# Completing My Double Bespoke Commission | Final Fitting & Delivery at Henry Poole | Kirby Allison

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PSlgOd24-s
Translation: zh-CN

[00:09] Hi, I'm Kirby Allison and we're back here in London for a very exciting moment in my journey with Henry Pool.
  大家好，我是柯比·艾莉森，我们又回到伦敦了，这是我与亨利·普尔一段非常激动人心的旅程中的一个时刻。

[00:15] It is the final blessing or delivery of my latest two commissions for the firm.
  这是我为这家公司定制的最新两件作品的最终祝福或交付。

[00:20] So, join me as we step inside Henry Pool to see quality, craftsmanship, and tradition at its finest.
  所以，和我一起走进亨利·普尔，看看最顶级的品质、工艺和传统。

[00:32] Ah, look at these.
  啊，看看这些。

[00:35] This is exciting.
  这真令人兴奋。

[00:36] So, here we have it, Kobe.
  所以，我们有了，科比。

[00:38] This is the final blessing, the fitting today where we just tweak the little small little things.
  这是最终的祝福，今天的试穿，我们只是微调一些小小的细节。

[00:41] A perfect takeaway scenario, and you still get a chance to break it in like a new pair of shoes that starts to mold around the body.
  一个完美的收尾场景，你仍然有机会像新鞋一样把它穿合脚，让它开始贴合身体。

[00:45] Yeah.
  是的。

[00:46] I mean, culmination of an incredible bespoke journey, of course, all comes to this moment, right?
  我的意思是，这是一段令人难以置信的定制旅程的高潮，当然，一切都归结于这一刻，对吧？

[00:50] that moment of uh the final blessing and delivery of the garment and the opportunity if he should be so lucky to actually try it on and see how great it looks.
  那个时刻，呃，最终的祝福和服装的交付，以及如果他足够幸运，有机会试穿并看看它有多棒。

[00:58] Yeah.
  是的。

[01:00] So we we obviously got that lovely Prince of Wales check, the very subtle
  所以我们显然得到了那件可爱的威尔士亲王格纹，非常微妙的

[01:02] check, you remember obviously this time around.
  检查，你显然记得这次。

[01:04] Now we're at the final stage.
  现在我们处于最后阶段。

[01:05] All the handworks gone into the edging.
  所有的手工都用在了镶边上。

[01:07] We got the hand button holes inside.
  我们里面有手工纽扣孔。

[01:09] We have of course your wonderful bineer to catch the little flower inside there for the loop itself.
  当然，我们有您精美的细绳来固定里面的小花，用于环本身。

[01:14] Um all of this has been done now.
  嗯，所有这些现在都完成了。

[01:16] The line is put inside with a lovely British racing green.
  里面放了漂亮的英国赛车绿色的线条。

[01:17] Yeah, the pool green and it's a beautiful color.
  是的，池塘绿，这是一个美丽的颜色。

[01:21] Yeah.
  是的。

[01:21] So, it goes really nicely with gray.
  所以，它和灰色搭配得非常好。

[01:22] So, again, you can probably have green braces.
  所以，再说一次，你可能可以有绿色的吊带。

[01:24] We got blue at the moment, but we can switch to to to pool green as well, which is quite nice to work with that, too.
  我们目前有蓝色，但我们也可以换成池塘绿，这也很好搭配。

[01:30] Um, so that's the first stage or final stage of this suit.
  嗯，所以这是这套西装的第一阶段或最后阶段。

[01:32] Okay.
  好的。

[01:33] Yeah.
  是的。

[01:33] Beautiful.
  太棒了。

[01:33] I'm going to get a lot of use out of this for sure.
  我肯定会经常使用它。

[01:36] Proper proper London city suit.
  非常非常伦敦都市风格的西装。

[01:38] Yeah.
  是的。

[01:38] And you can wear this, you know, for business and day and evening.
  而且你可以穿这个，你知道，用于商务、白天和晚上。

[01:40] So, it's that one suit lasts you all day.
  所以，就是这一套西装可以让你穿一整天。

[01:41] That's the beauty of it.
  这就是它的美妙之处。

[01:43] Yeah.
  是的。

[01:44] I mean, it's such an important kind of foundational item that uh I you know, a gentleman can never have too many in his wardrobe essential.
  我的意思是，这是一个如此重要的基础单品，以至于我你知道，一个绅士的衣橱里永远不会有太多必需品。

[01:49] Especially when traveling, right?
  尤其是在旅行时，对吧？

[01:51] All the more important to have something versatile.
  拥有多功能的东西就更加重要了。

[01:54] Yeah.
  是的。

[01:54] Wow.
  哇。

[01:55] And then, of course, we're moving on to the pool check, which of course this time around is a super light.
  然后，当然，我们正在转向池塘格纹，当然这次它是超轻的。

