reversible. Anyway, so yeah, I I'm so happy with this. I hope you followed
[02:45:14] happy with this. I hope you followed along and whether you're making this one
[02:45:16] along and whether you're making this one or you're making the rough cut arrow. Um
[02:45:20] or you're making the rough cut arrow. Um they're all on the website. It's the
[02:45:21] they're all on the website. It's the same pattern. It's the same price for
[02:45:23] same pattern. It's the same price for both patterns. Uh we're trying to
[02:45:25] both patterns. Uh we're trying to provide value here and the support is
[02:45:27] provide value here and the support is helping us make more patterns as we go
[02:45:29] helping us make more patterns as we go along. But yeah, I'm I'm super super
[02:45:32] along. But yeah, I'm I'm super super grateful for the support recently. The
[02:45:34] grateful for the support recently. The patterns should be live as of this
[02:45:36] patterns should be live as of this video. They will be. And they are uh £11
[02:45:39] video. They will be. And they are uh £11 on early access or £15.95 for the rest
[02:45:43] on early access or £15.95 for the rest of time. And you get both PDFs, the
[02:45:45] of time. And you get both PDFs, the Rough Cut Arrow and the Classic Arrow.
[02:45:48] Rough Cut Arrow and the Classic Arrow. And yeah, I could not be more happy. I
[02:45:51] And yeah, I could not be more happy. I hope you finished this and got the same
[02:45:53] hope you finished this and got the same result and you're super proud of what
[02:45:54] result and you're super proud of what you've made. Yeah, if you're interested
[02:45:56] you've made. Yeah, if you're interested in making the rib sort of neckline or
[02:45:58] in making the rib sort of neckline or the insulated collar, go watch the other
[02:46:00] the insulated collar, go watch the other videos. If you want to know how to do
[02:46:02] videos. If you want to know how to do some more pocket designs or different
[02:46:04] some more pocket designs or different types of pockets integrated into this
[02:46:06] types of pockets integrated into this like the cargo pockets for the rough cut
[02:46:08] like the cargo pockets for the rough cut then you can watch that video too. But
[02:46:10] then you can watch that video too. But all the sort of main structure of the
[02:46:12] all the sort of main structure of the garment is the same. You know the Aero
[02:46:15] garment is the same. You know the Aero Classic and the Aero Rough Cut has the
[02:46:17] Classic and the Aero Rough Cut has the same structure. It's still a bomber
[02:46:18] same structure. It's still a bomber jacket. playing on the heritage of the
[02:46:20] jacket. playing on the heritage of the MA1, MA2 with the shape. And then, you
[02:46:24] MA1, MA2 with the shape. And then, you know, there's them different patch
[02:46:25] know, there's them different patch pockets, the the, you know, the fishtail
[02:46:27] pockets, the the, you know, the fishtail hood uh to pay homage to the N2B and the
[02:46:32] hood uh to pay homage to the N2B and the A2. So, yeah, I hope you enjoyed. Thank
[02:46:34] A2. So, yeah, I hope you enjoyed. Thank you for watching. Stick around. There is
[02:46:37] you for watching. Stick around. There is so many patterns coming out. Like, we
[02:46:39] so many patterns coming out. Like, we feel like we've only just started. Me
[02:46:41] feel like we've only just started. Me and Gio are so so happy to just keep
[02:46:44] and Gio are so so happy to just keep smashing them out and adding tutorials.
[02:46:46] smashing them out and adding tutorials. Thank you for sticking around for this
[02:46:48] Thank you for sticking around for this long video. If you've got made it to the
[02:46:49] long video. If you've got made it to the end and finished, I'll catch you in the
[02:46:52] end and finished, I'll catch you in the next video. So, see you in a bit.