[01:58] We've got it now uh from going from 11 oz uh down
  我们现在有了它，呃，从11盎司呃降到

[02:03] to now 6 and 12.
  现在是6和12。

[02:04] So, 6 and 12 o.
  所以，是6和12点。

[02:07] So, this is perfect for the really hot temperatures like you have in in Dallas and and Texas.
  所以，这非常适合像达拉斯和德克萨斯那样非常炎热的温度。

[02:11] You can move it into Florida.
  你可以把它穿到佛罗里达。

[02:13] You can wear wear this in Los Angeles, but it's just lovely to work with.
  你可以在洛杉矶穿这件衣服，但它非常适合搭配。

[02:15] You, as you know, you wear it with jeans, you can wear it with um corduroys, you can wear it with the flannel trousers.
  你知道的，你可以搭配牛仔裤穿，可以搭配灯芯绒裤穿，可以搭配法兰绒长裤穿。

[02:21] And I noticed you're wearing obviously the cavary tools today, the more heavier ones, but of course, these ones coming through now for you are now at um 8 o.
  我注意到你今天显然穿着的是斜纹布裤子，比较厚重的款式，但当然，现在为你送来的这些是8盎司的。

[02:29] So, it's a super lightweight uh cavary to go.
  所以，这是一款超轻便的斜纹布裤子。

[02:31] That's a beautiful color.
  这是个漂亮的颜色。

[02:32] Yeah.
  是的。

[02:33] And I love the contrast, right?
  我喜欢这种对比，对吧？

[02:34] The subtle contrast of the the dark kind of cord and the lighter background color.
  深色灯芯绒和浅色背景色的微妙对比。

[02:39] That's the depth you get from the having the whip cords and the cavary twills.
  这就是斜纹布和斜纹裤带来的层次感。

[02:43] The the whip cords give you the depth of the two colorway.
  斜纹布给你带来了双色调的层次感。

[02:45] So the whip cords give you that edge.
  所以斜纹布给你带来了那种优势。

[02:46] I think it's fantastic with now with, you know, the lovely brogues, the the suede loafers, the browns.
  我认为它现在搭配漂亮的牛津鞋、麂皮乐福鞋、棕色鞋子非常棒。

[02:52] It will look fantastic to travel with to to work with.
  它看起来非常适合旅行和工作搭配。

[02:54] And again, you can wear this um with obviously brown uh ties.
  再说一次，你可以搭配棕色的领带。

[02:59] You can wear it with um blue ties with the candy blue is perfect for this that lovely weave.
  你可以搭配蓝色的领带，糖果蓝非常适合这种漂亮的织物。

[03:03] Yeah.
  是的。

[03:04] But again, open shirt.
  但再说一遍，敞开的衬衫。

[03:05] You don't necessarily need a tie.
  你不一定需要领带。

[03:07] You can wear open shirt as well.
  你也可以穿敞开的衬衫。

[03:09] Just a pale blue is fantastic for this.
  淡蓝色就很适合。

[03:10] We've got the finished off article.
  我们有成品。

[03:11] You've got the hand stitching on the edges.
  边缘有手工缝线。

[03:13] You got the lovely lining inside.
  里面有漂亮的衬里。

[03:15] We're picking up on the blue.
  我们正在呼应蓝色。

[03:16] The finishing in the interior is beautiful.
  内部的做工很漂亮。

[03:18] Yeah.
  是的。

[03:18] You got the little little button holes for you as well for your facing pockets down there with a t button.
  你还有小小的扣眼，还有下面的贴袋，带有一个T形纽扣。

[03:22] A little bit of extra security.
  增加了一点安全性。

[03:24] Yeah, exactly.
  是的，没错。

[03:25] Mhm.
  嗯。

[03:25] And then obviously this is again the button hole with a flower loop on this side as well.
  然后显然这是另一边的扣眼，带有一个花形扣眼。

[03:30] Yes.
  是的。

[03:30] And a lot of colors here, right?
  这里有很多颜色，对吧？

[03:32] So I mean I would imagine that that really creates versatility whenever it comes to the yacht trousers that you're pairing this with.
  所以我想这真的能创造出多功能性，无论你搭配什么样的游艇裤。

[03:36] Totally.
  完全同意。

[03:36] And that was the reason why Angus did it back in the day 198 1987 1987.
  这就是安格斯当年在1987年这样做的原因。

[03:44] But that was the versatility of working with Cameron B cannon from George Harrison's that really knew his colors.
  但那是与卡梅隆·B·坎农合作的通用性，他来自乔治·哈里森，他真的很懂颜色。

[03:47] We got the greens, we've got the browns, we've got the blues, we've got the reds even, but it's very distinctive and you wear it and we've had people wear it make a in the 11 oz a suit out of it even as well.
  我们有绿色，有棕色，有蓝色，甚至有红色，但它非常独特，你可以穿它，我们也有人穿它，甚至用它做了一件11盎司的西装。

[03:58] So it's quite quite dapper.
  所以它相当相当时髦。

[03:59] Yeah.
  是的。

[03:59] And so at this stage, what are you looking for?
  那么在这个阶段，你在寻找什么？

[04:01] I mean, it's a finished garment, but it's just that final check.
  我的意思是，这是一件成品服装，但只是最后的检查。

[04:04] It's all part of that commitment to the integrity of the garment that one finds at Henry Pool.
  这都是对亨利·普尔服装完整性的承诺的一部分。

[04:09] Exactly.
  没错。

[04:09] So, we're now down to the small things, you know, should be nicely on the neck.
  所以，我们现在关注的是细节，你知道，领口应该很贴合。

[04:13] Now, we're looking for that lovely drape and shape into the waist.
  现在，我们正在寻找那优美的垂坠感和腰部的造型。

[04:17] And that's very much down to you as well as an individual.
  这在很大程度上也取决于你个人。

[04:18] We we draw it into the point where you're comfortable, but it looks sharp, but never you need to live in it.
  我们将其收紧到您感到舒适的点，看起来很挺括，但又不必让您觉得束缚。

[04:23] We don't like any pulling on the buttons.
  我们不喜欢纽扣有任何拉扯感。

[04:25] With the cuff itself, we look for that sort of half inch to 38 coming from the bottom of it.
  对于袖口本身，我们希望从底部算起有大约半英寸到八分之三英寸的长度。

[04:29] And the backdrop itself, it has to hopefully have that roll that, you know, gives a nice uh clean look at the back, but we want it a little bit of a roll just to give a little bit so you can least stand with a nice genotonic in your hand.
  而背衬本身，它必须要有那种卷边，你知道，这在背后会给人一种漂亮、干净的感觉，但我们希望它有一点卷边，这样你至少可以手里拿着一杯不错的饮品站着。

[04:40] Absolutely.
  绝对是。

[04:41] That's the idea.
  这就是想法。

[04:41] Got to have that.
  必须要有。

[04:42] You know, it's a very British uh you know, pursuit.
  你知道，这是一种非常英式的追求。

[04:44] Nice genotonic, right?
  不错的饮品，对吧？

[04:47] Beautiful garment.
  精美的服装。

[04:47] Uh and of course, you know, something here on the row representing the the pinnacle really of that expression of craftsmanship.
  呃，当然，你知道，这里排在这里的东西，真的是工艺表达的巅峰。

[04:56] Yep.
  是的。

[04:56] As it has been always.
  一如既往。

[04:56] We still do that today as we did back in 1806.
  我们今天仍然这样做，就像我们在1806年那样。

[05:01] Amazing.
  太棒了。

[05:01] So, um Well, great.
  所以，嗯，好吧，太好了。

[05:01] Well, which one do you think I should try on first?
  那么，你认为我应该先试穿哪一件？

[05:04] I think we'll go further.
  我想我们会继续。

[05:04] Let's do the
  我们来做这个

[05:05] Um, gray one first, then we'll move on to the lighter weight.
  嗯，先看灰色的，然后我们再看轻质的。

[05:08] And it'll be interesting to see the difference between the trousers you're wearing to.
  看看你穿的裤子之间的区别会很有趣。

[05:10] Absolutely.
  绝对的。

[05:11] Absolutely. I can't wait to put it on.
  绝对的。我迫不及待想穿上它。

[05:12] I mean, whenever we did the fitting, it was like uh at least this one, it felt like butter.
  我的意思是，每次试穿的时候，感觉就像黄油一样，至少是这件。

[05:15] I can't wait to see uh what this feels like.
  我迫不及待想看看它感觉如何。

[05:17] Even the jacket because, you know, I've got a of course the tweed shooting jacket, very heavyweight construction, and this is the polar opposite of that.
  就连夹克也是，因为你知道，我当然有那件粗花呢射击夹克，非常重，而这件则与之截然相反。

[05:24] So, I can't wait to feel uh feel it uh you know on my shoulders.
  所以，我迫不及待想在我的肩膀上感受一下。

[05:29] Yeah.
  是的。

[05:29] And the construction is once again is very very much based upon the very soft tailoring in terms of the padding the canvasing and we've dropped out the dmet giving the the bulk.
  而且结构再次非常非常地基于非常柔软的剪裁，在填充和衬布方面，我们去掉了衬垫，使其更显瘦。

[05:37] So, it's very much lightweight and it's only parts of it that actually are indeed having the actual horsehair or lap tear inside here.
  所以，它非常轻便，而且只有部分地方实际上确实有马毛或衬布在里面。

[05:45] It's not the complete piece.
  它不是完整的。

[05:45] So, it really generates a much lighter construction.
  所以，它确实产生了一个更轻的结构。

[05:49] Excellent.
  太棒了。

[05:49] Well, good.
  嗯，好。

[05:50] All right, let's make our way meet Tristan.
  好的，我们去见特里斯坦吧。

[05:52] Right, let's go.
  好的，我们走吧。

[06:21] Well, I mean it feels outstanding.
  嗯，我的意思是它感觉很棒。

[06:24] And I have to say, you know, I it's a it's an honor to have a pool suit in the rotation that I know is going to see a lot of use.
  而且我必须说，你知道，我很荣幸能有一套我所知道会经常使用的泳装轮换。

[06:31] Well, it's a it's a beautiful piece.
  嗯，这是一件很漂亮的作品。

[06:33] It's a timeless piece.
  这是一件永恒的作品。

[06:35] You've got a little minuscule check in there, believe it or not.
  你有没有注意到里面有一个微小的格纹，信不信由你。

[06:37] When you get close to it, you have Prince of Wales check.
  当你靠近它时，你会看到威尔士亲王格纹。

[06:38] It's 11 oz.
  它是11盎司的。

[06:40] So, it's all year round.
  所以，它适合全年穿着。

[06:42] That's the idea.
  这就是想法。

[06:43] Um, you got the lovely sort of ideas of pool with a lovely slanted pocket.
  嗯，你得到了漂亮的斜袋子的泳装的漂亮设计理念。

[06:47] You've got the wonderful U green lining that picks up on the green braces, which is lovely to have.
  你有一个很棒的U形绿色衬里，与绿色吊带相呼应，这很棒。

[06:51] Fantastic.
  太棒了。

[06:52] Okay.
  好的。

[06:54] And then obviously for pool we have the horn buttons which is the two-hole horn buttons.
  然后显然对于泳装，我们有牛角纽扣，也就是两孔牛角纽扣。

[06:59] Very nice feature.
  非常好的特点。

[07:00] Goes back again generations.
  可以追溯到几代人以前。

[07:03] And it really is also the stripe lining which goes into the suits which is also our signature house.
  而且它确实也是条纹衬里，融入了西装，这也是我们标志性的风格。

[07:07] Every house has their own stripe.
  每个品牌都有自己的条纹。

[07:09] So that's one of our signatures too.
  所以这也是我们的标志之一。

[07:11] These subtle hallmarks that really separate you know all of the houses from one another really is the kind of the great pleasure of bespoke tailoring.
  这些微妙的标志真正区分了，你知道，所有品牌之间的区别，这真的是定制裁缝的巨大乐趣。

[07:17] And you know this is a real foundational
  而且你知道这是真正基础的

[07:21] Item. I mean, a dark gray, right?
  单品。我是说，深灰色，对吧？

[07:24] Can wear it during the daytime, night time.
  白天、晚上都可以穿。

[07:27] Um, subtle texture, right?
  嗯，低调的纹理，对吧？

[07:29] So, it's a little bit more visual interest than just a plain worsted solid.
  所以，它比纯粹的精纺素色面料更有视觉趣味。

[07:33] And, uh, you know, if we hadn't the occasion for the suit to shoot, this is probably where I would have started.
  而且，呃，你知道，如果我们没有拍摄这套西装的场合，这可能就是我开始的地方。

[07:38] Yeah. Yeah. This would be the first one you probably started with us.
  是的。是的。这可能是你最先从我们这里开始的。

[07:41] Um, you know, essential wardrobes really come down to sort of two, three blues, perhaps a pin head, perhaps a bird's eye, uh, your gray pin head, your your Glenek.
  嗯，你知道，必备衣橱真的归结为两三种蓝色，也许是细条纹，也许是鸟眼纹，呃，你的灰色细条纹，你的格伦·艾克。

[07:51] These are all really, really good uniforms that you can wear year in year out for, you know, time to come and they're they're absolute timeless pieces.
  这些都是非常非常好的经典款，你可以年复一年地穿着，你知道，在未来很长一段时间里，它们是绝对的永恒单品。

[07:58] Yeah, Tristan, what you I'm happy we're showing just that bare quarter inch of cuff.
  是的，特里斯坦，你我很高兴我们展示了那露出的四分之一英寸的袖口。

[08:01] It's sitting well on your collar.
  它在你的衣领上看起来很合适。

[08:04] Uh we've got a good balance of the the cross chest there, the lapel width.
  呃，我们在这里的胸部交叉处、翻领宽度达到了很好的平衡。

[08:08] Um actually need you to give a few now and then let it settle in and give me some feedback.
  嗯，实际上我需要你现在给一些反馈，然后让它稳定下来，给我一些反馈。

[08:12] Yeah. Okay. And then do you see I mean, you know, do garments, you know, settle?
  是的。好的。然后你看到我的意思是，你知道，衣服，你知道，会稳定下来吗？

[08:16] I mean, after a customer's had an opportunity to wear it a few times, you know, might there be kind of final, you
  我的意思是，在顾客有机会穿几次之后，你知道，会不会有一些最终的，你

[08:21] Know, tweaking that might need to occur?
  知道，可能需要进行调整吗？

[08:23] Every cloth is different, Kirby.
  每块布料都不同，柯比。

[08:25] You know, cashmere blends, linen blends,
  你知道，羊绒混纺，亚麻混纺，

[08:28] you know, they all move around a bit.
  你知道，它们都会稍微移动一下。

[08:29] And especially, you know, you're looking around the shoulder, it's taking its form around your shoulder.
  尤其是，你知道，你看着肩膀，它在你肩膀上成型。

[08:32] It got shoulder blades take care of.
  它有肩胛骨需要照顾。

[08:34] You know, it's these kind of things that express the sort of movement in the canvasing, the cloth itself.
  你知道，正是这些东西表达了衬里、布料本身的运动方式。

[08:40] So, that's what we call the blessing.
  所以，这就是我们所说的“祝福”。

[08:41] It's the time period.
  这是时间段。

[08:43] You know, three, four months from now, if you're passing through London, we, you know, we'd love to see it.
  你知道，从现在起三四个月，如果你经过伦敦，我们，你知道，我们很想看看它。

[08:46] We'd love to tweak it if we have to tweak it.
  如果我们必须调整它，我们很乐意调整它。

[08:49] You know, the roll on the back, we want it clear the back, but nevertheless, it has to have a bit of movement.
  你知道，背部的卷曲，我们希望它清晰，但尽管如此，它必须有一点活动度。

[08:53] We don't expect you to drive with a jacket on, but we certainly expect you to hold a glass.
  我们不指望你穿着夹克开车，但我们肯定希望你能拿着酒杯。

[08:59] So, this is the kind of thing that is important that that the blessing period takes place.
  所以，这就是“祝福”时期发生的重要事情。

[09:02] Yeah.
  是的。

[09:02] And this is the real commitment to the garment, you know, that one finds at a a firm like pool is it's not committed to just, you know, that initial delivery, but really to the garment during its lifetime.
  而且这是对服装的真正承诺，你知道，在像 Pool 这样的公司找到的，它不仅仅是，你知道，最初的交付，而是真正对服装在其生命周期内的承诺。

[09:11] So should the need arise for small alterations or tweaking that is something that pool is always standing behind.
  因此，如果需要进行小的改动或调整，Pool 公司始终会支持。

[09:19] It's it's a personal garment.
  这是一件个性化的服装。

[09:19] So you know I I've seen what I need to see
  所以你知道我，我已经看到了我需要看到的东西

[09:22] today.
  今天。

[09:22] But you need to live in it.
  但你需要适应它。

[09:23] So you need to feel comfortable in it.
  所以你需要感觉舒适。

[09:25] Some people like a very clean coat.
  有些人喜欢非常整洁的西装外套。

[09:26] Some people very like a very comfortable coat and you going away now wearing that uh those little tweaks we're still able to do with the inlays inside the coat and that's personal preference.
  有些人非常喜欢非常舒适的西装外套，而你现在穿着它离开，那些小的调整，我们仍然可以在西装外套内部的衬里上进行，那是个人喜好。

[09:36] Yeah.
  是的。

[09:36] Um, so once you've had a chance to wear it to a meeting, go for dinner, give us that bit of little bit of feedback and we can make those adjustments, pocket depths, sleeve lengths, um, we've still got time to, you know, do a bit of fine tuning if necessary.
  嗯，所以一旦你有机会穿着它去参加会议、去吃晚餐，给我们一点点反馈，我们就可以进行调整，口袋深度、袖子长度，嗯，我们仍然有时间，你知道，如有必要，进行一些微调。

[09:50] Yeah.
  是的。

[09:50] Excellent.
  太好了。

[09:51] And this, of course, was done with the speed of the one fitting.
  当然，这是通过一次试穿的速度完成的。

[09:55] We're less than your previous ones were because we have the pattern right and the posture is there.
  我们比你以前的要少，因为我们有正确的版型，而且姿势也到位了。

[09:58] It's just the small little tweaks that things that need to take place on that fitting.
  只是在试穿时需要进行的一些小的调整。

[10:02] So that's the beauty of having a pattern which Tristan's created for you as well.
  所以这就是拥有Tristan为你创造的版型的优点。

[10:05] And this is one of the characteristics of you know a bespoke relationship is you know the more garments one is having made you know you're still having fittings but the more efficient the entire process becomes.
  而这是你所知道的定制关系的一个特点，你所知道的，一个人制作的服装越多，你所知道的，你仍然在进行试穿，但整个过程变得越来越高效。

[10:16] Uh so with initial consultation and those preliminary two fittings we're really working on the foundation and the balance
  呃，所以通过初步咨询和那两次初步试穿，我们真正是在打好基础和平衡，

[10:22] going forward from that it's fine tuning
  从那以后就是微调了。

[10:23] and then cloth dependent with a little bit of the nuances of weight gain or loss.
  然后衣服会根据体重增加或减轻的细微差别而有所不同。

[10:27] Um so it shouldn't it shouldn't be tight.
  嗯，所以它不应该，它不应该太紧。

[10:29] It should just sit.
  它应该刚刚好。

[10:32] Um people go up and down.
  嗯，人们体重会上下波动。

[10:33] That's part of the process and that's why the one fit and the final blessing is important.
  这是过程的一部分，这就是为什么合身和最终的祝福很重要。

[10:37] Yeah, absolutely.
  是的，当然。

[10:37] Well, well, can I try the uh the other one on as well?
  好吧，好吧，我也可以试试那个吗？

[10:40] Let's move on to the cool check.
  让我们继续检查一下。

[10:41] Excellent.
  太棒了。

[10:41] All right, let's after you, sir.
  好的，先生，您先请。

[11:12] I mean, wow, Simon, I have to admit, I don't think anything would have prepared me for this.
  我的意思是，哇，西蒙，我不得不承认，我认为没有什么能让我为此刻做好准备。

[11:15] It literally feels like I'm wearing a cloud.
  它真的感觉像我穿着一朵云。

[11:17] I mean, it is so light.
  我的意思是，它太轻了。

[11:19] You hardly even notice you're wearing anything at all.
  你几乎注意不到你身上有任何东西。

[11:21] It's 6 and 12 ounce.
  它是六点十二盎司。

[11:21] Uh, we've done the
  呃，我们已经做了

[11:23] lightest construction.
  最轻的结构。

[11:25] We've taken out some of the demand and the the uh inter linings inside.
  我们已经去除了一些内部的衬里。

[11:29] So we've we've given that British silhouette but made it as light as possible.
  所以我们赋予了它英伦廓形，但使其尽可能轻便。

[11:31] Yeah.
  是的。

[11:31] And I must say, you know, in the check you really see the full glory of a proper bespoke garment and the pattern matching.
  我必须说，你知道，在格纹中，你真正看到了定制服装的全部荣耀和图案的匹配。

[11:38] Yeah.
  是的。

[11:38] So you can see the pattern matching here.
  所以你可以在这里看到图案的匹配。

[11:39] I mean obviously working together with the pockets, there's lots of dots, everything, but you can see the majority of the area here is matched up.
  我的意思是，显然与口袋一起工作，有很多点，所有东西，但你可以看到这里的大部分区域是匹配的。

[11:46] Obviously working with the sleeves, top collars, back necks.
  显然，与袖子、领子、后领一起工作。

[11:48] They're all very much part of the checks we work with all the And then the back.
  它们都是我们处理格纹的重要组成部分，然后是背面。

[11:52] I mean, we looked at that in the fitting room, but I mean, the back really is for me, I say the way the hollow comes in the back here is fantastic.
  我的意思是，我们在试衣间看了看，但我的意思是，对我来说，背部确实是，我说这里的背部凹陷方式太棒了。

[11:59] We got a little bit of great drape here.
  我们这里有一点很好的垂坠感。

[12:01] You can still pinch it with your finger just to to keep it there, but nevertheless, it gives you enough room to give a maneuver.
  你仍然可以用手指捏住它，让它保持在那里，但尽管如此，它仍然为你提供了足够的空间来进行操作。

[12:07] So, you can move forward and move back again.
  所以，你可以向前移动，然后再向后移动。

[12:09] And yet, it's clean across the back, you know, on the neck nicely, a nice shoulder shape, and they say the path design of the check running through is is beautiful.
  然而，它在背部很干净，你知道，在脖子处很漂亮，肩部形状很好，他们说贯穿的格纹图案设计非常漂亮。

[12:16] So, all that combined, it really brings aspects to to having a check.
  所以，所有这些结合在一起，确实为格纹增添了方面。

[12:19] Yeah.
  是的。

[12:21] I mean, this is a garment that I mean, one I don't think could possibly
  我的意思是，这是一件衣服，我的意思是，我认为一件不可能

[12:25] grow tired of wearing.
  穿久了会厌倦。

[12:26] That's I mean, it really is.
  我是说，确实如此。

[12:27] It's a very versatile pattern as well.
  它也是一种非常百搭的图案。

[12:28] So, you got lots of different colors in the overcheck allow you to wear your casual clothing, dress it up.
  所以，你有很多不同的格子颜色，可以搭配你的休闲服装，把它穿得更正式。

[12:34] Uh you can play around with different ties as well.
  呃，你也可以搭配不同的领带。

[12:35] Yeah.
  是的。

[12:35] So, it's it's good.
  所以，它很好。

[12:36] And the color of the trousers, I mean, you know, really, you know, perfect.
  还有裤子的颜色，我是说，你知道，真的，你知道，完美。

[12:40] And again, I've got the heavier weight cavalry twills, you know, that I wore in, but this is like, you know, super light.
  再说一次，我穿的是比较重的骑兵斜纹布，你知道，我穿过，但这个就像，你知道，超级轻。

[12:46] I mean, it's, if you told me these were Kashmir, I'd believe you.
  我是说，如果你告诉我这是克什米尔羊绒，我会相信你。

[12:50] Well, if you really got there an 8 oz, you know, whip cord, which really is originally probably around sort of 14 20 ounces back in the day, but now we're down to eight.
  嗯，如果你真的有那种8盎司的，你知道，鞭状粗斜纹布，它实际上最初可能在那个时代是14到20盎司，但现在我们降到了八盎司。

[13:00] And like, you know, temperatures back in Austin, Texas, and down to Houston and Dallas, it gets extremely hot.
  而且，你知道，德克萨斯州奥斯汀那里的温度，以及休斯顿和达拉斯，会变得非常热。

[13:05] And that's where you can enjoy these as well.
  而且你也可以在那里享受它们。

[13:07] So, you know, see your oyster with this.
  所以，你知道，用这个搭配你的牡蛎。

[13:09] You can wear it with jeans, you can wear it with, you know, corduroy to make it look wintry.
  你可以搭配牛仔裤穿，你可以搭配，你知道，灯芯绒来让它看起来像冬天的。

[13:14] You can really mix it up.
  你真的可以混搭。

[13:14] It's beautiful.
  它很漂亮。

[13:16] I mean it's amazing how much you know fabric has come along and you know you know one of the great virtues of a place like pool of course is your access to this
  我是说，令人惊叹的是，你知道，面料已经发展了多少，你知道，你知道，像Pool这样的地方的一个伟大优点当然是你能接触到这些。

[13:25] incredible universe of fabrics right
  令人难以置信的织物世界，对吧

[13:29] you know heavyweights, lightweights, super lightweights
  你知道的，重磅的，轻磅的，超轻磅的

[13:32] you know I mean the entire you know gamut is huge but having someone you know like you Tristan as a bespoke tailor or Simon of course you know with the command of that fabric you know really allows incredible things like this to be made.
  你知道我的意思，整个范围很广，但是有像你 Tristan 这样的定制裁缝，或者 Simon 当然，你知道，对那种面料的掌控，你知道，真的能做出像这样的令人难以置信的东西。

[13:43] We have some beautiful um linen silk and wools as you know we now make into suitings.
  我们有一些漂亮的亚麻丝绸和羊毛，你知道，我们现在把它们做成西装面料。

[13:48] Again imagine this now we have the 67 ounce suiting with linen silk and wool.
  再说一遍，想象一下，我们现在有这种亚麻丝绸和羊毛混纺的 67 盎司西装面料。

[13:53] So the same combination but in a dark blue you know it looks fantastic.
  所以是同样的组合，但是是深蓝色，你知道，看起来很棒。

[13:57] We've got now this is a n a 9 oz flannel.
  我们现在有这件 9 盎司的法兰绒。

[14:00] So again the the flannels are coming out lighter so it gives you a longer period to wear them.
  所以，法兰绒又变得更轻了，这样你就可以穿更长的时间了。

[14:05] So all these fabrics coming out which we really bring on the customer to enjoy and they're really loving it that these are resisting.
  所以所有这些面料都出来了，我们真的让顾客去享受，他们真的很喜欢这些抗皱的面料。

[14:10] Yeah, I mean the hand of these fabrics, right?
  是的，我的意思是这些面料的手感，对吧？

[14:12] I mean, are just, you know, like what you said, truly something to enjoy.
  我的意思是，就像你说的，确实是值得享受的。

[14:16] I mean, not just the garment, but the feeling of the fabric itself.
  我的意思是，不仅仅是服装本身，还有面料本身的感觉。

[14:20] Yeah, absolutely.
  是的，绝对的。

[14:21] We've got a worldwide based customer and uh they're traveling a lot um different
  我们的客户遍布世界各地，他们经常旅行，嗯，不同的

[14:26] climates and they want versatile pieces.
  气候，他们想要多功能的单品。

[14:28] So, sports coats they can wear through an airport, they can dress it up for a meeting and then, you know, a couple of pairs of trousers and they've got two outfits so they can travel light and it's a very versatile sort of uniforms essentially.
  所以，运动外套他们可以穿着去机场，可以搭配得体去开会，然后，你知道，再配几条裤子，他们就有两套衣服了，这样他们就可以轻装出行，这是一种非常百搭的制服。

[14:37] Yeah.
  是的。

[14:39] Yeah. Well, I can't wait, you know, putting, you know, putting the miles on these incredible garments.
  是的。嗯，我迫不及待了，你知道，穿着，你知道，穿着这些不可思议的服装去旅行。

[14:42] And, uh, you know, I'm well taken care of.
  而且，呃，你知道，我得到了很好的照顾。

[14:44] I've got the beautiful dark gray Prince of Wales, right?
  我有了这件漂亮的深灰色威尔士亲王格纹的，对吧？

[14:48] Beautiful visual texture, right?
  漂亮的视觉纹理，对吧？

[14:51] But formal, something I can wear, uh, you know, in the city, uh, you know, during the daytime or even, uh, you know, at night.
  但是正式，我可以穿着它，呃，你知道，在城市里，呃，你知道，白天或者甚至，呃，你知道，晚上。

[14:59] And then something like this, you know, for slightly more casual, uh, you know, opportunities, right?
  然后像这样的，你知道，对于稍微更休闲的，呃，你知道，场合，对吧？

[15:02] I can wear it, you know, the coast, Monte Carlo, wear it, um, on the weekend.
  我可以穿着它，你知道，在海边，蒙特卡洛，穿着它，嗯，在周末。

[15:07] I want to see you with a nice cigar in some lunch bar and enjoying that.
  我想看到你在某个午餐吧里抽着雪茄，享受那份惬意。

[15:14] So you're down at uh obviously German Street and you know down there enjoying that with Edward.
  所以你去了，呃，显然是德国街，你知道，在那里和爱德华一起享受。

[15:18] That's what it's for.
  这就是它的用途。

[15:19] Well, this is truly a life well-lived and it's one of the things I love so much about London, right, is the opportunity to, you know, really indulge oneself in the finest of quality
  嗯，这确实是充实的生活，也是我如此热爱伦敦的原因之一，对吧，就是有机会，你知道，真正地沉浸在最优质的享受中。

[15:28] Craftsmanship and tradition.
  精湛的工艺和传统。

[15:30] Of course, there's no greater articulation than that than here at Henry Pool.
  当然，在亨利·普尔这里，没有什么比这更棒的了。

[15:34] And I'm so excited and privileged to finally add some foundational really cornerstone garments to to my wardrobe.
  我非常兴奋和荣幸，终于能为我的衣橱增添一些基础的、真正重要的服装了。

[15:40] So, you know, Simon, thank you so much.
  所以，西蒙，非常感谢你。

[15:42] I can't wait to uh to put these on and wear them.
  我迫不及待地想把它们穿上。

[15:46] Tristan, of course, thank you for all your work.
  特里斯坦，当然，感谢你所有的工作。

[15:47] And uh I have to say nothing nothing really could have prepared me for just how, you know, comfortable and lightweight this garment is.
  我必须说，没有什么能让我为这件衣服的舒适和轻便做好准备。

[15:53] This is really fantastic.
  这真的很棒。

[15:54] It's a house special.
  这是本店的特色。

[15:55] Yeah.
  是的。

[15:55] Amazing.
  太棒了。

[15:55] Enjoy it.
  好好享受。

[15:57] Yeah. Thank you.
  是的，谢谢你。